Modernizing a Prout Elite 37ft

[Buzzman]

Yeah, understand why you'd want the extended leg, but doesn't that mean it'll still be submerged when not in use?

[atoll]

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Yeah, understand why you'd want the extended leg, but doesn't that mean it'll still be submerged when not in use?

no it lifts all the way out and is steerable.
it is the older version# 1 catamaran drive,which uses the sonic 100 sterndrive with integral fwd rev 2:1 gearbox and an extender on the leg so it is 80 cm as opposed to 54cm,driven direct from the engine flywheel .

the later version is the mk2 which is direct drive 1:1 with no gearbox, which is driven by a standard gearbox mounted on the bell housing of the engine.

this is my dilemma,as my brand new engine thatcame with the boat had had the gear box ,bell housing and mk 2 drive nicked sometime when it sat in the boat yard for 20 years with the previous owner

[Buzzman]

Ah, ok, now I get it.

You have the Mark II motor - without the drive leg, which would be too short anyway, so the one you've cobbled together is that a Mark I short leg, or a Mark II without the gearbox?

But ideally you want the Mark I leg with integral 'box and extended leg, becasue that would then bolt straight onto the flywheel of the motor you already have.

Did I get that right..??

[atoll]

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Ah, ok, now I get it.

You have the Mark II motor - without the drive leg, which would be too short anyway, so the one you've cobbled together is that a Mark I short leg, or a Mark II without the gearbox?

But ideally you want the Mark I leg with integral 'box and extended leg, becasue that would then bolt straight onto the flywheel of the motor you already have.

Did I get that right..??

the motor is a brand new vetus m4.14 33hp,minus its bellhousing and gear box.

in the haste to launch the boat with minimal structure inside and get it the 340miles down to cornwall, the choice was either to find an outboard to drive it,or push it with my 25hp rib or use the engine I had.

the sonic 100 came up on ebay for £100,so it was a no brainer,just made a mount for the leg to drop it down and a landrover front end propshaft with its universals to mate between flywheel and gearbox,worked a charm

did the trip in 47 hours

but now want to use something that bolts directly to the transom,so the mk1 would be ideal as I have spare props for it and can strip the existing one for spares.

going to the mk2 leg would mean finding a bell housing and gerbox for the engine, plus different props etc

[atoll]

I machined out and laminated the end caps together to finish off the toe rails on the hulls,in between rebuilding a friends backyard that had a serious drainage problem in the last week.

it was good to have a break from boatbuilding,have cups of tea made for me whilst wall building,digging holes and hang out with the lads in the yard for a change

[SaltyMonkey]

Ahh, my favorite thread is back. everything else out there is buffoooonery and postering by male A-heads.

Nice cutouts.

Love those red flowery things.

next to..
Drain stuff.
very contrasting [picture]
with shadow thingy on wall.

I expect a plop of sheep to come barreling through from the right of the pikture any second.

Atoll has a lot of fun me thinks.

[atoll]

Originally Posted by SaltyMonkey

Ahh, my favorite thread is back. everything else out there is buffoooonery and postering by male A-heads.

Nice cutouts.

Love those red flowery things.

next to..
Drain stuff.
very contrasting [picture]
with shadow thingy on wall.

I expect a plop of sheep to come barreling through from the right of the pikture any second.

Atoll has a lot of fun me thinks.

all done now,toe rail is complete with the end caps glued and sikaflexed
in place just got to sand off the plugs then apply teak oil.
will post some photos soon
almostdark by the time I finished

[geoffr]

atoll,

Looking nice!
Was it teak you've used for the rub rails? And did you through bolt? .. I ask because ours are rather leaky and we are considering removing the through-bolting to have less holes in the boat

Originally Posted by atoll

more bling and bits of wood!

the weather Gods were kind and have managed to get rub rails done on both sides.

forestay chainplate installed as well,pleased with the bends that were a good fit.
will hopefully get the cross beams fore and aft done today,then sand off the plugs next week and get it all oiled.

haven't quite decided what to use for the 4 endcaps,prout had specially fabricated ones in anodised aluminium,but might see what I can do in iroko with the spindle moulder

[atoll]

Originally Posted by geoffr

atoll,

Looking nice!
Was it teak you've used for the rub rails? And did you through bolt? .. I ask because ours are rather leaky and we are considering removing the through-bolting to have less holes in the boat

no not teak,i would have to sell the children to afford teak at todays prices!

