Amel 50 - Build Thread

[boom23]

A couple more things that I am adding, for the future Amel 50 buyers...

I do not like battery operated remote controls. Remotes can get lost. Batteries tend to die at the most importune moments. Etc...

So, I will be adding foot controls for the windlass. Amel does not want to do it as they have had foot switch failures in the past. I understand their position, but I am willing to take the risk and I can add the switches myself. It is a very easy addition as there is an electrical box in the bow area with all the wires. That's where the wireless windlass control is connected.

A wired handheld remote would require the bow hatch to be open and this is a hazard. It is a big hatch and has about 6ft (2m) drop. It could do a lot of damage to a body...

I copied and pasted the SS Lewmar windlass switches (Part numbers: 68000888, 68000889) at an approximate location on to the bow picture. It should be correct size-wise.






I will also be adding a wired switch for the swim platform. The remote uses small coin cell batteries, which cannot have too much of a life. I circled the location of my proposed switch on the port davit under the railing. Amel is looking at the davit design to see if it is possible to add the switch at my proposed location. If not possible, I will add foot switches at the base of the port davit.

[Lost Horizons]

Congratulations with your new yacht!

[boom23]

Originally Posted by Lost Horizons

Congratulations with your new yacht!

Thank you! We are very excited.

[CbroTheDude]

Congrats, she looks wonderful!
I was wondering how many Amels are there sitting around in this marina from your pictures, and what are they doing here?

[boom23]

Originally Posted by CbroTheDude

Congrats, she looks wonderful!
I was wondering how many Amels are there sitting around in this marina from your pictures, and what are they doing here?

Thank you!

There are quite a few Amel 50, and other Amel, at the dock. I am guessing that the owners (from all over the world) are leaving them there until they (owners) are ready to start cruising. That is what we are doing. Some of the owners live in La Rochelle.

[Steve_C]

There are a massive number of remote wireless switches available today. Many use much better batteries and the cost is astoundingly low. I installed a $15 switch on my dust collection system in my wood shop that was meant to be temporary, until I could purchase a better one. The actual switch is in an outdoor location controlling a 1 1/2 HP motor and is used constantly, sometimes hundreds of times a day, and sometimes for long periods. Its going on 4 1/2 years and still has the same battery in the remote. I also have a spare remote in case its needed.

Having a second spare remote would be another easy fix for you. Or perhaps a wired backup control under the hatch to be used only if the remote quit at a bad time. Installing foot switches in the forward deck would be my last resort. You can always do it later if you feel its the only way, but I would certainly try other solutions before drilling in the deck!

Great Boat, thanks for sharing and CONGRATS!

[boom23]

Originally Posted by Steve_C

There are a massive number of remote wireless switches available today. Many use much better batteries and the cost is astoundingly low. I installed a $15 switch on my dust collection system in my wood shop that was meant to be temporary, until I could purchase a better one. The actual switch is in an outdoor location controlling a 1 1/2 HP motor and is used constantly, sometimes hundreds of times a day, and sometimes for long periods. Its going on 4 1/2 years and still has the same battery in the remote. I also have a spare remote in case its needed.

Having a second spare remote would be another easy fix for you. Or perhaps a wired backup control under the hatch to be used only if the remote quit at a bad time. Installing foot switches in the forward deck would be my last resort. You can always do it later if you feel its the only way, but I would certainly try other solutions before drilling in the deck!

Great Boat, thanks for sharing and CONGRATS!

Thank you!
I will check on the wireless remotes.

My first choice would have been to have a wired handheld remote, but it would require a slot on the hatch, or an open hatch. I do not want the hatch open, because as I mentioned, the hatch is large and it is a LONG drop inside. Also, I do not want to do a slot (for the cord) on the hatch either, as it compromises the water-tightness of the area. As it is now, water can only enter through the windlass chain tube, enter the watertight chain area and exit through the bow drains. The bow compartment stays dry.

The Lewmar 68000888 & 68000889 switches require 3 small (3.6mm) bolt holes and one small hole (9.5mm) for the wires. Here is the Lewmar switch document.

