Chain Stopper Install

[Paul L]

Use a sealant then. 5200 is just too much of a pain to remove -- even if it is only stuck to one side. It is a major adhesive where you only need seal or barrier.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Epoxy's likely to be too brittle. A field expedient solution's to cut a piece out of a 2-liter soda bottle, or similar.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by Paul L

...5200 is only for permanent installations...

Not really. It is very easy to remove a fitting bedded in 5200 by driving a thin putty knife under it.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Not really. It is very easy to remove a fitting bedded in 5200 by driving a thin putty knife under it.

I've also used a wire to saw under a fitting. There are lots of places on a boat where you can't get a putty knife or wire into. For me 5200 is for permanent fittings where a very strong glue is needed.

[a64pilot]

Once cured, it has no adhesive properties, a possible issue with a plastic layer is its nearly frictionless and would allow the stopper to "work" or move slightly, would that load the fasteners and or loose the epoxy they are set in? I don't know.
I think I'll go with the 5200 as I have it, and it would be easy to do, and it ought to work.

[a64pilot]

Once cured, it has no adhesive properties, a possible issue with a plastic layer is its nearly frictionless and would allow the stopper to "work" or move slightly, would that load the fasteners and or loose the epoxy they are set in? I don't know.
I think I'll go with the 5200 as I have it, and it would be easy to do, and it ought to work.

[Sailmonkey]

I think the bonding issue with 5200 in this instance is an overhype of the devils glue properties. On beach cats I've bedded lots of stainless fasteners to the aluminum mast with 5200 as an isolator, removal is no problem when removal time is needed. I've found that the bond releases from the aluminum but stays (sort of) on the stainless.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I think the bonding issue with 5200 in this instance is an overhype of the devils glue properties. On beach cats I've bedded lots of stainless fasteners to the aluminum mast with 5200 as an isolator, removal is no problem when removal time is needed. I've found that the bond releases from the aluminum but stays (sort of) on the stainless.

If 5200 comes off easily then it was a complete failure as a permanent adhesive.

[Terra Nova]

I've removed 100's of fittings which had been bedded in 5200. It simply isn't a problem.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Paul L

Not a good application for 5200. Someday this will need to come off and they will be cursing you heavily for gluing this down with the evil 5200. 5200 is only for permanent installations -- think keels.
Since you just need insulation, just cut a gasket from something like silicon rubber and place under the chainstopper. That's what's under mine.

No problem at all with metal to metal. Readily removable when I've done it. Usually easy with metal to gel coat too to get apart. The 5200 will stick to the gel side though.

[Paul L]

OK, I you've changed my mind about 5200. I'm going to go buy stock in 3M and promote it for all boat uses. Hopefully the promotion won't cross the SEC rules.

[a64pilot]

I think 5200 is mainly meant to be a sealant, however it does have adhesive properties, but on nonporus metal, especially on metal that is out in the open and you can get the edge of a screwdriver under it, or knock a putty knife under it, then it can be removed.
I use 5200 to glue in blocks of wood to my hull that I can then put a screw in to mount something, and in that application I feel sure if I tried to remove it, I would end up with 5200 with a thin piece of wood attached to it. It is a very strong adhesive, the two halves of my boat are held together with it

[Paul L]

3M markets it as

Very high strength adhesive sealant with proven Marine performance,
and long open time in hot and humid conditions
• Above/below water lines with watertight bonds

3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200
• An exceptionally strong, high performance polyurethane
• Creates extremely strong bonds, above and below
the waterline
• Maintains its flexibility, absorbing shocks, vibrations,
swelling, shrinking and structural movements
• Tack free in 24-48 hours; cures in
5-7 days without shrinking
• Ideal for large surface-area applications
requiring long open times

5200, 5200 FC,
590
PERMANENT

[Cheechako]

When finishing the interior of my first build I had a problem. Where you enter the 1/4 berth, the fiberglass above the berth (backside of the cockpit seating fiberglass, where it turns nearly 90 degrees and becomes the bulkhead/backrest one side of the companionway ) needed a trim piece. I made a big trim piece of 3/4 teak board the was decoratively routed etc. As the radiused surface was not very flat etc, I used a lot of 5200 to hold it in place. The whole installation was premature and eventually I needed to take it off and start over to properly trim out the 1/4 berth overhaed. (one learning curve in boat building is what order to do it in!) When I tried to remove that trim piece it was held so strongly that I had to break the 3/4" teak to take it off in pieces. I think with further experience I have today of heat and or knifing the 5200 I could have got it off. But man... it was STUCK!

[Terra Nova]

In a nutshell, 5200 is virtually the perfect choice to bed a chain stopper, which is something you don't want moving around, and is a piece that does not require frequent removal and replacement.

Paul--don't get too hung up on the terms: adhesive and permanent. Permanent, in this case, is a relative term.