Re-Galvanize chain?

[Black Diamond]

I have 300' of 3/8 anchor chain that was new with my boat in 2007. This year, it seems the galvanizing has worn off (windlass?) and I'm getting rust all over the chain. There is NO pitting and I've inspected the links (they look good), its just that the surface has a dust on it that "floats off" when each link hits the water and is rinsed by the washdown pump when we pull it in. It then reforms. It is OBVIOUSLY not stainless, but either a proof or BBB domestic. I cannot remember. It was put on during commissioning in RI and I stated no import chain at the time.

So... I'm not sure whether I can have it dipped in some kind of acid and regalvanized or whether new chain is called for.

Any thoughts? Has anyone done this? Cost?

Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hylas 49-057
Portsmouth, RI.

[TravellerNick]

You say it's obviously not stainless, but did it look shiny when new? Because some stainless does rust, it depends on the chromium content. I'm probably wrong in my thinking, but it's just a thought anyhow.

[RaymondR]

If the chain is not worn or links reduced in cross section it's an economic decision. Cost of new chain versus galvanising cost.

[Black Diamond]

Re: economic decision - of course... it just seems a shame to throw out the chain I have because its doing this.

Re: chain type - its not stainless, that's a definite. Its an ACCO BBB or Hi-tensile chain of 3/8" used on my MAXwell 2200 windlass.

Its been a champ for 9 years. I sleep soundly with 300' of chain on the CQR #65 and 100' of chain with 200' of spliced on rode for the Bruce 66. The chain for the Bruce and the CQR were cut at the same time. The CQR is primary and goes thru the gypsy all the time, whereas the Bruce gets used only when I need to lay a second anchor out. The chain still has all its galvanizing and looks fairly new. Its a wear thing. We usually anchor out and don't take moorings. Given the chain seems fine and its a coating wear problem (I believe), I'd rather re-coat than replace. But not if its $1000+ to do so. I can buy new chain for that.

Anyone know of a shop in the New England area that will do this? I see some galvanizing shops listed but its not clear whether this is too small a job to be worth their while.

Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hylas 49-057
Portsmouth, RI.

[GILow]

Just went through this process myself a few months ago. Cost of regal was about 25% of the cost of the new chain. Had to check with the PO that the chain had not been regalved already, apparently there is a limit to the number of times you can do so without losing strength. All good, chain was still with original galv. Sounds like yours is in OK condition but if you do need to remove any loose rust I discovered that towing the chain behind the car down a sandy dirt road cleaned up nicely. The regalv guys commented on how tidy the chain was when I dropped it in to them.

Matt


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[SV Bacchus]

Originally Posted by GILow

Sounds like yours is in OK condition but if you do need to remove any loose rust I discovered that towing the chain behind the car down a sandy dirt road cleaned up nicely.

Done this with several things over my lifetime, work great. A poor man's sandblaster..

[Black Diamond]

The Indiana Jones approach to cleaning it up. I thought they'd just drop it in some kind of bath before galvanizing.

Rick

[gjordan]

There have been a number of threads on regalvanizing. Lots of good information using the search feature. One thing you want to remember is that most shops only do jobs when they have enough work to justify firing up those big tanks. You may wait a week or a month or so. Ask if they have a tumbler for after the galvanizing. Most shops charge by the pound, so figure out what your chain weighs so you can get good estimates. I think it is a very practical thing to do. ______Grant.

[MarkJ]

The galvanising place puts it in an acid bath first.

I like the idea of dragging it behind a car on sand.

[GILow]

Yep, as per Mark the acid bath is part of the process. The sand is only needed if there is a lot of flakey rust. Does not sound like it from the description.


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[Saltrun]

Many shops that galvanize steel have a minimum job size in order for it to be cost effective for them. I bought new chain that was so poorly galvanized, I had no choice but to have it redone. I found a shop in Jacksonville, they were happy to re-galvanize the chain. They acid dipped it to remove the existing zinc, not sure about pre-existing rust, probably is OK if not too bad. The point about the minimum job size is important, as I also got my Delta anchor included for free- the total job was still below the minimum job cost by weight. I think it cost about $330.00 for three hundred feet of 3/8 inch chain and a 44 Delta. The galvanizing was heavy, but the chain needed to be broken free, as many of the links were galvanized together. A quick smack with a hammer and they were free. Some, very few, of these fused areas were not completely galvanized after this freeing process, the shop told me this would be the case. It ended up to be way better than I had before, and the areas I was worried about were not an issue after three years. Overall, the chain and anchor were really galvanized heavily, and were way better than any off the shelf chain available. It was $300.00 well spent.
Chris
S/V Saltrun

[bvander]

Getting harder to find places that regalvanize chain. Would recommend you try and find one that uses a hot dip with a shaker tank, this ensures the links get complete coverage and do not get welded together by the galvanization.

[puffcard]

None in RI, there are two MA and one in CT. Use this site to find the one near you. We usually go around the marina and round up a pile of stuff to drip and get enough to fire up the kettle.

Galvanizer Locations | American Galvanizers Association

Connecticut Galvanizing
239 Commerce St
PO Box 358
Glastonbury, CT 06033

Phone: 860-659-4330
Fax: 860-659-9561

Kettle(s) (L x W x D):
30'6" X 5' X 7'6"

Duncan Galvanizing Corp.
69 Norman St
Everett, MA 02149

Phone: 617-389-8440
Phone: 800-638-1011
Fax: 617-389-2831

Kettle(s) (L x W x D):
42' x 5'2 x 7'

V&S Taunton Galvanizing LLC
585 John Hancock Rd
Taunton, MA 2780

Phone: 508-828-9499
Fax: 508-828-1177

Kettle(s) (L x W x D):
29' x 6' x 10'

Be careful re-dipping Delta anchors, or any anchor with a ballast cavity. I redid one and it busted the welded seam on the bottom and all the ballast (lead) melded out.

[RaymondR]

One of the things I do is end for end it so that the part which generally stays in the locker and consequently has undamaged galvanising gets some use.


So that the stuff which then stays in the locker does not go rusty I spray it with boiled linseed oil using a spray bottle I keep in the locker I tend to respray it now and then when it is dry and uncovered whilst I am at anchor.


The boiled linseed oil also tends to lubricate the chain and ease it passage through the winch so I tend to keep all the chain coated with it.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by MarkJ

I like the idea of dragging it behind a car on sand.

NASCAR racing in the USA is trying to figure out a way to slow down the racecars. The new Daytona 500 could go back to racing on the sand and drag 250' lengths of chain behind each car. I don't think our KIA could do it at all.