So what's the deal with my two anchors?

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by tradrockrat

Thanks! That was going to be my follow up question. I thought 35 was way under weight for my boat and 45 was a minimum. I was planning on dumping the 35 unless somebody here came on with a good reason to keep it. I'll look into the newer anchor choices out there.

I'll refrain from asking the best way to start an anchor argument on a boating forum for now...lol

Before you make an anchor decision do yourself a favour and take a look at the series of video's of anchors setting done by Steve Goodwin of S/V Panope, time well spent when researching anchors.

[Searles]

Down in the land of OZ especially the southern end,you can't give away your fancy bits of tin plate ,ever heard of a trotman pick (anchor ) ,carry an 80 lb ,plus 300ft of 7/16 short link galv chain,best bower ,back up 55lb galv herreshoff on 60 ft 1/2 galv chain short link,300ft 1inch braid rode ,spare 55lb stock less plus chain and road to suit ,two spair rodes of 400ft ,yacht perry 48 cutter 18tons ,never dragged any where .An old navy type always said the anchor only held the chain down ,but horses for courses as the saying goes . Two anchors are set at about 60deg either side of the bow ,for a good nights sleep . Happy Sailing

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Searles

ever heard of a trotman pick (anchor )

It is a design I had not heard of before. A Google search shows a few photos (see below).

It looks like a modified Fishermans design. The first modification is a slightly greater fluke area. This is quite a common variation of a Fishermans used by a multitude of designs, for example the Northill to name but one. The second modification is more interesting. If you look at the photo closely you can see the fluke can rotate. One weakness of the Fishermans anchor is that it sets with one fluke sitting high above the seabed. In a wind or tide reversal there is a slight risk this can catch the chain if the boat passes directly over the anchor, and unfortunately with this design if that happens the anchor can occasionally become dislodged and fail to reset.

The pivoting fluke of the Trotman pick rotates the upward fluke down towards the shank as the anchor sets, creating a much lower profile and presumably reducing this risk. This would also allow for more compact storage. The drawback is like the Danforth and Fortress designs there is some risk of the pivoting mechanism jamming, for example with a stone, and this would prevent the anchor setting.

The anchoring conditions in South Australia are quite unusual. This has led to proliferation of anchors such as the Marsh that are very successful in the local market, but do have some limitations when used in different substrates. Nevertheless, the Fishermans anchor while a very old design can be very successful, especially in weed. The only caution is that it needs to be very large and heavy compared to other designs.

[tradrockrat]

Thank you all for the great responses and comments. I'm decided that I'll go with a modern bower anchor that would work in a storm as well as everyday use - I'm weird that way. I'll keep three anchors on board - not sure the exact types.

I'll get to researching WHICH modern anchor ASAP, as well as chain/rode/storage/etc.

[Lodesman]

I'm going to point out that once upon a time, when the CQR was "state of the art", peeps wanted to put the lightest functional anchor on the bow, cause they would have to haul it up by hand. The 35 was your "working" anchor, and the 45 was a "storm" anchor. https://www.lewmar.com/sites/default...ifications.pdf

One of the advantages of having 2 anchors at the bow, is if you med-moor, otherwise current thinking of larger new-gen anchor, more chain, and demountable spare is the way to go.

[Lodesman]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

everyone should have a Fortress

Everyone should have a Guardian - the Fortress is the blingier version. If it's going to be displayed like an objet d'art (like a stainless anchor) spend more for the nicely anodized Fortress; if it's sitting in a locker just in case, get the cheaper Guardian.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Lodesman

Everyone should have a Guardian - the Fortress is the blingier version. If it's going to be displayed like an objet d'art (like a stainless anchor) spend more for the nicely anodized Fortress; if it's sitting in a locker just in case, get the cheaper Guardian.

The difference is bigger than just bling though. The Fortress has an extra choice for fluke angle (said to work better in very soft mud) and I think the edges are sharper as well. And the sizing doesn't quite match up. A G-37 is between an FX-23 and FX-37 in size, for example.

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by tradrockrat

...... I'll keep three anchors on board - not sure the exact types. .......

That third anchor might be best selected by the nature of your cruising area. My third anchor was a stout grapnel for the rock during our summers in Maine, but just in some locations. A pair of sharp flukes as on the Fortress might be the choice if you find yourself in grass; however, I like to stay out of the grass so as not to disturb the ecology. Dismantling, folding and shapes also factor in for storage. 'no one best choice.