I already ordered the SS foot switches (USD $72 at Mauri Pro) to take with me to France. My plan is to use the current system for a while, and if it becomes a problem with Med mooring, I will install the foot switches.

It may be that the wireless windlass remote is perfectly fine. I like to have a backup plan.

At least the Lewmar windlass remote uses two AAA, which are easy to find. The Quick wireless remote for the swim platform uses CR2450 coin cell. I have spares but I have no idea how long they last. I do not plan to leave the swim platform down at night. A hardwired solution is simpler.

[Eleuthera 2014]

Hello Matey,

I have the solution advanced by Steve C in the above post; 2 remotes each with its own battery.

NO HOLES in your foredeck. Holes are generally expensive mistakes when made on a boat... :-)

Like you, I have helm control for the windlass as well as up/down switches on the windlass. But we prefer the wireless as the Admiral posts herself at the bow and chooses the exact spot to anchor. She is now a mistress at picking good holding sea floor spots for our 35 KG ULTRA. (NEVER let us down)
Enjoy.

[boom23]

Originally Posted by Eleuthera 2014

Hello Matey,

I have the solution advanced by Steve C in the above post; 2 remotes each with its own battery.

NO HOLES in your foredeck. Holes are generally expensive mistakes when made on a boat... :-)

Like you, I have helm control for the windlass as well as up/down switches on the windlass. But we prefer the wireless as the Admiral posts herself at the bow and chooses the exact spot to anchor. She is now a mistress at picking good holding sea floor spots for our 35 KG ULTRA. (NEVER let us down)
Enjoy.

It is good to hear from actual experience...

I will hold off installing the windlass foot switches. I'll use the remote (and get a backup if remote is sufficient), unless it does not work for us. Thank you for posting.

[sailcindy]

Boom23, have you experimented with deploying a snubber on the anchor chain? On our current boat we have a hook on the end of the snubber line. It is easy to lean over the bow (no bow sprit) and attach the hook to the anchor chain. On the AMEL 50 with bowsprit, we don’t think the hook will travel with chain through the anchor roller and it would be quite a reach to get to the chain under the bowsprit. Did the AMEL team teach the use of snubber in handover week? Your thoughts?

[boom23]

Originally Posted by sailcindy

Boom23, have you experimented with deploying a snubber on the anchor chain? On our current boat we have a hook on the end of the snubber line. It is easy to lean over the bow (no bow sprit) and attach the hook to the anchor chain. On the AMEL 50 with bowsprit, we don’t think the hook will travel with chain through the anchor roller and it would be quite a reach to get to the chain under the bowsprit. Did the AMEL team teach the use of snubber in handover week? Your thoughts?

Amel does not provide an anchor rode snubber. Based on what I saw, I plan to make a "Y" snubber. The two top ends will have loops for the cleats and will be spliced together before the bowsprit opening. The other end will have a thimble.

I'm afraid that a "V" anchor rode snubber, going under the bowsprit, will be rubbing on the bow fiberglass.

To attach to the chain I will use a soft shackle (going through a chain link), which does not scratch things or falls off the chain. If I need to attach to the anchor rode (I will splice about 30m of rode to the 100m chain), I use the Prusik knot with a dyneema loop and a soft shackle (or a Prusik knot with just a long soft shackle).
I also plan to use a rubber mooring snubber to reduce the length of the snubber line. I have to see if the rubber snubber fits through the bowsprit opening though.

With the above setup, you have to make sure the snubber line does not wrap around, or goes under, the anchor rode, which is under tension, when pulling up the anchor. I found this to be a minor infrequent problem.

For Med mooring with anchor, I will just use a sort nylon rode to take the strain off the windlass. I may also use a dyneema line going through a chain link and to a cleat. I have to see what's easier/better.

On my Lagoon 450, I had a Mantus anchor chain hook while in the S. Pacific. I replaced it with a soft shackle early on and never looked back. I found the soft shackle so much better. I never had a problem anchored in bad weather. I replaced it after the second season, just because I felt I should. I also gave soft shackles to fellow cruisers because they liked my setup better. They are easy to make and last almost forever.

