Moving anchor roller on a cat

[Snowgoose35]

My 50 foot cat has the bow roller at the front on the crossbeam - its a 32kg Rocna on a stainless roller that maybe weights 20kg

I'm thinking about moving it back behind the tramps (much like modern Lagoons etc) to the front of the hard deck. This will move it back about 7 feet from the bow. So there will be less weight on the very front of the boat and it means I can put a short bow prodder in the original place of the roller.

As far as I can figure it should mean a bit less hobbyhorsing and a slightly more bows up ride

Are there any disadvantages to this plan? Any gains I've not thought of?

[Sparx]

Work through how you will get the anchor bridle on/off. And retrieve it when it was accidentally dropped, it is gonna happen.

Moving the anchor roller aft will increase the boat tending to sway at anchor This can be avoided by keeping the bridles connected to the boat as far forward as possible.

Also consider the process of raising anchor. Will the boat sway and rub the anchor chain under the hull?

None of these are reasons to not move the anchor aft. Just consequences to consider.

I have friends who hate the aft anchor location on their Leopard 46, for the reasons above.

I definitely understand wanting to get a prodder up front.

[Tupaia]

There are pros and cons as usual.

Pros, weight more central. Less movement and better view point when deploying and lifting. Tramp is kept clear. Better rotational control with 2 engines when unthreading the chain from underwater obstructions. Not having to do acrobatics over the forward beam to clear debris from the anchor. Puts less stress on the forward beam both at anchor and sailing in heavy weather.

Cons, the bridle is under the tramp, so you need sufficient access. Bridle requires a secure chain hook. Possible fouling of the chain on the hull(s) so only suitable for a relatively wide cat. More difficult to raise if not under power or with only one engine.

[Tin Tin]

Most common complaint we hear from Leopard and FP owners is the rubbing of the chain on the hull when retrieving or deploying in adverse conditions, at best it removes anti-foul paint, at worst it cuts into the gel coat.

[ozsailer]

Gday Snowgoose
I really don't beleive by moving you anchor as described is going to make one little bit of difference to anything other than you wallet. Without seeing you set up, I cant comment on the placement of the prodder.


Greg H
Lagoon 440
Oz

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by Snowgoose35

My 50 foot cat has the bow roller at the front on the crossbeam - its a 32kg Rocna on a stainless roller that maybe weights 20kg

I'm thinking about moving it back behind the tramps (much like modern Lagoons etc) to the front of the hard deck. This will move it back about 7 feet from the bow. So there will be less weight on the very front of the boat and it means I can put a short bow prodder in the original place of the roller.

As far as I can figure it should mean a bit less hobbyhorsing and a slightly more bows up ride

Are there any disadvantages to this plan? Any gains I've not thought of?

A picture of your current set up would be helpful for suggestions. Also, what is the most important reason - is it to be able to mount a bow pole, or is it to move the weight aft? With a 50 foot cat I can’t imagine the small change in weight would decrease hobby horsing nor lift your bows.

To make room for a bow pole the simplest might be to move the roller to the side just enough to make room for a pole. Depending on the position of your windlass that may still be OK for chain alignment.

Alternatively, if you have a solid deck or gangway leading to your front beam, is to move the bow roller assembly behind the front beam. This moves the anchor aft 2 or 3 feet, clears the front beam for a bow pole, and avoids the issues of aft mounted rollers (the worst of which is the hull rubbing). It may need some additional fabrication to support the anchor in that position.

[smj]

If the anchor roller is centered on the crossbeam how do you raise the anchor without fouling the chain on either roller furler or forestay?

[Zzmeyer]

Interestingly, just yesterday, a member of the FP Saona 47 facebook group asked how to move the anchor from behind the tramp to the crossbar. Their complaint is that twice they needed access to the rode that they couldn't reach from the current position. The bridle on FP are attached to the bow so there is no more sailing at anchor than boats that launch from the bow with a bridle. Attaching the bridle is easy, but as previously said you need to make sure it fits over the bow roller while not getting caught up.

[Perfect Ride]

Originally Posted by Snowgoose35

As far as I can figure it should mean a bit less hobbyhorsing and a slightly more bows up ride

Are there any disadvantages to this plan? Any gains I've not thought of?

Hobbyhorseing: shifting other weight on the boat will offer more flexibility and I would start there to see what results you see in those shifts in weight.


Disadvantages: Concur with disadvantages already listed. Of the many thousands of anchors we have retrieved on our cat, the vast majority did not need immediate access to the roller area. Having said that, I have pulled up 20' of old pipe, 4' diameter volcanic rocks and significant plant life that needed access to the anchor / chain to dislodge. Also I am unsure how much more difficult it would be to drop an anchor in a small sand area sweet spot with the visability cut in half by the bridge deck. Its always the adverse conditions that test a theory.

[Rigamarole]

Personally I'd struggle to own a cat with an anchor that wasn't on the forebeam. It is so much easier with setting and retrieving.

[chrisr]

i'd agree with earlier comments : on your size boat, moving the anchor back isn't going to make that much difference and you'll be buying a heap of complications. i'm guessing lagoons do what they do to hide that nasty muddy anchor where it cannot be seen

to locate the proder, suggest to look at moving the bow roller to the side slightly. we have 2 bow rollers, with the prodder located in between. works fine for us

cheers,

[smj]

I’ve also heard of people mounting the bowsprit slightly of center.

[tomfl]

Originally Posted by chrisr

SNIP

i'm guessing lagoons do what they do to hide that nasty muddy anchor where it cannot be seen

SNIP

Have to say I tend to raise the anchor till the tip of the shank is just above the surface of the water, go back to the steering station, kill the outboards in wells, raise the out boards out of the water, and since I have already raised the sails trim them and play with the traveler till the boat starts tracking on a course. By this time the nasty muddy anchor has turned into one I can pull over the roller and tie down.

[2gr8escape]

I too, am contemplating by anchor set up on a 38' cat. Currently no windlass or bow roller is on the boat. I will have a 4' A frame bowsprit and want to keep my tramps clean and uncluttered (no catwalk).

Thinking of leading rode under tramp to the crossbar and deploying from underside. This should allow easier bridle attachment and avoid hull chafe when droping/weighing. Is anyone aware of a bow-roller designed to install under a crossbar? Or is that a custom fabrication.

[smj]

Originally Posted by 2gr8escape

I too, am contemplating by anchor set up on a 38' cat. Currently no windlass or bow roller is on the boat. I will have a 4' A frame bowsprit and want to keep my tramps clean and uncluttered (no catwalk).

Thinking of leading rode under tramp to the crossbar and deploying from underside. This should allow easier bridle attachment and avoid hull chafe when droping/weighing. Is anyone aware of a bow-roller designed to install under a crossbar? Or is that a custom fabrication.

If your installing a bowsprit it would probably be advisable to install some form of compression strut from the crossbeam to the forward edge of the bridgedeck, otherwise your crossbeam may buckle under the loads.