Using pipe cutter on bimini tubing

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by garyfdl

A 'hardware store' cutter is made for cutting copper. It might work for one or two cuts on SS, but that's about it, then you will have to replace the cutting wheel. You really need a cutter that will handle stainless.

Mine didn't and I now need to go and buy another copper pipe cutter after the roller chipped

I wanted revenge so used the angle grinder. Job done

[moseriw]

Pipe cutters usually cut copper tubes Use an angle grinder.

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Mine didn't and I now need to go and buy another copper pipe cutter after the roller chipped

You might want to check to see if you can get a replacement cutting wheel, rather than replace the whole thing.

[dlane1181]

What’s wrong with a hacksaw?
Also, I’ve had great success cutting stainless steel with a Dremmel. I suppose it’s akin to a grinder only smaller scale, but also less noise and mess.

[glcalahan]

Hello

I bought a decent pipe cutter and made my SS 2 bow frame with 3 handles (port/stb & long aft handles) and braces. My pipe cutter is still as sharpe as new.

[Jammer]

I cut the supports for my bimini with a cheap tubing cutter.


It took more than the usual amount of care to be sure that the wheel tracked straight and didn't cut a spiral, and it took a well-chosen application of force. I am sure I was close to breaking the wheel, but I made it work.


It was much more convenient than a hacksaw or cutoff wheel, especially since I was doing it aboard.

[stormalong]

I have used pipe cutters made for copper on stainless. The trick is to go slow. Tighten it up very slowly - IOW make many light passes.. For a few cuts it works fine. If you have a lot of cuts to make it is not so good. The advantage is a smooth cut. Stainless is a relatively soft steel but it work hardens if it gets hot.

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Do you have a chop saw? I've dealt with this problem by substituting a composition cut-off blade for the usual toothed blade. Then you can have a clean cut at whatever angle you want.

That's how I do it, metal cutting blade on the chop saw or table saw depending on the situation. I've cut as heavy as 1/2" mild steel that way. It's slow and uses up the blades, but it works. Just clean out all the sawdust first or you'll start a fire.

[glcalahan]

This also my advice. It is not about cutting with strength. Slow turns and a SLIGHT tightening between turns saves wheel and makes a better cut.

[salfarina]

Home Depot has pipe cutters for stainless steel tubing. Not sure of the brand but you can YouTube stainless steel pipe cutters. Video will show you the brand, cutter and a demonstration. Home Depot sells that brand for under $30.00.

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by dlane1181

What’s wrong with a hacksaw?

For most people? Their inability to make a clean, square cut. It's also painfully slow.

[Muaddib1116]

Without a pipe cutting guide, it's hard to make a really square cut, and I'm trying to get very precise lengths. I'll give the pipe cutter a try.

[StoneCrab]

A pipe cutter exerts enough pressure on the tip of the cutting wheel to crease the metal wall of the tube or pipe. In copper or soft steel, this works reasonably well. Stainless steel is much harder and less likely to be cut by that method. A disadvantage of the cutting wheel is that it deforms the end of the pipe, curling it inward.

Cutoff wheels are another option but I don't like the grit and sparking metal that comes off of the wheel.

My preference is to use a metal cutting band saw. My favorite is a big one in my shop. Second in line is a Milwaukee corded tool which can handle bigger pipe, but for on board, you can't beat this one:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18...P590/309389020

Use a file edge to create a flat spot right on your line before starting the cut. This will keep the blade from skidding sideways if you aren't 100% lined up. The secret for using a bandsaw is to have blades that are made for the thickness and type of material that you will be cutting. If you don't find anything at the big box stores, go to a professional tool supply. If they don't have what you need in stock, they can make them up on the demand from bulk rolls, which they can cut and spot weld while you wait.

The thinner the wall of the tubing that you will be cutting, the more teeth you need to have on the blade. The shape and composition of the blade needs to be matched to the material to be cut. If you get the right blade, it will last you through your project. If you settle for what is handy, you'll be back to the grinder to finish the project after the teeth break off or the blade snaps.

[Skipper Lee]

Whenever I had Marine turnaround or new build aluminum boat project I and most other welders that I worked with used old abrasive chop saw blades (diameter worn down smaller) or new 6 inch cutoff blades on our cheapest old Skill-saw to chop through stainless tubes or plate.
Its pretty easy to use in position and cuts straight, true and clean. depending on your Skill-saw we sometimes needed an arbor adaptor if the center hole sizing didn't match, Pretty sure you can get some plastic ones at Home Depot if needed and some chop saw blades come with an arbor adaptor.
Careful when aluminum chopping as the aluminum will plug the pores of the abrasive discs and could easily fracture or explode the disc. The alum gets in the pores and heat expands the alum and your Oh Sh!t situation will follow. For aluminum we used a Skill-saw and cheap normal wood blades. There is actually a wax for that that you rub on the saw blade to lube it. if you have lots of work to do
This works great but wear a long sleeve and get a facemask as the alum chips flying off are basically bullets. In fact get a facemask for SS as well!

Both scenarios produced great clean results.
Naturally when in a fab shop we had alternative equipment.
Strange perhaps but in 50 years on jobsites I never used a tubing cutter for anything but copper and black pipe.

Chop Chop.

[Skipper Lee]

When not in position (meaning you have the pipes in lengths and not all welded together already) you can use a wood chop-saw with a abrasive blade or of course a metal chop-saw, with either of those your cutting really square/true.

Remember cheap wood blade for Alum and abrasive blade for SS.