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Krogensailor · 04-10-2015, 20:52

One concern if your laminating the sprit, is the thickness of the lumber used in the lams. Wood much thicker than 1/2 will swell and shrink enough to break the bond of the glue joint. I would lam many thin layers to fab the sprit. also in the video, I didn't see thickening agent in use. They probably were, but be sure to use some. Epoxy by itself will not bridge the inevitable gaps of the surface being bonded. Also think removable screws instead of clamps.

**minaret** · 04-10-2015, 22:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

I’ve just had another wobbly thrown at me, which wasn’t on the to-do list.
I have unearthed a ton of rot in the bowsprit, about 18” long, (see picture), which I’m sure can’t be repaired. So it’s a new bowsprit to be made—from somewhere.
I’ve never replaced one before, so I ask the following:
What is the best wood to make it from, (or have it made)?
Where might I get a 10 foot x 8” square log from?
The sprit tapers to 6” square at the crance iron.
Does anyone know where I might be able to get a quote to have it made, preferably fairly local?
I’m in Titusville Florida.

Wish I was closer so I could crank one out for ya. Whoever built that one did a few things wrong IMHO. Looks like it's built out of three laminations laid vertically. I would do a whole lot more laminations laid horizontally. I have had this argument a few times. I prefer to lam horizontally for a sprit because that way the center section of sprit which holds the cranse iron must spread it's rigging load through all laminations without relying on shear strength of the lam. It also makes the sprit stiffer (in theory) against side loads. I'd do 1/2" lams of spar grade Sitka Spruce, if possible. If not, VG Fir can be an OK substitute. It's just heavier and doesn't last as long. Also not anywhere near as nice to shape. Good luck! If you decide to do your own, ask questions and post pics here please. It's not too hard.

Snowpetrel · 05-10-2015, 03:58

Good tight Douglas fir does a good job. It doesn't seem to split at the glue joints even if laminated from big bulks. My folks masts are 4 slabs of 4x4 inch tight grained oregon Douglas fir. They've lasted now for about 25 years, with no signs of rot or cracking joints or checking. And the one piece solid Douglas fir bowsprit has been going much longer than that, at least 35 years.

I've been involved in the repair of a few rotten square rigged spars. Best get a new one, but if money and time is tight a serviceable job can be done by scarfing in New wood with epoxy.

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**minaret** · 05-10-2015, 07:34

Have to be careful with DF around here. Seen a number of batches of beautiful VG fir which rots in 5-10 years, sometimes less. There is speculation that this is wood from Mt. St. Helens. Reads dry, looks perfect, just doesn't last.

Jolly Roger · 05-10-2015, 11:27

Thanks for the PM Minaret, and I agree it’s probably impractical from the other side of the country.
I agree about laminations and would use both horizontal and vertical planks. That is, four planks 4” wide x 2” thick horizontally, on top of each other. then a vertical plank each side, 8” wide x 2” thick. This will give a 8” x 8” square at the Sampson posts. (see sketch).
I can also taper each plank myself with my table saw.
I’ve found a source for both Douglas Fir and Cypress wood. Which would be best?
JR.

Snowpetrel · 05-10-2015, 13:13

Looks like a nice plan, if you are going to laminate it up like that you could easily make some parts of it hollow to save a bit of weight, and make it easier to manhandle.

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**minaret** · 05-10-2015, 13:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

Thanks for the PM Minaret, and I agree it’s probably impractical from the other side of the country.
I agree about laminations and would use both horizontal and vertical planks. That is, four planks 4” wide x 2” thick horizontally, on top of each other. then a vertical plank each side, 8” wide x 2” thick. This will give a 8” x 8” square at the Sampson posts. (see sketch).
I can also taper each plank myself with my table saw.
I’ve found a source for both Douglas Fir and Cypress wood. Which would be best?
JR.

Perfect! I'd go with the DF. I'm sure you can knock it out.

Jolly Roger · 10-10-2015, 07:47

Thanks everyone for your input, but I now have a more urgent problem to contend with.
Three days ago I slipped on the boat and broke both bones in my left leg, and dislocated the ankle. I'm now in hospital with two titanium plates in my leg, thinking about other things than a bowsprit.
I'll report back some time when I eventually get it fixed.
JR.

**HappyMdRSailor** · 10-10-2015, 07:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

Thanks everyone for your input, but I now have a more urgent problem to contend with.
Three days ago I slipped on the boat and broke both bones in my left leg, and dislocated the ankle. I'm now in hospital with two titanium plates in my leg, thinking about other things than a bowsprit.
I'll report back some time when I eventually get it fixed.
JR.

Oh boy.... That sucks....

Wishing you a speedy recovery...

**minaret** · 10-10-2015, 08:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

Thanks everyone for your input, but I now have a more urgent problem to contend with.
Three days ago I slipped on the boat and broke both bones in my left leg, and dislocated the ankle. I'm now in hospital with two titanium plates in my leg, thinking about other things than a bowsprit.
I'll report back some time when I eventually get it fixed.
JR.

Really sux when life gets in the way. Condolences, and a speedy recovery.

goat · 10-10-2015, 08:46

Douglas Fir makes a great peg leg. Kidding, hope everything works out and you're back on the water soon.

goat

**minaret** · 10-10-2015, 08:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by goat

Douglas Fir makes a great peg leg. Kidding, hope everything works out and you're back on the water soon.

goat

I'm thinking DF is a mite heavy for a peg leg. Spruce for sure there! Or carbon fiber...

Cheechako · 10-10-2015, 08:57

Old growth fir would be great, Spruce would be great also. Spruce may be available in a "propeller blank". IIRC a prop blank is 8" x 8" x 10ft. It is light weight and strong. Softer than fir though so can be dimpled by anchors etc if not protected. Many wood masts are made from spruce.
If you go fir you want CVG (Clear Vertical Grain) preferably and it aint gonna be cheap now days. Be careful they don't try to give you Hemlock.. it's not the same.
Realistically, treated fir with few knots will probably work fine also

jamhass · 10-10-2015, 09:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snowpetrel

Looks like a nice plan, if you are going to laminate it up like that you could easily make some parts of it hollow to save a bit of weight, and make it easier to manhandle.

Your original was hollow and that is common practice. Couple of thoughts in hollow though:

1) IF water gets in, it can stay in and cause rot. This is OK on a mast or boom, since the end is open and gravity drains the inside.

2) Should you go hollow, strongly consider solid infills wherever fasteners are to be used.