Display monitor for boat computer - 12 volt DC or 100/240 volt AC?

[fxykty]

I’m building a boat computer using a Raspberry Pi 4 with HDMI out to a display. I want at least 24” and possibly larger, depending on power draw. The display is for interacting with the Pi (router settings, computer admin) and working with OpenCPN for planning, weather analysis, and some real time navigation. The display would not be used 24/7.

I see very few 12 volt monitors and they’re relatively expensive, at least triple of an AC monitor. I kind of like having the monitor on DC just like all the other instruments, but the current draw is pretty high (one 24” 12 volt TV drew 25 amps) and there are a whole lot more options in AC. We keep our inverter running most of the time.

Any thoughts either way?

[Dsanduril]

We have bought several monitors in that size range with external brick power supplies that put out 12V. Hard to find in the specs, just have to wander around the electronics stores and look at the power bricks. Last one we got was in Christchurch, so should be around. Don't have the model # handy at the moment. Runs fine on the boat system with voltage from 12.x to 14.4V. Ours draws about 2A on the brightest setting, a bit less with the brightness turned down. We got one with two HDMI inputs so we could use it for charting (one Pi) or entertainment (a separate Pi with OSMC).

One caution, the electronics industry seems to be moving toward 19V so more and more of the external bricks are 19V and finding 12V is becoming a bit more difficult.

[Edit] we got the last one (it fell on a wave and got destroyed) at PBTech, I see there is one in Auckland. Probably ASUS or LG. Wandered around the store and checked the DC inputs on the monitors, found two or three that were 12V, then selected based on power usage and picture quality.[/edit]

[kcj]

I am using Both a Samsung and a lg monitor. One is 14v and one is 19v, run off house bank using adjustable dc-dc boost converter from amazon.. about $5. Been rock solid for over a year. Great screen and love opencpn/plotter on the pi...

Don.t need a 12v, just one that does not plug ac into the screen itself...

[Dsanduril]

One other feature that is go/no go for us is a VESA mount. Monitors with proprietary mounts, some of which as snap-on in a recess are a pain to attach to something on the boat. Having a VESA mount allows us build something pretty easily.

If you have the same curved nav table as us (I think you do) we have a 'U' shaped bracket that fits over the trim/fiddle on the shelf above the nav table and attaches to a standard VESA mount.

[TEM58]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Box-BC63...Y8WGJJZ3FAJ97A

This gets you a very clean, stable 19v output (you can select a couple of outputs) along with several other very useful control options. I’ve used it to run an Intel NUC in a field location. Also ended up using a TV with 12v power brick rather than a monitor. Much cheaper.

[fxykty]

Thanks very much everyone, looking for displays with a transformer brick makes sense. Even though many of the newer ones now use 19v I figure putting in a dc-dc step up voltage converter takes care of that even for 14v ones: 6-14v in, 11-26v out with 2.0 amps https://www.jaycar.co.nz/dc-to-dc-st...odule/p/AA0237.

[Simi 60]

24 inch 12v TV for $139


https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/kogan-2...ries-5-dh5000/

I've used TVs as monitor/TV for years
40inch we have is great for gaming.

[Dsanduril]

Most of the buck/boost power supplies are switch mode power supplies of some kind and they tend to be radio noisy. I've had a bunch of different ones (still do), some of them need to be shutdown when using the SSB for email, gribs, etc.

[hoolie]

We have a Samsung 24" monitor that had a 12v power brick. It works just fine over the range of voltages on our services bank. It has a VESA mount too so easy to install, though I had to remove the foot assembly for desktop mounting to fit it in. The only negative is it doesn't have built-in speakers

[Nicholson58]

I needed a small monitor for a repeater from my Simrad that was mounted at the nav station. Small was necessary for space constraints and for power consumption. I used Xenarc. They make the monitors used in aircraft seating and over the road trucks. I see they hav expanded into Marine as well. Our 8” screen is very high resolution and has been faultless for 5 years. The LED backlighting is low power use. It is DC.


Home page
https://www.xenarc.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQ...oaAgoyEALw_wcB

Waterproof
https://www.xenarc.com/Waterproof-Monitors/

[Wallaby]

A few years back, I wanted a computer monitor in the cockpit for opencpn, internet browsing, watching movies, etc. It needed to be daylight readable, touch screen, waterproof, 12v, and 15-inches minimum. The solution I came up with cost about $500.



The company also has integral computers built into the monitor, making them ideal as chartplotter replacements. FYI, I was so impressed, I considered importing them into the USA, and reselling.



You can find the company on Alibaba. SHENZHEN SHINHO ELECTRONIC TECHNOLOGY
or email Amy at
amy@shinhoet.com

[NahanniV]

Even though many of the external brick power supplies are 19V the monitors will run happily connected directly to a boats 12V house bank.

I have cut the 19V power bricks off of several (LG, Samsung, HP) monitors and connected them directly to 12V. All that I have done have worked fine.

A 24” Energy Star rated monitor will draw about 25W at full brightness. If you have it installed at a dark nav station you can reduce that by about half by adjusting the backlight. In fact, with many monitors you can’t get them to go dim enough for nighttime use.

[Tumblewoods]

IMHO you’re wasting power going from battery to inverter to tv. Better off trying to run it all on 12v.
As far as monitors victron make a blue tooth one which is fantastic for around $300 including shunt

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by NahanniV

. In fact, with many monitors you can’t get them to go dim enough for nighttime use.

Flux or Twilight take care of that

[Tumblewoods]

IMHO. It’s a boat. Keep power draw as low as you can. So avoid an inverter, stick to 12v and pick the most efficient 11v screen you can.