Let's Talk Seacock

[Iron E]

and through hulls.
I try to exercise the seacocks about once a month. Yesterday, I crawled through the engine compartment and did my due diligence, then the head.
The pooper valve was stuck closed, and after watching a few hilarious videos and reading until my eyes glazed over, I sat on the floor of the head and applied some even and consistent pressure until I got that b**ch free. BOOYAH!

Anyways, my through hulls and seacocks have always looked pretty good, and I've only owned the boat for 2 years, so here's the question:

When do I replace them?
What are the best replacement options?

Thanks!

[tkeithlu]

You don't. They're bronze and exposed to salt water, so they need tender loving care.

A first step, as soon as you are out of the water, is to pull that one and seal the through hull itself, because it appears (bright green CuCO3) to be leaking. Then clean and grease the valve itself. They should last as long as the boat.

[Iron E]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

You don't. They're bronze and exposed to salt water, so they need tender loving care.

A first step, as soon as you are out of the water, is to pull that one and seal the through hull itself, because it appears (bright green CuCO3) to be leaking. Then clean and grease the valve itself. They should last as long as the boat.

Thanks, I'll do that. That one was the only one that had that bright blue/green appearance.

[Jammer]

Depends on whether you're a member of The Cult.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ll-267705.html


The "gold standard" has, traditionally, been flanged seacocks through-bolted to the hull, or attached using studs embedded in the hull. Bring money, and allow a couple of hours of quality time with epoxy and G10 board per seacock. Budget for some extra drill bits and hole saws, the G10 will dull them after a couple of cuts.

[MicHughV]

I've taken those things apart on a haulout only to discover pitting on the rotating barrel part and the main housing.
While the valve may appear to be closed from the outside, they may be leaking on the inside.

I have taken the barrel out and tried to " lap" it against it's bearing counterpart using lapping compound, but the pitting was too deep and there were too many of them.

After lapping both barrel and housing, I put it back together sans hose, so I could visually determine that they were leaking, much to my surprise.

It became a very expensive haulout.

Electrolysis appears to have been the culprit. All the thru-hulls are bonded to each other via cable to the engine and grounding plates.

Newer thru-hulls are made from marelon, a type of plastic. While I don't have any experience with them, I've told that they are a good replacement for the original bronze one's.

[Cheechako]

Cycle them every now and them. They will likely not need replacing for a very long time. Blue green on the outside is not an issue. It's a natural process with bronze.

[Bowdrie]

A good replacement device is the Groco "IBVF".
You get a proper flange that can be thru-bolted, and you install the ball valve of your choice.
Valve goes bad, no big deal, screw on new valve.

[thomm225]

My seacocks appear to be original or close to it.

This one may have been added at some point.

I've owned the boat for 12 years. It's a 1974 Bristol 27.

All seacocks are closed.

Mostly vintage bronze Wilcox Seacocks about 50 years old.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Iron E

and through hulls.
I try to exercise the seacocks about once a month. Yesterday, I crawled through the engine compartment and did my due diligence, then the head.
The pooper valve was stuck closed, and after watching a few hilarious videos and reading until my eyes glazed over, I sat on the floor of the head and applied some even and consistent pressure until I got that b**ch free. BOOYAH!

Anyways, my through hulls and seacocks have always looked pretty good, and I've only owned the boat for 2 years, so here's the question:

When do I replace them?
What are the best replacement options?

Thanks!

Those are not seacocks. They are ball valves and look like plated brass

Brass dezincifies in salt water and will not last nearly as long as bronze.
I'm surprised it looks as good as it does. If it takes on a pink hue (loss of zinc), get rid of it.

I don't know if I can attach an old article from a buddy on the issue in a pdf format but here goes ...

[Marathon1150]

"600 WOG indicates that they are brass."

Actually, 600 WOG indicates that the fitting is suitable for water, oil and gas at a maximum pressure rating of 600 psi. The rating can be applied to valves of any material after suitable testing. The best for seawater is titanium but bronze is pretty good. As noted, brass is not suitable for use in sea water but those markings do not specify the material, only the pressure rating.

[Iron E]

Thanks for all of the comments... much appreciated.

I'm most likely going to become a cult member when it comes time to replace these. I like the idea of the skin not being the weakest point, and for what these do, I'm not afraid to spend some money to sleep better.

As far as the comment "They are ball valves and look like plated brass", It's my understanding that what alloy it is just isn't possible to determine with certainty. I'll keep an eye out for the pink.

[Panope]

Another vote for a proper, flanged seacock.

This boat had just been hauled out of the water when this through hull was gently bumped with a foot.

The horror......

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Panope

Another vote for a proper, flanged seacock.

This boat had just been hauled out of the water when this through hull was gently bumped with a foot.

The horror......

I think the fact that they installed the seacocks in the roof was the bigger mistake .

[HopCar]

Originally Posted by Panope

Another vote for a proper, flanged seacock.

This boat had just been hauled out of the water when this through hull was gently bumped with a foot.

The horror......

I’ve seen that happen also. I always use a real seacock so you are not relying on the strength of the threaded thru-hull. I understand that ABYC approves that type of installation but it is the only through hull installation I’ve ever seen fail.

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

A good replacement device is the Groco "IBVF".

You get a proper flange that can be thru-bolted, and you install the ball valve of your choice.

Valve goes bad, no big deal, screw on new valve.

I replaced all below water line thruhulls with these. I epoxied the grocco backing plates with threaded inserts as well. Highly recommend if you replace yours to spend the extra $ for these.

I also have the ones needed for doing my cockpit & bilge thruhulls but it's low on the list for now.

I personally don't trust ball valves directly on thruhulls.....