I have used seasoned iroko,which machines well,is harder than teak and is about half the price ,all in I used slightly more than 3 x12ft by 1'1/4x7' planks,with a4 fasteners and pu sealant cost about £240 total.

I cant really see a way of attaching any type of toe rail with out using through hull fasteners,other than with self tapping screws,but this would be a bit hit and miss,and you would still probably end up drilling through the hull.

I looked at using anodised aluminium extrusionwith a rubber insert,but this was very expensive,and I could not find a supplier in the uk with the correct profile, to fit the hull/deck join,something like a "{".

I also looked at rubber extrusion,and it again worked out at about double the price of iroko,and the suitable profile was not available unless ordering a large quantity~100meters.

regarding the leaking problem,in my case all the bolts have penny washers on them and are bedded in sikaflex on the inside as well as fully bedded in sika behind the rubbing strip,also I will be laminating removable covering panels to conceal the bolts so should they leak in the future they can be easily got at.

here are a few links that I collected when I did my research.

The Adventures of PV Aurochs and Crew: Rubrail Project

Boat Fendering,Marine Rubber & Silicone Extrusions by lbh, EPDM Rubber, Rubber D fenders,Rubber U fenders , Rubber B fenders , Rubber DD fenders,

https://www.wilks.co.uk/marine/boat-...-profiles.html

[HappyMdRSailor]

Lookin' SWEET Alex!

Don't let the monkey distract you from the task at hand...

[SaltyMonkey]

Originally Posted by HappyMdRSailor

...
Don't let the monkey distract you from the task at hand...

SaltyMonkey approves of Atollboat. You know it's reaching the end of teh build when we're concerned about cosmettix tow-rayles instead of building a nav station.

GO ATOLL!!!!

[atoll]

a bit more Bling installed!

lewmar electric capstan that I had lying around which will cater for the 2nd anchor which is a 45lb CQR that will live in the front anchor locker.
rode is about 200ft of 3/4 polyester and a few meters of chain.

as promised a couple of photos of the toe rail end caps,was going to sand off the plugs but rain stopped play

one of these days I will really have to get the pressure washer out and clean the whole boat,instead of around the bits getting fitted

[SaltyMonkey]

oooh what beautify teaky thingies. it almost looks photoshopped

Originally Posted by atoll

one of these days I will really have to get the pressure washer out and clean the whole boat,instead of around the bits getting fitted...

We should set up a fund to PAY you to clean that slimy **** off just so we don't have to look at it no mo. That or PAY you to lettuce paint it.

[Snowgoose35]

Hi Alex, slight drift but was hoping for some advice. I'm also making an Iroko rubbing stake to replace the rubber U channel someone put on year ago which has seem better days.

I don't want to screw it in to the hull to deck joint though and was wondering if there's any good reason not to fix with Sika (with Sika primer first so it really sticks) or even West System epoxy as I have a big tin left over... Any advice please?

[weavis]

Originally Posted by Snowgoose35

Hi Alex, slight drift but was hoping for some advice. I'm also making an Iroko rubbing stake to replace the rubber U channel someone put on year ago which has seem better days.

I don't want to screw it in to the hull to deck joint though and was wondering if there's any good reason not to fix with Sika (with Sika primer first so it really sticks) or even West System epoxy as I have a big tin left over... Any advice please?

GO for it.
You will be the first to know if it doesnt work.
I used to stick all sorts on with silicone. Bead the silicone, then put hot glue and press the part into place. The hot glue holds it tight while the silicone cures.