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Old 07-06-2014, 15:02   #796
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Sounds like you're feeling a bit overwhelmed Rick, keep going I know I said a while be back to be fussy guess the other side of it is not to get tooooo fussy. perfect doesn't exist although minaret gets close haha

When it's finished you will be proud of the mistakes too
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Old 07-06-2014, 16:06   #797
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Sounds like you're feeling a bit overwhelmed Rick, keep going I know I said a while be back to be fussy guess the other side of it is not to get tooooo fussy. perfect doesn't exist although minaret gets close haha
I don't think it's so much overwhelmed but more being dissatisfied with the pace of the work. I just can't get it done quick enough by myself. I got a kid coming in at the end of the month to help out 3 days a week. He'll get a workout!

I was just thinking now this thing has been upside down like this for over 2 years. Granted I lost a lot of time with injury but still, guess it just bugs me.

I can fully appreciate the skills & abilities of the guys like minaret who do this for a living. For guys like him it's more like art than manual labor at his level.

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When it's finished you will be proud of the mistakes too
Ayup! Every pin hole, scratch, warp & twist! All my handiwork!

Thanks for the encouragement Warby!
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:29   #798
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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A rattlecan is still best for fairing though.
Is this enough coverage? Too much?
I used Rustoleum sandable black primer.

I'm going to give this a thorough longboarding with the 33' Flexicat and see where I stand after that. I'm really hoping I can bring this chapter to a close quickly!



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Old 08-06-2014, 07:33   #799
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Is this enough coverage? Too much?
I used Rustoleum sandable black primer.

I'm going to give this a thorough longboarding with the 33' Flexicat and see where I stand after that. I'm really hoping I can bring this chapter to a close quickly!





Too much. Get back further and go for an even splatter everywhere. It'll work fine like that, but if you have any lows you need to put more filler on you must acetone wipe the guide off first. This is much easier if it's not too heavy. You will find this really helps on a surface that size. Guide coating becomes a habit, till you think people who don't are nuts...
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:35   #800
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Too much. Get back further and go for an even splatter everywhere. It'll work fine like that, but if you have any lows you need to put more filler on you must acetone wipe the guide off first. This is much easier if it's not too heavy.
Gotcha.

It's pretty tight in there but I think I can get back a bit further. Had to shut the doors 'cause the wind was blowing the crap everywhere! Just waiting for it to dry then I'll sand it out. Update later.

Thanks.
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:53   #801
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Greetings
I've done my fair share of re-coring glass over plywood - spent six years doing this to my Taiwanese Trawler in a barn... So I feel your pain I really do.

Three pieces of advice:

Your goal is to make it look good from 10 feet away - or you'll never finish it.

You won't know if it's fair until you paint it with white primer.

Another trick I figured out at the end was that the soft, sand able fillers are far stronger than you think. Resin mixed with phenolic micro bubbles (or U.S. composites Q-Cells) to the consistency of mayonnaise self levels and sands very easily. Once it's coated with several coats of 2 part epoxy paint it's surprisingly resistant to dings and abrasions. You're building a coastal cruiser, not an ice class expeditionary vessel, correct?

Good luck!
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:39   #802
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Hey MM, thanks for looking in. Sage advice too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moosemiester View Post
Greetings
I've done my fair share of re-coring glass over plywood - spent six years doing this to my Taiwanese Trawler in a barn... So I feel your pain I really do.
You must have arms like Popeye now eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moosemiester View Post
Three pieces of advice:

Your goal is to make it look good from 10 feet away - or you'll never finish it.

You won't know if it's fair until you paint it with white primer.

Another trick I figured out at the end was that the soft, sand able fillers are far stronger than you think. Resin mixed with phenolic micro bubbles (or U.S. composites Q-Cells) to the consistency of mayonnaise self levels and sands very easily. Once it's coated with several coats of 2 part epoxy paint it's surprisingly resistant to dings and abrasions.
I'm pretty sure I'm using the wrong product (Quikfair) for this type of work. It's too thick to fill the minor defects. I end up with sanding the **** out of a patch only to find I've now got two low spots on either side. I'm going to try your approach which is similar to what minaret suggested on 'sanders vs peeler' thread. http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1228143

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moosemiester View Post
You're building a coastal cruiser, not an ice class expeditionary vessel, correct?
Having spent the first third of my 33 yr career in the Coast Guard aboard Icebreakers & Buoytenders I have an appreciation for strong boats!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moosemiester View Post
Good luck!
Thanks. I'm gonna need it.

