Anchoring: What am I doing wrong?

[jackdale]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

To help your wife break the the anchor out, have her cleat off the line (or chain) when near vertical, then motor ahead to break it loose.

Motor astern - less wear and tear on the gelcoat.

[jackdale]

Originally Posted by Dkdoyle

I have a better idea. She drives and you pull the anchor.

[zeehag]

Originally Posted by Dkdoyle

I have a better idea. She drives and you pull the anchor.

now THAT is an idea....

[Shrew]

Agreed, snubbing the chain and powering the anchor off is most likely what we'll be doing. I offered to swap roles, and she is less crazy about that, but that is a completely different discussion. I purposely avoided powering the anchor free to see exactly what we were dealing with the first time and whether it's doable or not. It's doable. We were actually pleased with how well set the anchor was.

When given the choice, I would rather have an anchor that is difficult to free when my motor is running and we're ready to go, than the alternative.

[senormechanico]

After the chain's vertical, if there's any swell, let it rachet up the anchor.
Each time the boat drops, take up the small amount of slack.
After a few waves, it'll pop right out.

[Dkdoyle]

Based on your experience i will have to start thinking about using the bahamian moor technique. Would not do me any good to go heavier since i couldn't lift it and a windless is out of reach for now.

[S/V Alchemy]

Nothing wrong with Bahamian moor, or a hammerlock, or tandem...The point is to become conversant with deploying them without screwing up your gear in mild conditions, so that they can work to save your stern when things pipe up and you start veering a bit.

[ShipAssist]

From your narrative only two things can be the problem.


You do report paying out enough rode, 7 to 1, 10 to 1... that ratio also should include from the water line to your cleat.


You really should have about 5 to 7 ft of chain leading from the anchor to your braided line. The chain will keep the braided line mostly flat along the lake bed.

[mrcarson]

Look at a "ships "Anchor. It just lays there. The chain does the job.
I've used a CQR Copy and/or Bruce for near 50 yrs. 32/42 steel boats (heavy).
Danforth types for a stern anchor or brake only.
The ONLY pick system I lay to in BAD weather Is that/whichever pick. with an 82lb Admiralty pick with welded oversize blades on tines. On 40ft of 8mm chain set in front of it. Or both set on own chains/fairleads around 40 Deg apart.They have yet to fail me. even in weed. That admiralty holds everything from sand to weed. If my test drop bomb (lead with grease in end) shows shale. I go elsewhere.or keep sailing.
An OVERSIZED Admiralty pick with oversized blades is probably the most underestimated of all picks.
I carry mine on outside of rails with it's short chain in a deck box. shackle ready.
I can lay it ahead of either on bow rollers. or in place of either on their chains.
Just winch up to end of main chain and hand haul the pick itself.
This is for coastal sailing.
Offshore. Just the 2 set on bows. anything else. Ballast in bilged. strapped down.
If everything breaks down (no drive) first thing you do if aproaching coast is lay out FULL Chain with pick on end.
100/120 mtrs of drag should catch and hold you well offshore (IE. OUTSIDE of surfline) b4 you park on beach
Ride it out bouncing on water not any hard stuff. Have fun.

[mrcarson]

Originally Posted by ShipAssist

From your narrative only two things can be the problem.


You do report paying out enough rode, 7 to 1, 10 to 1... that ratio also should include from the water line to your cleat.


"""You really should have about 5 to 7 ft of chain leading from the anchor to your braided line.""""

The chain will keep the braided line mostly flat along the lake bed.

-----------------------------

Preferably,, The min length of chain should be length of boat.
5 to 7 ft. a few gusts or a blow. You'll be going backwards.

[Stu Jackson]

FWIW, this thread is from 2011.