Deck Hatches on Aft Deck That Are Walked On?

[s/v Jedi]

Some better examples

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Some better examples

I’m really loving this idea. I don’t like the deck penetrations. I don’t want to drill any holes into my deck. The cut out is wild last around the edges. There’s always chance for a mistake even doing fill and drill stuff. Everything I do with deck things if possible is surface mount.

This looks like it would work fantastically. You have me leaning more toward making the hatches again.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I’m really loving this idea. I don’t like the deck penetrations. I don’t want to drill any holes into my deck. The cut out is wild last around the edges. There’s always chance for a mistake even doing fill and drill stuff. Everything I do with deck things if possible is surface mount.

This looks like it would work fantastically. You have me leaning more toward making the hatches again.

Cool

Now the catch is that you get round-overs on lid and flange at the hinge side. I don’t see that as a problem but it isn’t like those fancy hidden hinges that look great when the hatch is closed, but cut you up when you try to pass through.

A problem that needs to be addressed is that the lid won’t compress the gasket (enough) this way. The lid needs some studs extending on the underside along the hinge, that push against the underside of the deck flange when closed, forcing the lif further down and thus the gasket into compression. Easy to do as well.

Which leaves the clamps to close it. Winch handle operated seems a no-brainer, but you have a hole through the lid. I never had a problem with this with my Bomar hatches, a simple O-ring should seal good enough. How to make these from zero maintenance composite material

[Chotu]

I still don’t think the flush hatches are good long-term solutions. They rely on seals in an “underwater” sort of application. And seals go bad. I think building the lip around the cutout and putting a hatch on top of that is something that will not leak. I know it’s not as pretty, but, it’ll work forever. And if you overlap the hatch over the lip, you don’t even need a gasket. Ever. It just stays waterproof for all of eternity.

[Benz]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I still don’t think the flush hatches are good long-term solutions. They rely on seals in an “underwater” sort of application. And seals go bad. I think building the lip around the cutout and putting a hatch on top of that is something that will not leak. I know it’s not as pretty, but, it’ll work forever. And if you overlap the hatch over the lip, you don’t even need a gasket. Ever. It just stays waterproof for all of eternity.

This is how I made all my hatches--with deep coamings, and gasket material under the lid where the sun can't cook it. Never an issue, and I find the gasket just a formality. I also made a flange of glass sticking up from the deck vertically behind the hatch to bolt the hinges to, so there's no holes going into the deck, just across the flange. Next time I'll use Jedi's dyneema hinge idea. I've already used it on small boat rudders and it works fine.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I still don’t think the flush hatches are good long-term solutions. They rely on seals in an “underwater” sort of application. And seals go bad. I think building the lip around the cutout and putting a hatch on top of that is something that will not leak. I know it’s not as pretty, but, it’ll work forever. And if you overlap the hatch over the lip, you don’t even need a gasket. Ever. It just stays waterproof for all of eternity.

Well…. I have the cast aluminum Bomar hatches that are considered the best available… but Dashew built a fiberglass breakwater in front of them, making the hatches flush with the breakwater. The reason is that when a wave comes on deck, you don’t want that to splash against your hatch because the pressure will blast through. With a flush hatch, the wave passes over.

Also, the gasket isn’t under water, because it sits on top of a lip that sticks up around the opening perimeter, with a channel with drain around it. It’s just all lowered to sit flush with the deck.
I mean, if you have hatches on the cabin top as well as the deck, are the deck hatches under water because they are lower than the others? Water from the cabin top will run down to deck… but it will drain before raising to the level of the gaskets of the deck hatch.

It all depends on that drainage.

[bullislandken]

While not a fan of Lewmar hatches, some of mine could be closed from the top and a couple handles on the top (outside) turn the lever cams that close the hatch “watertight”, we hope. To lock it though is strictly from below by flipping a couple red tabs. Then it could not be opened until the red tab was was flipped back and then you had to turn the cam from the top or the bottom and you are in business. I do not know the model or series.

[MWGDVC]

I have the Bomar hatches on my boat. I replaced the acrylic lenses with non-skid Starboard. Now I can walk on my hatches (when closed), without fear of cracking them. The cream coloured Starboard is somewhat opaque, so a little light "glow" in the cabins under direct sunlight. The non-skid pattern is a fairly close match to my existing deck non-skid. Works a treat for me.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by MWGDVC

I have the Bomar hatches on my boat. I replaced the acrylic lenses with non-skid Starboard. Now I can walk on my hatches (when closed), without fear of cracking them. The cream coloured Starboard is somewhat opaque, so a little light "glow" in the cabins under direct sunlight. The non-skid pattern is a fairly close match to my existing deck non-skid. Works a treat for me.

What thickness did you use and how did you finish the edges?

[Chotu]

I think, in this case, I have to go with speed again. I have a goal of being able to sail this thing around a little come fall. There are a lot of issues to overcome between now and then.

