Replacing Running Rigging - Techniques for Reaving?

[flightlead404]

I'm in the process of purchasing a 2007 Hunter 38. I intend to replace all running rigging immediately. It's all original and it's looking anywhere from pretty tired to dangerous.

My plan was to have all the lines made up to spec (hunterowners.com) and then to use the following technique on each halyard/topping lift:

• Using a spool of mason's line, attach to the bitter end if line to be replaced
  Lower the main/jib
  Remove any shackle on the end of the line
  Pull the line back through the mast/blocks etc until reaching the mason's line
  Detach the original line, attach the bitter end of the new line
  Using the mason's line pull the new line through the clutches, blocks, mast etc
  Remove mason's line and reattach any shackles
  Reattach sails as appropriate, hoist and furl

I'll need to use this technique on topping lift, main halyard, jib halyard. There is not currently a spinnaker halyard although there is what appears to be a factory original messenger line in place that I can use. I won't need to do this obviously for vang, traveller, mainsheet and so on.

What's the best way to attach the mason's line? I was thinking of stitching it through the line where its whipped a few times.

Any pointers? is this likely to work/fail? Is the use of mason's line a good choice or is there a better option for a messenger line?

Thanks

[Thumbs Up]

No need for a messenger. Just tape the new line to the old one and pull it through.

[CassidyNZ]

I make “paper clips” out of thin SS filler rod (TIG) and connect the two ends by threading the clip through. Never ever had one part.

[Jim Cate]

Using tape may work, but it is not very secure and the penalty from having it part whilst in the mast is kinda severe! I've always sewn the ends together with a few stitches of sail twine. The ends of the two lines should be either whipped or melted to keep the stitches from pulling out.

Takes about two-three minutes and is very secure.

JIm

[dfelsent]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Using tape may work, but it is not very secure and the penalty from having it part whilst in the mast is kinda severe! I've always sewn the ends together with a few stitches of sail twine. The ends of the two lines should be either whipped or melted to keep the stitches from pulling out.

Takes about two-three minutes and is very secure.

JIm

I heartily second the sewing one line to the other. Multiple passes of waxed whipping twine, going far enough up (2” for me) to keep from pulling out the braid and low enough down (1/2” for me) to keep the lines aligned. And ties with a nice few knots. And plenty of tail to the knots so they won’t fail.
If I’m concerned about running the lumpiness through the blocks I might, but almost never do, put a couple of turns of tape too. But the tape causes its own problems.

By multiple I mean about 5 or 6 round trips. So 10-12 parts of whipping twine.

Even when sewing to reeving lines I do the same thing.

I’d just sew the new to the old as Jim suggests.

Feel things as you pull. If there is a hang up go back and forth and jiggle things to get past the obstacle.

[dfelsent]

Oh. And the pedantic side of me hopes you are reeving not reaving [emoji1]

[Benz]

Any decent rig shop will put a reeving eye as standard procedure in the back end of a line that gets moused through anywhere. Tie the messenger to that with a bowline or buntline hitch: far quicker than stitching.

[Jim Cate]

ar quicker than stitching.

Yeah, far quicker IF there is a reeving eye already in place. When you buy line from the chandlery, no such eye is in place, and while they are not too difficult to master, stitching is easier for the novice.

And, adding the step of pulling a mouse line through and then using it to pull the new halyard is a lot slower than simply using the old to pull the new.

Jim

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Using tape may work, but it is not very secure and the penalty from having it part whilst in the mast is kinda severe! I've always sewn the ends together with a few stitches of sail twine. The ends of the two lines should be either whipped or melted to keep the stitches from pulling out.

Takes about two-three minutes and is very secure.

JIm

A1+.. Wot H^^^^^^E Sed..

[StuM]

Another vote for Jim's stitching method!

[bensolomon]

I stitch, too.

[Jammer]

If you are ordering the lines from a rigging shop with things like eye splices made and hardware attached, then they will make reeving eyes if you ask them, perhaps for a small fee. These are non-loadbearing eyes made using the cover only that do not make the tail of the rope thicker. They do make the process easier.


I sew lines together otherwise, taping also if the ends of either line are unfinished.



Most mason line is pretty light for mousing line, I would use something heavier if you do that.

[Thumbs Up]

Have always used tape for this. A few long strips of gorilla tape, then wrap in a tight spiral. Have never had one even close to parting. Usually I have better things to do than stitching, it works so well that it is hard to get the tape apart after. No lump either because the spiral wrapping squeezes the line. The only time you would need a messenger is if you are trying preserve a shackle splice on the old halyard.

[Rick Williams]

I've always had great success with heat shrink tubing. If you use the kind with adhesive for one thing you can't pull it apart and for another, cut the joint in half when you get it through and your line is already whipped.

[bensolomon]

Originally Posted by Rick Williams

I've always had great success with heat shrink tubing. If you use the kind with adhesive for one thing you can't pull it apart and for another, cut the joint in half when you get it through and your line is already whipped.

That is a great idea!!!! Thank you!!!

Ben