Spare parts for outboard powered catamaran engines

[Sparx]

A couple days ago while throttling back as we circled to anchor, one of the two Yamaha T9.9 outboards that power my catamaran suddenly stopped. The engine would not restart. After setting anchor I got busy with diagnosing and came to believe the engine was flooding. With the hypothesis that some particle was not allowing the needle valve to re-seat I set to cleaning the carburetor. While at it spark plugs and fuel filters also got replaced. The engine purred back to life starting easier and running smoother than before. I was glad to have onboard the tools and parts to do this work.

So i thought I would share the list of outboard spares I carry as way if helping and comparing with other outboard powered catamarans. Please reply with your additions.

Spare parts list:

Carburetor cleaner
Teflon lubricant for control cables
Oil for next oil change (every 100 hours)
Spare Fuel hose of length to feed either engine from either fuel tank, including fittings and fuel bulb.
Spare spark plugs
Spare internal fuel filters
Spare external fuel filters
Spare water pump kit
Manual start rope kit
Spare fuse for ignition moduleI
Spare cotter pins for propellers

I am now adding a carb rebuild kit with all the gaskets as a precaution.
.

[Richard Harper]

I carried a spare oil fill plug for 11 years and finally dropped one overboard last week.
Also spare thermostat and gasket.
Spare zinks

Spare solenoid since they only seem to last a few years.
Spare CDI because they are very sensitive to lightning.

[Tin Tin]

I carried a whole new carburetor (and I used it). Swapout the dud and you can take you time fixing the old one.

Lube for both gear case and engine
Engine start spray
Fuel Tank conditioner/cleaner
Spare propeller

[Tupaia]

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

I carried a whole new carburetor (and I used it). Swapout the dud and you can take you time fixing the old one.

Lube for both gear case and engine
Engine start spray
Fuel Tank conditioner/cleaner
Spare propeller

+1 for the spare carb.



+ spare impeller

[Siberian Sea]

Extra Diesel engine for installation when the outboards fail

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by Sparx

Spare parts list:

Spare Fuel hose of length to feed either engine from either fuel tank, including fittings and fuel bulb.
Spare spark plugs
Spare internal fuel filters
Spare external fuel filters
Spare water pump kit
Manual start rope kit
Spare fuse for ignition module
Spare cotter pins for propellers
Proper sized spark plug wrench
Spare water pump impellor
Carb gasket kit
Lower unit gear lube
White Teflon grease
SPARE PROPELLER
Two gallon spare tank (even a red plastic jerry can will do in the event that you lose or break you main tank

I bought two extra spark plus when I last (thought) I needed them, only to find I already had two new spares. Now I have four.

[tkeithlu]

Tin Tin has it. Carbs for small outboards cost about $20 if you can figure out who actually makes them for the outboard manufacturer.

[Chotu]

What about for fuel injected outboards ?

That’s all I own

[Cheechako]

Spare ignition module.

[Sparx]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Tin Tin has it. Carbs for small outboards cost about $20 if you can figure out who actually makes them for the outboard manufacturer.

I found some aftermarket carbs that have features i like better than OEM that I was thinking of trying, about half the price of Yamaha OEM parts.

[alansmith]

I’m going to give you the best tip there is: you need to install the prefilter external housing that diesels use to filter the fuel before it gets to the outboard. Most of your problems with outboards start from particles in the fuel you buy. If you filter that out before it even gets to the outboard you will save yourself a huge headache.

When I was down in Mexico last February I sold my 10 hp tohatsu to a skipper whose 10 hp Yamaha finally gave up the ghost. I never had an issue with the tohatsu. He sailed down the Sea of Cortez and over to mainland Mexico. He told me later that he had to rebuild the carb 6 times due to fuel problems.

When I get back down there I will slap my new 10 hp EFI Suzuki on my trimaran. Which eliminates the carb. But I will also put the fuel strainer on before the engine. It can be checked visually and unscrewed for replacement of filters that are a thousand percent bigger than the small filters under the cowling.

You can’t afford to lose an engine at the wrong time.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by alansmith

I’m going to give you the best tip there is: you need to install the prefilter external housing that diesels use to filter the fuel before it gets to the outboard. Most of your problems with outboards start from particles in the fuel you buy. If you filter that out before it even gets to the outboard you will save yourself a huge headache.

When I was down in Mexico last February I sold my 10 hp tohatsu to a skipper whose 10 hp Yamaha finally gave up the ghost. I never had an issue with the tohatsu. He sailed down the Sea of Cortez and over to mainland Mexico. He told me later that he had to rebuild the carb 6 times due to fuel problems.

When I get back down there I will slap my new 10 hp EFI Suzuki on my trimaran. Which eliminates the carb. But I will also put the fuel strainer on before the engine. It can be checked visually and unscrewed for replacement of filters that are a thousand percent bigger than the small filters under the cowling.

You can’t afford to lose an engine at the wrong time.

This. Exactly.

I have Racor fuel water separators and pre filtration just like a diesel.

Other than an awful company delivering straight water to my tank and destroying the injectors on both my engines the day it was launched, I’ve had zero problems.

Note: straight water is even worse for fuel injected outboards than it is for carburetor models.

[Sparx]

I too have the Racor prefilters, thinking like you that they were great protection. But in my case a carburetor still became fouled.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Sparx

I too have the Racor prefilters, thinking like you that they were great protection. But in my case a carburetor still became fouled.

That stinks. Sorry that happened.

There is the matter of old gas sitting in carbs. No matter how pure the gasoline is, that causes issues.

It’s the reason I only have fuel injected outboards. A pair of them for main propulsion and one for the dinghy now.

[keyway]

Yep. All that. I do carry a spare carb and a small tool kit with the right sockets and extensions that I need just for that job. After swapping out carbs several times I can do it in about 30 minutes sitting on the mooring. I try to stay away from any ethanol in the gas. I leave the carb wet keep the file tanks full and dry. I use a larger recor but do carry a spare hose just in case. I can buy a new carb for around 100.$a full rebuild with jets and all is about 70.$. When I swap them I dont really need to rebuild it just give it a good soaking in a vat off carb cleaner then reassemble it. I don’t have much luck with the spray. Last time I had trouble it was a tiny grain of sand in the main jet. Must have picked it up on the end of the fuel line. Also listen to the engine closely sometimes that rough idle is telling you something. Happy motoring