[sailcindy]

Originally Posted by boom23

Amel does not provide an anchor rode snubber. Based on what I saw, I plan to make a "Y" snubber. The two top ends will have loops for the cleats and will be spliced together before the bowsprit opening. The other end will have a thimble.

I'm afraid that a "V" anchor rode snubber, going under the bowsprit, will be rubbing on the bow fiberglass.

To attach to the chain I will use a soft shackle (going through a chain link), which does not scratch things or falls off the chain. If I need to attach to the anchor rode (I will splice about 30m of rode to the 100m chain), I use the Prusik knot with a dyneema loop and a soft shackle (or a Prusik knot with just a long soft shackle).
I also plan to use a rubber mooring snubber to reduce the length of the snubber line. I have to see if the rubber snubber fits through the bowsprit opening though.

With the above setup, you have to make sure the snubber line does not wrap around, or goes under, the anchor rode, which is under tension, when pulling up the anchor. I found this to be a minor infrequent problem.

For Med mooring with anchor, I will just use a sort nylon rode to take the strain off the windlass. I may also use a dyneema line going through a chain link and to a cleat. I have to see what's easier/better.

On my Lagoon 450, I had a Mantus anchor chain hook while in the S. Pacific. I replaced it with a soft shackle early on and never looked back. I found the soft shackle so much better. I never had a problem anchored in bad weather. I replaced it after the second season, just because I felt I should. I also gave soft shackles to fellow cruisers because they liked my setup better. They are easy to make and last almost forever.

Interesting. Do both lines connected to splice go through the roller? Would love to see a video on this once you get it set up and further ideas if you find alternative solution.

[boom23]

Originally Posted by sailcindy

Interesting. Do both lines connected to splice go through the roller? Would love to see a video on this once you get it set up and further ideas if you find alternative solution.

I've used this setup on a Beneteau 49 and it works. I even have the rubber mooring snubber in line. It is compact and the mooring snubber makes up for the short length. Just have 4-5 wraps on the snubber (i.e. for heavy load). Or, you can have a much longer single leg.

I got the idea from the attached picture, minus the shackle and chain hook. I plan to use 8-plait line, which I've never spliced before.

[malbert73]

Originally Posted by boom23

I've used this setup on a Beneteau 49 and it works. I even have the rubber mooring snubber in line. It is compact and the mooring snubber makes up for the short length. Just have 4-5 wraps on the snubber (i.e. for heavy load). Or, you can have a much longer single leg.

I got the idea from the attached picture, minus the shackle and chain hook. I plan to use 8-plait line, which I've never spliced before.

Attachment 192171

Out of curiosity, why use this set up? Isn’t one cleat sufficient strength for your snubber?

Also, I like having my snubber cleated rather than an eye so if I have to let out rode in a blow I don’t have to bring in chain and de-tension the snubber or cut it.

Soft shackles are another case for this because you can just cast the attached snubber off and leave it attached to the chain, and attach a second snubber once you’ve let the chain out.

[boom23]

Originally Posted by malbert73

Out of curiosity, why use this set up? Isn’t one cleat sufficient strength for your snubber?

Also, I like having my snubber cleated rather than an eye so if I have to let out rode in a blow I don’t have to bring in chain and de-tension the snubber or cut it.

Soft shackles are another case for this because you can just cast the attached snubber off and leave it attached to the chain, and attach a second snubber once you’ve let the chain out.

You make a good point...
I've had to let out more chain on my ex catamaran (with a V bridle) in a very strong blows and it was fun pulling up chain to reach the bridle attachment point... I did not question it because I had a catamaran.

Now, with a monohull I have more options... I will have to rethink the setup. The good thing about using a rubber snubber is that I don't need a long line for shock absorption. So, less than 3 meters of chain/rode to pull in.

A single attachment on the bow should be fine also. I like symmetry, I guess.

Thanks for the comments. There's always room for improvement.