Charging batteries when on anchor

[Oceansailor]

Originally Posted by RobinScurr

Here's an interesting comment about cylinder bore glazing:







See Bore glazing and polishing in diesel engines – Cox Engineering for more info and graphics....

I did see that Cox actually believe that bore glazing is not a problem if the engine have was treated well the first 100 hours...

“A fully run-in engine is unlikely to suffer bore glazing, provided that its sump is filled with the recommended lubricant. Piston rings in an engine that has run for about 100 hours will conform well to the bores, limiting blow-by and oil consumption”

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by RobinScurr

That seems like a bad idea - the thermostat adjusts the temperature of the water jacket, opening and closing, to hold it at about the set point. That is the design temperature. If you weren't very careful, you could easily overheat the engine by restricting water flow too much? My old boat only has a warning light, with no audible alarm for over-temp... and it's hard to see if you don't bend over to see it!



Allowing the engine to go even higher temps than design could be a disaster.

Obviously there is a range with a top and bottom.

Of course the top should not be exceeded, ideally not even approached.

My point is in a context where the owner knows the temp would otherwise stay at / near the bottom, raising that setpoint so it gets past the "glazing because not hot enough" area. . .

I would not experiment, just asking if there are existing setups that do this.

[a64pilot]

There are so many engine experts out there, that post articles and have followings I’m not sure what to say, especially when they come out and say bizarre things like the best oils will cause glazing etc.

If you really want to know about the biggest cause of glazing of any engine read this, but Mom, that not a Yacht engine, everybody knows Yacht engines are different.
No, an engine is an engine for most things.
https://www.lycoming.com/content/har...t-engine-break

Read the part about bore glazing, skip over recommenced oils.

Now once broken in, an engine will last longer if it’s babied, just don’t baby it until after break in.

[a64pilot]

Just read the Cox article, he is completely wrong on bore polishing.
If he were correct then many, many high end engines that come with and recommend synthetic oil, would have polished bores and they do not.
First I read that high TBN oil would cause bore glazing, proved by him glazing not one but both engines on a Cat, it must have been the oil, right? Couldn’t have been the way he ran the engines.

Now I hear that synthetic oils will cause bore polishing?

Rubbish.

Bore polishing is due to wear, plain and simple, the crosshatching gets worn off, often by extensive lay up periods of the engine where a slight layer of rust forms on the cylinders and is polished off when the engine is first started, repeat many times and you have polished bores.

It’s how and why some old engines act as if they were worn out, even though they may have low hours. Age can matter.


I guess we should all use straight weight paraffin based Penzoil or Quaker State in our engines?

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


I guess we should all use straight weight paraffin based Penzoil or Quaker State in our engines?

Sure, but I find it's impossible to find!


Thanks for another quality reality check, a64. Keep up the good work. Much appreciated.

[DumnMad]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Bore polishing is due to wear, plain and simple, the crosshatching gets worn off, often by extensive lay up periods of the engine where a slight layer of rust forms on the cylinders and is polished off when the engine is first started, repeat many times and you have polished bores.

It’s how and why some old engines act as if they were worn out, even though they may have low hours. Age can matter.

I guess we should all use straight weight paraffin based Penzoil or Quaker State in our engines?

So,
1. any idea of how long an "extensive lay up period" is ?
2. do some oils protect the bores during layup for longer than others ?

[sailorboy1]

Originally Posted by Oceansailor

Well. I have 900W solar. As long as there is sun I have no problem. Unfortunately all days are not sunny.

But fortunately you don’t have to get fully charged every day

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by DumnMad

So,

1. any idea of how long an "extensive lay up period" is ?

2. do some oils protect the bores during layup for longer than others ?

I hate to say it depends but it really does.
First for us it’s most likely that the moist air that will cause the rust will come in thru the exhaust valve, being that there is water in the exhaust system, and heat to vaporize that water.
Only one or two valves will be open at most so it’s not all cylinders, all the time.

Yes, there are special preservative oils for engine lay up. But I don’t think that is what you meant, I think you meant are there some oils that protect better than others during lay-up.
I’m sure there are, but I have no idea which ones they are, I just have to go with buy a good quality oil and stick with it.
There are so many marketing claims anymore that you just don’t know.
My take on oil is that for most of us a multi viscosity oil just isn’t needed, doesn’t hurt, just isn’t needed. Same for synthetics, they are vastly superior, especially in engines that “push” oil hard, but most of us don’t push oil hard at all.

In my opinion it’s more important to do frequent oil changes than it is to spend a lot of money on synthetics, and for goodness sake, don’t go for extended oil change intervals, even with synthetics.

I’d say to try to run your engine often, at least a couple of times a month, and if you lay up over winter, it may be worth while to find a way to fog the cylinders. On my engine that would mean removing the injectors, fogging and replacing them.