So, I need to get prefab hatches that sit above the deck. There are composite chain plates yet to be built, all of the running rigging to be done. That’s a lot of work. I’d like to meet a timeline for once. Ha ha

Does someone make a hatch like MWGDVC is talking about? Something made out of solid plastic that just sits above the deck like a normal escape hatch that you have over your berth? But instead of the acrylic it has something else?

If not, the hatches I have been using can be walked on. Vetus low profile hatches. I don’t walk on them so they don’t get scratched or anything. Not so I don’t fall through. They are made out of like 1/4” thick acrylic. They use that instead of all of those bars and bracing around the part that actually opens. It’s simply a piece of acrylic.

I suppose I could just get more of those and put nonskid paint on it if I can figure a way to get it to stick. Otherwise the grip tape idea could work.

[MWGDVC]

I used ½” thick non-skid molded Starboard. I ordered it machined from Teak Isle Mfg. In Ocoee Fl. Gave them the dimensions, corner radii, and had them route a ¼” cove on the top surface all around. Very satisfied with the work.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I think, in this case, I have to go with speed again. I have a goal of being able to sail this thing around a little come fall. There are a lot of issues to overcome between now and then.

So, I need to get prefab hatches that sit above the deck. There are composite chain plates yet to be built, all of the running rigging to be done. That’s a lot of work. I’d like to meet a timeline for once. Ha ha

Does someone make a hatch like MWGDVC is talking about? Something made out of solid plastic that just sits above the deck like a normal escape hatch that you have over your berth? But instead of the acrylic it has something else?

If not, the hatches I have been using can be walked on. Vetus low profile hatches. I don’t walk on them so they don’t get scratched or anything. Not so I don’t fall through. They are made out of like 1/4” thick acrylic. They use that instead of all of those bars and bracing around the part that actually opens. It’s simply a piece of acrylic.

I suppose I could just get more of those and put nonskid paint on it if I can figure a way to get it to stick. Otherwise the grip tape idea could work.

1/4” acrylic may work but I can confirm that 1/4” polycarbonate doesn’t: it flexes too much. This is okay on the Bomar hatches with the support rails underneath but even then, as the material ages and becomes brittle, it will crack in the end.

I’m not willing to spend any $$$ on new hatches as I have Bomar already. I would love to get rid of the frame to deck sealant with all the fasteners going through, plus I have many gelcoat cracks there to deal with… cutting it away for a new, fiberglass flush frame that is bonded to the deck permanently becomes more attractive that way

I’m gonna build a simplistic prototype from wood to get an idea.

[Sailorman4009]

Bowmar!! Definitely. Thats what I have and they are still in business supporting hatches that are forty years old. In a nutshell. Dependable.

Custom hatches can and do work if designed correctly.

If you have water buildup around the edges no hatch will hold it back forever. It is imperative that the drain port and tube be cleaned regularly. I use a two foot long nylon tube cleaning brush. They can be found at industrial supply houses and are used for pipe cleaning. They come in various sizes and leave nothing behind. Water seeks its own level. if the tubes are clean it will drain. I tend to stay away from totally flush deck openings. A little elevation will deflect a huge amount of trouble. Good luck.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

1/4” acrylic may work but I can confirm that 1/4” polycarbonate doesn’t: it flexes too much. This is okay on the Bomar hatches with the support rails underneath but even then, as the material ages and becomes brittle, it will crack in the end.

I’m not willing to spend any $$$ on new hatches as I have Bomar already. I would love to get rid of the frame to deck sealant with all the fasteners going through, plus I have many gelcoat cracks there to deal with… cutting it away for a new, fiberglass flush frame that is bonded to the deck permanently becomes more attractive that way

I’m gonna build a simplistic prototype from wood to get an idea.

That’s pretty cool! I hope you add some pictures of that to the thread.

I think I’m going to buy off the shelf stuff because speed. It’s been too many years building this thing. I need to get it moving.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Sailorman4009

Bowmar!! Definitely. Thats what I have and they are still in business supporting hatches that are forty years old. In a nutshell. Dependable.

Custom hatches can and do work if designed correctly.

If you have water buildup around the edges no hatch will hold it back forever. It is imperative that the drain port and tube be cleaned regularly. I use a two foot long nylon tube cleaning brush. They can be found at industrial supply houses and are used for pipe cleaning. They come in various sizes and leave nothing behind. Water seeks its own level. if the tubes are clean it will drain. I tend to stay away from totally flush deck openings. A little elevation will deflect a huge amount of trouble. Good luck.

See, I think that’s just it. I don’t need another job. Cleaning out all those little holes everywhere. So I’m going to have to just go with the most low maintenance fastest solution.

That’s a low profile hatch screwed onto a low profile exterior trim ring that’s 5200’ed to the deck. That way it keeps the water out by default.