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mikedefieslife · 23-11-2017, 06:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by atoll

Attachment 159428the dodgy dodger bimini top installed!

i'm going to have to fire the boat boy as he neglected to clean the topsides

happy with the result which weighs about 50kg in total and feels very solid.
though i might add 2 lateral alloy stiffners between the cross beams to prevent sag fore and aft.

Not seen a Prout motorboat before. Doesn't look bad indeed. 🤣

50kg though, sounds heavy. I was expecting half that. Still, I suppose it is robust.

**atoll** · 23-11-2017, 06:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikedefieslife

Not seen a Prout motorboat before. Doesn't look bad indeed. ��

50kg though, sounds heavy. I was expecting half that. Still, I suppose it is robust.

using stainless tubes and a canvas cover for a full 3mx2m bimini top i would think would weigh in at around 30kg,and not be strong enough for large solar panels.

it would also probably cost 4 times more

Excalibur5 · 23-11-2017, 10:04

Here's more photos. I can take more detailed if you like, just know it is currently covered in 4" of snow.

Excalibur5 · 23-11-2017, 10:05

Note front windows are diamond seaglaze tempered, 5/8" thick, with wood frame surround.

mikedefieslife · 23-11-2017, 10:17

Where do your outhaul and furling line for the main enter the cockpit? and how do you seal them off then moored up in the rain?

Excalibur5 · 23-11-2017, 10:36

Here is another from the stern. The main sheet runs to its traveler car as shown in the picture. The outhaul goes to the end of the boom, with the roller furling line routed on the cabintop through a rope clutch.

I have a love / hate relationship to the roller furling main, but it is easier to use with the hard top.

While sailing we generally roll up all the rear curtains for ease of access.

**atoll** · 23-11-2017, 22:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Excalibur5

Here is another from the stern. The main sheet runs to its traveler car as shown in the picture. The outhaul goes to the end of the boom, with the roller furling line routed on the cabintop through a rope clutch.

I have a love / hate relationship to the roller furling main, but it is easier to use with the hard top.

While sailing we generally roll up all the rear curtains for ease of access.

thank you for posting the photos,this gives me a great picture on how the hard top can look once completed

i'm still not sure on how to deal with the termination of the covers or windscreen frame around the base of the mast and across the coach roof at the front,so any photos,even interiour shots would be usefull if you have any or (next time you are onboard)without having to clear snow!!

Excalibur5 · 23-11-2017, 23:18

Glad to help. Here are some pictures from earlier in the year. I have a cover on her for the winter, so seeing the details from the front is impossible, to say nothing of the 6" of new snow we got today. If you want any other detail shots from the inside I can take them tomorrow.

**atoll** · 23-11-2017, 23:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Excalibur5

Glad to help. Here are some pictures from earlier in the year. I have a cover on her for the winter, so seeing the details from the front is impossible, to say nothing of the 6" of new snow we got today. If you want any other detail shots from the inside I can take them tomorrow.

thanks ,i will copy and expand .
at the moment i have no mast base fitting,or rope clutches fitted,nor mast up!

so as well as having to build the base for the mast,i need to incorporate it into the design of the front cover for the hard top.

i see on the prout dodgers they have just cut a hole in the fiberglass molding,which is not ideal as it allows rain and wind to enter!

i see you have a canvas cover that goes around the front of the mast,and i would guess keeps things more watertight.

some detail shots from the inside of this set up would be great if it is not too much trouble

Buzzman · 24-11-2017, 15:43

Might be worth looking at ventpipe and drainpipe 'through roof' fittings, as there are several rubber-compound flexible fittings that might do most of the sealing work, with some 3M product doing the rest.

Of course, they're designed for cylindrical pipes, not ellipsoidal mast profiles, but might be worth shopping around. Anything with a high silcon content will be more flexible, and once painted, would be UV-safe for ever.

I mean, they're used on corrugated steel roofs in Australia. Don't get much more UV than that. So should be OK for a boat.

Excalibur5 · 24-11-2017, 18:23

Forgive the lousy pictures, it was dark by the time I got home. Here are some detail shots of the mast base, rope clutches, tabernacle, and the upper joint where the mast interacts with the top. For the mast to the top, there is about a 3" gap all around the mast. Then there is a piece of 1/2" HDPE that is fastened to the hard top, scribed to fit the mast. The minuscule gap between these is caulked. It doesn't leak. As you said before on the front we have a canvas cover to stop the rain and wind.

**atoll** · 25-11-2017, 05:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Excalibur5

Forgive the lousy pictures, it was dark by the time I got home. Here are some detail shots of the mast base, rope clutches, tabernacle, and the upper joint where the mast interacts with the top. For the mast to the top, there is about a 3" gap all around the mast. Then there is a piece of 1/2" HDPE that is fastened to the hard top, scribed to fit the mast. The minuscule gap between these is caulked. It doesn't leak. As you said before on the front we have a canvas cover to stop the rain and wind.

thank you for the detail shots,this gives me a good starting point for the design and placement of the forward screen supports

**atoll** · 31-01-2018, 02:44

i found these brave people on you tube,doing a similar project with a 37 ft dean cat that is very similar to the prout elite 37.

they are talking about doing the fit out in the space of a few weeks!

so far they have stripped the boat out to the stage i was roughly 2 years ago.
takes three times longer and costs twice as much comes to mind

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ok7CfsDbBg

**atoll** · 31-01-2018, 03:15

currently fitting in all the battoning and epoxying it in place to support the head liners,very boring and time consuming,so forgive the lack of posting

however the saloon, head and fwd cabins are done,so i will be able to start putting up the newly fabricated glass gelcoated headliner panels with insulation panels sandwiched behind.

next step after that is to fabricate the headliners with molded in trim for the hatch openings and windows.

a couple of photos from a few weeks back

**weavis** · 31-01-2018, 03:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by atoll

i found these brave people on you tube,doing a similar project with a 37 ft dean cat that is very similar to the prout elite 37.

they are talking about doing the fit out in the space of a few weeks!

so far they have stripped the boat out to the stage i was roughly 2 years ago.
takes three times longer and costs twice as much comes to mind

I think they are not going to do the same type of job.

Ive been watching the series from the beginning... I raise a glass to their enthusiasm...