New Standing Rigging

[GaryMayo]

Originally Posted by markpierce

Seems like a good idea. Your present masts appear low assuming you have sufficient weight in the keel. My father preferred a sailboat with half it's weight in lead located in the keel, but he was considering the strong afternoon winds of San Francisco Bay.

My keel is 1,750#. I have a keel that fits this boat that is 2,200# but I do not want that large a job over winter, and I figure I can try it with the lighter keel one season. Not wanting a mizzen at the top of the 27.5' mast, will save a bit of room for a US flag. (Or maybe a crows nest!)

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

I have some pretty old bronze bodies here. We replaced the studs only (they are ss) as the upper ones come as wire terminals. The lower ones were very inexpensive in our case too.

I asked our rigger when to replace the bodies and he said: 'and what is wrong with them'?

b.

Same here. They are Merriman chrome bronze open turnbuckles, and have never seen salt water. After 39 years, I am replacing all the stays and a few tangs and toggles, even though they still look good and I do not shy away from carrying plenty of canvas in buckets of wind.

I just figure I owe the boat and fate should not be tempted further. Standing rigging minus turnbuckles (just 1/4" 1 x 19 SS wire and terminals) is just $875 for me...a no-brainer and cheap insurance for the next 20 or so years.

In salt, I would consider 10-15 years to be the maximum obligatory replacement cycle.

[mrohr]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

It's not just cracks one has to watch for. The threads need to be cleaned and inspected as well. They maybe just a hair away from stripping out.

With stainless on stainless there better be an anti-sieze or other equivalent to lube the threads. Stainless tends to (gall) weld itself together under stress.

I may be wrong ,but I suspect the graphite used in many anti-sieze compounds and sprays may set up a galvantic circuit between the carbon ( graphite) and the ss or bronze turnbuckles. Just one more thing to worry about.
Gord ,this is your kind of stuff; can you help us out here?

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by mrohr

I may be wrong ,but I suspect the graphite used in many anti-sieze compounds and sprays may set up a galvantic circuit between the carbon ( graphite) and the ss or bronze turnbuckles. Just one more thing to worry about.
Gord ,this is your kind of stuff; can you help us out here?

Personally, I use Tuf-Gel or Lanocote! But>>> SailKote Marine Dry Lubricant & Coating for Sails, Rigging, Deck Hardware and more. - McLube

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by mrohr

I may be wrong ,but I suspect the graphite used in many anti-sieze compounds and sprays may set up a galvantic circuit between the carbon ( graphite) and the ss or bronze turnbuckles. Just one more thing to worry about.
Gord ,this is your kind of stuff; can you help us out here?

Graphite and stainless (or bronze) is a HUGE problem. This includes molybendium, and other graphite compounds. Much like carbon fiber graphite is at the very top of the galvanic chart, and will cause localized galvanic corrosion at the threads. It is a great lubricant, but should never be used on or near stainless threads.

We are using it on titanium turnbuckles, because they are galvanically compatible. So there is a use for it in standing rigging, but not when the turnbuckles are stainless.

As for what other materials... Well my vote is for titanium rigging, with Dynex Dux replacing the wire, but I am a tad prejudice on the matter.

[islandplanet]

Exmoor,

Use Lanocote or Tef-Gel on the threads to prevent galling and make them easy to get apart later. As an aside, don't fall into the trap of bigger is better. Upsizing rigging is not a great idea. We see it all the time.

[rebel heart]

Originally Posted by islandplanet

Exmoor,

Use Lanocote or Tef-Gel on the threads to prevent galling and make them easy to get apart later. As an aside, don't fall into the trap of bigger is better. Upsizing rigging is not a great idea. We see it all the time.

The numbers I've known for sizing rigging (1x19 anyway) is twice the weight of your keel. So if you carry 2 tons of lead, use wire that has a 8,000lb working load. I don't have any backup for that assertion but I've read it in a few books and it's easy for me to remember.

[islandplanet]

I would much rather see a wire break during a knockdown or rollover than a chainplate pull out of the boat. If the boat has been properly designed, the naval architect calculated appropriate structures and rigging. People who go oversize on rigging add extra weight aloft and may interfere with some safeguards.

[phorvati]

Get in touch with your original rigger. Not all riggers are the same.
Before replacing parts of my standing ringing (nitronic50 -10 rod), with the mast down, I had a fortune of original rig designer coming over and spending half a day going over everything. Best 500$ I ever spent.
In my experience, lanocote or tef-gel leave threads sticky and collect dirt, dust, sand, then few years later you try to adjust your rig and all of a sudden your threads get damaged.
I've been using Dry Molly (Molybdenum disulphide) to prevent galling on turnbuckle threads.

[s/v 'Faith']

Originally Posted by rebel heart

The numbers I've known for sizing rigging (1x19 anyway) is twice the weight of your keel. So if you carry 2 tons of lead, use wire that has a 8,000lb working load. I don't have any backup for that assertion but I've read it in a few books and it's easy for me to remember.

+1... Have heard also and seems like a reasonable approach.

[islandplanet]

Originally Posted by phorvati

Get in touch with your original rigger. Not all riggers are the same.
Before replacing parts of my standing ringing (nitronic50 -10 rod), with the mast down, I had a fortune of original rig designer coming over and spending half a day going over everything. Best 500$ I ever spent.
In my experience, lanocote or tef-gel leave threads sticky and collect dirt, dust, sand, then few years later you try to adjust your rig and all of a sudden your threads get damaged.
I've been using Dry Molly (Molybdenum disulphide) to prevent galling on turnbuckle threads.

Main thing is to use something. I've been using Lanocote for many years without any problem. If it's collected some debris, a rag with solvent can be used to wipe it off before loosening the turnbuckle. I've seen rigs that haven't been touched in 8 years loosen up easily if they have been treated. Dry Molly sounds like a good product. Will look into that.

[Thumbs Up]

The OP just wanted to know if he should replace his turnbuckles. You guys want to talk about what to put on the threads. I don't really think it matters if you use anything on the threads. I lube my threads with a little Inox so they don't get hot when tensioning but during their lifetime they will only need retensioning a handful of times, not enough to worry about galling. You might as well replace the turnbuckles unless they look really good, this way you will have all new rigging, not just partially new, but if you need to save money reuse them and just get swaged on studs.