How to fix my hatchboard. I broke off one edge.

[esarratt]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

They must be confused, because it is automatically dispensed in correct ratio from the syringe.

Yep. It does. But, when you read the directions it gives the option of by volume and by weight so I asked the tech support guy for specifics. He said that by weight was best.

I'll use our digital kitchen scale.

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by Oeanda

I’d be more inclined to put through-dowels in from the end rather than fiddling around with a jig for blind dowels, which may do more harm than good. Many ways to skin the cat though.

That's the way I'd do it. Clamp the assembly together then drill in from the outside edge for the dowels. Disassemble, glue it up and reassemble. Maybe put dowels in the other side to beef up that joint too.

[Jim Cate]

The discussion of repair methods has been educational for me, so thanks to all.

One thing keeps popping up in my mind: if simply dropping the board caused it to break, its ability to stand up to a wave strike (etc) seems dubious, no matter how good the repair. Hatch boards can be subjected to serious stresses and are essential in keeping water on the outside.

Jim

[5BTM]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

The discussion of repair methods has been educational for me, so thanks to all.

One thing keeps popping up in my mind: if simply dropping the board caused it to break, its ability to stand up to a wave strike (etc) seems dubious, no matter how good the repair. Hatch boards can be subjected to serious stresses and are essential in keeping water on the outside.

Jim

The piece that broke off does not have to that wide.
It is more for fashion than strength. A quarter inch wide strip would have been sufficient to cover the edge of the board.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by esarratt

Yep. It does. But, when you read the directions it gives the option of by volume and by weight so I asked the tech support guy for specifics. He said that by weight was best.

I'll use our digital kitchen scale.

The syringe has two tubes with each part in it’s own tube, but the plungers are mechanically linked. You can’t just get one part out for weighing it.

Go with the flow, not against it. Just dispense enough from the syringe, mix it well and glue it up. That is how the product is designed to be used. Scales are nice for when the two parts come in separate containers.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

The syringe has two tubes with each part in it’s own tube, but the plungers are mechanically linked. You can’t just get one part out for weighing it.

Go with the flow, not against it. Just dispense enough from the syringe, mix it well and glue it up. That is how the product is designed to be used. Scales are nice for when the two parts come in separate containers.

Agree, but have to ask, is the product an adhesive or a resin, in my experience adhesives are formulated to be thicker with some gap filling ability and normally supplied in individual containers whereas resins are usually thinner and sometimes supplied as you describe.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Agree, but have to ask, is the product an adhesive or a resin, in my experience adhesives are formulated to be thicker with some gap filling ability and normally supplied in individual containers whereas resins are usually thinner and sometimes supplied as you describe.

The 655 G/flex is a thickened epoxy adhesive. The smallest packaging is a double syringe, like many epoxy adhesives are sold in big box stores, like from Lock-tite etc.

I use the next size packaging up, which is two tubes which you dispense separately. Even these I don’t weigh, just squeeze out equal length beads, then mix and use.

The 650 G/flex is an un-thickened, liquid epoxy adhesive. It’s the same as the 655 before they add a thickening filler. Which one you must use depends on what you are gluing, how much gap filling properties you need. If you use the 650, you can add fillers yourself.

I normally use the base 205 resin and mix in fillers as I need, often two different ones in the same batch, like microfibers plus cabosil.

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

The discussion of repair methods has been educational for me, so thanks to all.

One thing keeps popping up in my mind: if simply dropping the board caused it to break, its ability to stand up to a wave strike (etc) seems dubious, no matter how good the repair. Hatch boards can be subjected to serious stresses and are essential in keeping water on the outside.

Jim

Valid point. I assume the board fits into a track of some sort, and if the edge trim pieces (the one that broke off) are wider than the track, then the solid inner part is unsupported by the track. The trim pieces take all the stress. In that case it might be better to remake all the boards without edge trim and coat well with epoxy to prevent water intrusion. Or apply a really narrow edge trim to cover the end grain.

[Spot]

Fresh dados both pieces, fresh spline, normal epoxy or Titebond 3. Should last the 3 or 4 years that it would take me to get to making new ones... I like the acrylic idea too.



Picture from table-saw-guide dot com

[JBsurfin]

Originally Posted by mvweebles

There are a few options - as prev5TYcQgZJious post states, dowels work but i could never get them aligned perfectky. Biscuit cutters are better but you probably don't want to buy one for a single project.

I would probably just glue-screw it - the slightly uneven edge will align itself just fine (might help for dowels too). Get some long #6 stainless panhead sheet metal screws. Pre-drill three holes and countersink the heads. Glue with Titebond II wood glue. Fill the countersink holes and you're done.

https://www.mcmaster.com/92470A162

Check out a tool rental , like home depot.

[Bowdrie]

Biscuits work fine for joining smooth/square-edged parts, and with some "fixture(s)" can do angled work.
But they are not so great when working with split/uneven/jagged edges, and they're not particularly strong.
Biscuits are first and foremost an alignment tool for fast cabinet assembly work.
As I said earlier, glue parts together first, then add screws or dowels.
Zero chance of any misalignment.

[Rightbrainer]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

Biscuits work fine for joining smooth/square-edged parts, and with some "fixture(s)" can do angled work.
But they are not so great when working with split/uneven/jagged edges, and they're not particularly strong.
Biscuits are first and foremost an alignment tool for fast cabinet assembly work.
As I said earlier, glue parts together first, then add screws or dowels.
Zero chance of any misalignment.

+1 for glue then dowel. The epoxy will be stronger than the wood, but the cross grain dowels will be stronger than the long grain edge trim. Do both sides and match the wood species if at all possible. Once you have the drill bit chucked, you might as well dowel the other hatch boards, too.

If your companionway is tapered, you could make a new top board without the weak edge trim and demote the other boards and eliminate the trim on all the drop boards.

[s/v Jedi]

Items like brass or stainless rods that I mentioned earlier are very easy to source nowadays. Even aluminum, polycarbonate, acrylic etc. is all available with a mouse click and free next day delivery

https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-inches.../dp/B09TDCB7FT

[SuW]

Originally Posted by esarratt

Good point. I actually melted the inside of my car with some acetone once. I'll use a chip brush.

Also you will find so-called "acid brushes" in most hardware stores. Cheap and they can be re-used. We store a pack of them in our epoxy supplies box.

We usually use a dry rag to dab off any residue before the acetone dries, I'm not sure if that's actually useful...

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by SuW

We usually use a dry rag to dab off any residue before the acetone dries, I'm not sure if that's actually useful...

It should be. If the acetone lifts any oil or anything and you just let it dry, the oil is still there. Wipe it off and it's now in the rag. But you have to be really quick, acetone dries fast.