What interior primer should I buy?

[darc427]

I’m about to paint the interior cabinets/closets/underneath the settee etc in my 45’ Fuji. What specific primer do I buy? My plan is to paint with oil based Rust-oleum. Thanks everyone….

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by darc427

I’m about to paint the interior cabinets/closets/underneath the settee etc in my 45’ Fuji. What specific primer do I buy? My plan is to paint with oil based Rust-oleum. Thanks everyone….

Good timing, I did months of testing last year!

I tried many paint systems, from cheap to expensive and this is what came out on top regardless of price… and it’s about the least costly

Coat 1: Totalboat topside primer in white. Rolled without tipping using a 4” high density foam mini roller. No thinning.
Overnight cure, then sand with 320 grit, vacuum, brush, denatured alcohol wipe etc.

Coat 2: Rustoleum oil based Satin White. Rolled without tipping exactly like coat 1. You do see bubbles but they disappear by themselves. Also, sanding with 320 again after overnight cure but strictly by hand, no machine.
I keep cleaning this with alcohol until all dust is gone and use a tack cloth just before the final coat.

Coat 3: Rustoleum oil based Satin White with 5% Flood Penetrol. Rolling without tipping again.

I use this for ceiling panels as well as a ceiling-mounted console for switch and breaker panels, see attachment

[darc427]

Thanks S/V Jedi, that’s exactly what is was looking for! That pic looks great. One more question for you then, any favorite fairing compound?

[Chotu]

That’s some good info, Jedi.

Did you test Killz, Zinsser, etc?

I may have spelled those brand names incorrectly.

[Benz]

My favorite one-part primer is from George Kirby Paint Company in New Bedford. It's the same as the Interlux one part, but more affordable.
And while more pricy, Kirby's paint is just like Rust-oleum, but comes in many more colors, and he'll mix custom colors for you.
For white or black, you can't beat Rust-oleum on price, but for colors, I go to Kirby's.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by darc427

Thanks S/V Jedi, that’s exactly what is was looking for! That pic looks great. One more question for you then, any favorite fairing compound?

I use TotalFair from TotalBoat… mainly because of free shipping. Before I used AwlFair, which is the product that TotalFair is the knockoff for.

But even Bondo would do.

Originally Posted by Chotu

That’s some good info, Jedi.

Did you test Killz, Zinsser, etc?

I may have spelled those brand names incorrectly.

Yes, they are the moisture blocking primers. They use shellac iirc. I tested Killz and I sprayed it. I wasn’t impressed, it is too soft and slow drying.

My #1 favorite primer is Awlgrip 545 but it is way overkill for interior and very poisonous to work with. I settled on the TotalBoat topside primer because it is simple 1-part, cures quickly, sands nice, doesn’t need tipping after rolling etc.

Originally Posted by Benz

My favorite one-part primer is from George Kirby Paint Company in New Bedford. It's the same as the Interlux one part, but more affordable.
And while more pricy, Kirby's paint is just like Rust-oleum, but comes in many more colors, and he'll mix custom colors for you.
For white or black, you can't beat Rust-oleum on price, but for colors, I go to Kirby's.

Here you find the available colors for Rustoleum oil based paint. Even for Satin sheen, which is hard to find for many brands, there are 5 colors.

They also have a tint base, which can be used for mixing any custom color.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...tective-enamel

Edit: the Interlux I tested as well: you need to buy a flattening agent for semi gloss or satin and they say it’s hard to work with. I tested with gloss and it worked great but was full of bubbles so it requires tipping after rolling. These paints are Polyurethane based, while Rustoleum is a modified Alkyd resin.

[Benz]

^^^thanks for the link @s/v jedi

Best thing about Rustoleum is the price for what's really an easy to use and pretty sturdy paint.

[rslifkin]

Last interior paint work I did was Interlux pre-kote primer topcoated with Brightside (also a modified Alkyd paint like the above mentioned Rustoleum). For Brightside, with or without flattening agent (they don't sell a pre-mixed semi-gloss or satin), I've always brushed it on, not rolled. No experience on whether bubbles sort themselves out with rolling or if tipping is needed. But brush strokes level out quite nicely even on vertical surfaces (just don't put it on too thick or you get runs).

[dkenny64]

not shellac. wood for wood inside. not so much on a boat.

rustoluem paint and primer.
2 parts might be better but harder to touch up.



I've painted my hull and topside with rustoleum paint. 3yrs and doing well.
we're planning on painting the interior( visible and no seen) with the same.
cheap and easy to use
-dkenny64

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

Last interior paint work I did was Interlux pre-kote primer topcoated with Brightside (also a modified Alkyd paint like the above mentioned Rustoleum). For Brightside, with or without flattening agent (they don't sell a pre-mixed semi-gloss or satin), I've always brushed it on, not rolled. No experience on whether bubbles sort themselves out with rolling or if tipping is needed. But brush strokes level out quite nicely even on vertical surfaces (just don't put it on too thick or you get runs).

Brightside was one of the paints I tested, see above. It is a Polyurethane, not a modified Alkyd. The hassle and cost of using a flattening agent and the requirement for tipping after rolling were the no-go for me. If I had wanted a high gloss finish, it would rise the charts significantly.
I believe Pettit has a Polyurethane in satin sheen, but I was unable to source it at the time (Covid lockdown).

Originally Posted by dkenny64

not shellac. wood for wood inside. not so much on a boat.

rustoluem paint and primer.
2 parts might be better but harder to touch up.

I've painted my hull and topside with rustoleum paint. 3yrs and doing well.
we're planning on painting the interior( visible and no seen) with the same.
cheap and easy to use
-dkenny64

Yes, I mixed them up. The Zinssner is the shellac based primer and Kilz claims to give equal performance without using shellac. I have nothing against shellac, but didn’t test Zinssner BIN. The Kilz I won’t use again.

[dkenny64]

zinsser has 2 types of primer. one is shellac based the other is not.
I don't care for kilz primers at all.
just my opinion.


-dkenny64

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by dkenny64

zinsser has 2 types of primer. one is shellac based the other is not.
I don't care for kilz primers at all.
just my opinion.

-dkenny64

Yes, I heard good things about Kilz so I used it to spray ceiling and wall panelling with an airless sprayer and I wasn’t impressed. I’m sure it will block stains and it’s performing just fine under the Behr paint I sprayed over it, but I didn’t like how it sprayed and how long it took to cure. The finish wasn’t great either.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Brightside was one of the paints I tested, see above. It is a Polyurethane, not a modified Alkyd.

I can't seem to find a definitive answer on it, but while Interlux calls Brightside a Polyurethane, I've found quite a few mentions online that it's not a true poly, but primarily a modified alkyd possibly with some polyeurethane in it. Of course, it seems like there's no definite credible source on this unless someone with enough experience in paint chemistry wants to decipher the SDS.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

I can't seem to find a definitive answer on it, but while Interlux calls Brightside a Polyurethane, I've found quite a few mentions online that it's not a true poly, but primarily a modified alkyd possibly with some polyeurethane in it. Of course, it seems like there's no definite credible source on this unless someone with enough experience in paint chemistry wants to decipher the SDS.

I think we can believe the manufacturer for the time being… it’s a polyurethane