[joelhemington]

I think I'd keep the 35 as a kedge or backup and replace the 45 with the properly sized Mantus with 250' of good chain and a decent rode - don't forget the snubber.

[DHLyman]

The lighter anchor is easier to lower into the dinghy and dropped when a second anchor is needed due to a wind shift, the working anchor drags, or you simply want to sleep thru the night and not worry.

[bronze]

We have a Rocna 33kg on our Ingrid 38’ and quite happy with it while circumnavigating. Ditch both plows off the bow and replace with a Rocna thats equal in weight to both of them if your windlass is sufficient. You’ll sleep better at strange anchorages. Keep the better of the two CQR for a kedge, and get a huge Fortress for your Big Gun Storm Anchor.

[carlwk3c]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

No good reasons that I can think of. The 45 is marginal for a T37. The 35 would only be useful in light conditions. Maybe the previous owner used the 35 as a kind of kellet.

My Rafiki-37, which is very similar to the T37, also came with a 45 CQR. I used it for one season, and then swapped it out for a 55# Rocna. Much better bower choice.

If you want to keep the 45 CQR I'd pair it with a Danforth/Fortress. But the better option is to get one of the newer style scoop type of anchors (Rocna, Mantus, Spade, Manson, etc.).

Not sure where you get the idea that a 45 CQR is “marginal” for a Tayana 37. I sailed a Tayana 42 from CA, sea of Cortez, W coast of Cdntral America, through the canal, and up through the western Caribbean over 6 years with a 45 CQR on 5/16 HT chain, snd never dragged once, even in storms of 75+ with breakers rolling through an anchorage.
If it’s set properly, with adequate scope and proper snubber bridle yo reduce shock loading, the 45 CQR is a good anchor for either of the Tayanas mentioned, or boats with similar characteristics.
My current boat, a PS 34, has as its primary anchor
a 35 CQR on 5/16 HT chain. No dragging problems from the US to Grenada over the past several years.
I do carry a 65 pound Mantus as a storm anchor, and used that when we rode out Irma and Maria in Luperón, DR in the fall of 2017.

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by carlwk3c

Not sure where you get the idea that a 45 CQR is “marginal” for a Tayana 37. I sailed a Tayana 42 from CA, sea of Cortez, W coast of Cdntral America, through the canal, and up through the western Caribbean over 6 years with a 45 CQR on 5/16 HT chain, snd never dragged once, even in storms of 75+ with breakers rolling through an anchorage.
If it’s set properly, with adequate scope and proper snubber bridle yo reduce shock loading, the 45 CQR is a good anchor for either of the Tayanas mentioned, or boats with similar characteristics.
My current boat, a PS 34, has as its primary anchor
a 35 CQR on 5/16 HT chain. No dragging problems from the US to Grenada over the past several years.
I do carry a 65 pound Mantus as a storm anchor, and used that when we rode out Irma and Maria in Luperón, DR in the fall of 2017.

My assessment came as described: My Rafiki, which is very similar to a T37 (although a bit heavier), came to me with a CQR 45. I used it for a time, but found it to be marginal for my boat.

I didn't say it wouldn't work. With enough skill, effort and luck it would work just fine. But there are better choices now, like a Mantus.

[David Mathis]

The CQR doesn’t have good reviews and seems to have problems unless it’s a couple sizes larger than recommended. Several cruisers have commented that they have left the CQR home and switched to one of the modern anchors.
After using a Danforth and a Delta for several years, I tried a Bruce which worked well except in hard packed sand and soft gooey mud. Why a Bruce? It digs deeper rather than pull out when the wind shifts. As to the problem with penetrating the hard sand, sharpening the leading edges with an angle grinder solved that issue. For the gooey muck, I try to avoid it or use the Danforth.

[Hasbeen]

For what it is worth, I spent 6 years sailing my 40Ft Morgan Giles yacht on the Australian Great Barrier reef, & through the Pacific islands.


My main anchor was a 45Lb CQR, & a 30 Lb as a picnic anchor. I used up to 300 Ft of chain in heavy conditions. The 45 Lb CQR held me through a couple of cyclones, in up to 75 knots of wind, in sheltered water with not much fetch & little sea running, & in a few 30+ knot winds with quite some sea running.


The most difficultly I had with it was breaking it out of the bottom after one of these blows. In places like Rabaul, Bouganville & Honiara the boat hung on the 45 CQR for many months, without trouble.