I’d assume some engines it may not be possible to fog a cylinder, ones with pre-combustion chambers I’m not sure how you could.

However it would seem that neither bore polishing nor bore glazing is an issue for the vast majority of us, so I wouldn’t lose any sleep over it.
My engine is now 30 yrs old, had 500 hours on it when I bought it five years ago, and is running fine, no oil consumption, starts instantly. Makes good power.
You would think it would be the poster child for bore polishing, but so far, it’s good.

[DumnMad]

Thanks a64.

I was thinking of steel corrosion being extremely fast if its polished frequently. e.g. splash-zone steel piles washed by wave moved sand. Bare steel will corode almost instantly but a film of corrosion slows right down if the rust coating is left in place.

Could be better to leave for 6 months and have one start-up rather than 3 start-ups at 2 month intervals or 6 at 1 month intervals.
Optimum Interval between start-ups will depend on how long the oil will keep the surface sealed against moisture.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

A little Honda 2000 is $1000 and can run a Charger at 100 amps continuously, the 2200 I’m sure ought to be able to run one at 120 amps continuously.

That $1000 will save a whole lot of hours on your main engine, that isn’t a $1000.

Totally agree, if your a cruiser just get a quiet generator.
I'm using a Honda 1000, I hang it from a small platform attached to my jib halyard, and use bungee cords to secure it to the pulpit. I plug in my shore pwr. cord to the genset. 15a to 30a pwr. Adapter
This cancels the vibration from the set, not that there is much.
Please if you get a generator to use at anchor.
Find some way to make it quiet.
There's a lot of noise on the water, and it carries far.
SV Cloud Duster

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by DumnMad

Thanks a64.

I was thinking of steel corrosion being extremely fast if its polished frequently. e.g. splash-zone steel piles washed by wave moved sand. Bare steel will corode almost instantly but a film of corrosion slows right down if the rust coating is left in place.

Could be better to leave for 6 months and have one start-up rather than 3 start-ups at 2 month intervals or 6 at 1 month intervals.
Optimum Interval between start-ups will depend on how long the oil will keep the surface sealed against moisture.

Your correct, it’s pretty much well known in the aircraft world that if an engine will be laid up for an extended period to “pickle” it, if not pickled, then leave it alone, many think one should be turned over frequently, but that is more damaging than just leaving it alone, it scrapes any oil remaining off and as you say may expose more metal to corrosion.
Best to leave it be.
However when sitting in a marina, I still often run my engine and generator and place them under a load and run them until the reach operating temps.
I just can’t bring myself to leave it alone.

I’ve seen too many sit for an extended Marina stay only to find a seized engine when it’s time to leave, and you know what that costs.

So who knows for sure? A lot of this type of thing is based on just observation of existing fleets, I’m not aware of any real studies determining the best course of action.
There is a lot of data from general aviation, largely because they do a lot of sitting, and are very expensive engines. I’d say the average general aviation airplane may not fly more than once a month, and may sit for several months and not move.
Like a lot of boats, now that I think about it, seems usage rate may be very similar.

[Oceansailor]

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

But fortunately you don’t have to get fully charged every day

I consume around 200 Ah/day. After 3 cloudy days it is time to charge.
I reality my 900W in best case covers the daily consumption.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Dark Horse

This ^^^^^^. Running auxiliaries to make power is expensive in fuel and engine wear.

The Honda Generator I run uses 1/2 gallon in 8 to 10 hrs running time.
No wear on my main engine.
I run the generator, about 4 hrs total in 3 days.
Pretty small impact really.
SV Cloud Duster

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Oceansailor

Occasionally I have to run the engine for charge at anchor. Normally I run the engine @ 1900 RPM and get about 150A.

I do run the engine quite hard afterwards in order to burn out carbon deposits.

I’m looking at a new alternator as the old one have over 2000 hours.

Would it be a significant improvement (less carbon build up) I could manage the charge at lower RBM. Let’s say 1300-1500 RPM?

You could just put new brushes & bearings in your alternator as 2000hrs isn't that high, don't need to buy new if you don't wish too. If your engine is ecu controlled it probably doesn't make much difference at which of your suggested revs you run at. Agree with other posters suggestions of solar or a generator if you want to baby your propulsion engine then that takes the guesswork out of it.
We love our solar, much more peaceful & non-polluting as a bonus

[senormechanico]

Originally Posted by Oceansailor

Well. I have 900W solar. As long as there is sun I have no problem. Unfortunately all days are not sunny.

There is also the forest fire smoke in Canada.
With 560 watts of solar, we need to balance our vacation time around it.
If we're lucky, we're fat and happy with a ton of power.

We even use the inverter to make hot water after using the Spectra to make it.
Too early, lots of rain and no solar to speak of.
Too late, lots of smoke and no solar to speak of.