So after marking the hull with the sandable primer (nasty stuff) I gave it a good going over with the Flexicats & 60 grit. The whole exercise told me some things I didn't know. There were a few high spots I didn't see and a few lows that were virtually invisible.



The bow and the bulwarks need the most work. The bow has probably a dozen (or more) layers of glass overlapped including one very heavy layer of carbon fiber.



You can see some definite low spots on the bulwarks here.



Still got a lot of sanding to do. I have some micro balloons & fumed silica. Going to try a test patch on the transom of the slurry & trowel method, maybe tomorrow.

Standby.
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:57   #803
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Guide coating becomes a habit, till you think people who don't are nuts...
Most people who know I'm building a boat think I'm nuts already!

Full steam ahead. Nobody's gonna do this for me!
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:19   #804
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Web Log Updated: M/V She:Kon: The Pro's vs The Amateurs

But you guys have pretty much seen it all here already.
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:50   #805
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Most people who know I'm building a boat think I'm nuts already!

Full steam ahead. Nobody's gonna do this for me!
I have people who think I'm nuts just for owning a boat. Not to mention wanting a project boat (someday).

It's always good to be around like-minded folks.

Looks like your build is coming along nicely.
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Old 09-06-2014, 06:55   #806
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Most people who know I'm building a boat think I'm nuts already!

Full steam ahead. Nobody's gonna do this for me!



Very happy to see this is helping you. You are catching on. You aren't sanding straight lines with the longboard, are you? Big X's is what your stroke pattern should look like. I like your description of sanding lows around a high you put too much filler on, classic problem. That's what the Flexicat curved trowel is designed to prevent, or a screed.


Full steam ahead is just what you need, as you say nobody is gonna do it for ya. No substitute for hard labor!
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:14   #807
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by minaret View Post
You aren't sanding straight lines with the longboard, are you? Big X's is what your stroke pattern should look like. I like your description of sanding lows around a high you put too much filler on, classic problem. That's what the Flexicat curved trowel is designed to prevent, or a screed.
Big X's yup! Gotta be careful with the 33" Flexi though. It'll tip without a good grip on it and leave a gouge. I do some fore and aft with the 22 around the bow where I need to fix the big low spots. Just for shaping. Hoping to have the 33" x 4-1/2" Flexicat by next week.

It is going good. Building a leen-to on the side of the boat shed to store all my offcuts before they get ruined. Back to sanding tomorrow.
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Old 10-06-2014, 15:22   #808
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Sanded a bunch o' big X's today! *hehehe* Got to thinking that the rattle can primer maybe wasn't such a good idea. Terribly messy, permeated the Quikfair and gums up the sandpaper. Oh well I'll no better next time!

Geared up for yet another exciting sanding video! Hold all the Teletubbie jokes, I've heard them all!



Web Log Updated: M/V She:Kon: So maybe that wasn't such a good idea
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Old 12-06-2014, 15:04   #809
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Was shown this link today. A company in Turkey is producing the TW28.

Kuzey Ege Yatç?l?k

Here's the brokers listing.

Özel Yapım / Özel Yapım / NORTH AEGEAN TRAWLER 30 - WEEKENDER at sahibinden.com - 124976099

At today's exchange rates it works out to:

$74,400 USD
$80,750 Cdn

Of course I had to photochop the picture of it to see what it would look like with the hull extension I did on our hull.



I'm liking that!
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Old 12-06-2014, 16:07   #810
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

The extension really improves the look of the boat. It's rather "chunky" without it. The bad news of the link is the price of the boat. Considering your years of effort, $80k Cad to buy the boat in Turkey means the value of your man hours in sweat equity may be seriously low. Are you sure of the conversion rate?
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