STORM PREPARATION AT SEA

[a64pilot]

For the pump guys. I don’t have one of these but have considered it.
Apparently if your driveshaft is turning it’s pumping, when there is no water it’s just a bilge evacuation fan, pumping air.
But it requires you to do nothing to put it into use except crank the engine and put it in gear, and it can move a phenomenal amount of water, as long as your engine is running.

I don’t have one, have not even seen one, just the design is intriguing. KISS.
http://www.fastflowpump.com/Bilge.html

[Training Wheels]

Always thought those were interesting. But here’s a thought, if you’re taking on water, how fast do you want to be motoring?

[a64pilot]

Depends of course on how you took on the water. But just as a guess, I’d have to say fast enough to keep from sinking?

[estarzinger]

meanwhile . . . tour de France is running. . . crashes with broken bones every day so far except for the team time trial (when the riders are separated)

[Kanani]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

For the pump guys. I don’t have one of these but have considered it.
Apparently if your driveshaft is turning it’s pumping, when there is no water it’s just a bilge evacuation fan, pumping air.
But it requires you to do nothing to put it into use except crank the engine and put it in gear, and it can move a phenomenal amount of water, as long as your engine is running.

I don’t have one, have not even seen one, just the design is intriguing. KISS.
Fast Flow Pumps - Bilge Pump

The #1 issue with ANY pump, after a knock down or roll-over, is that the bilge may be filled with debris. If that happens, any pump can get stopped up.

The better thing to do is to secure your bilge so that debris cannot get in. Paper and books are your worst nightmare if they get in the bilge.

Be sure that your cabin sole, bilge boards are fitted with locks that will keep the boards in place if the boat is lifted in the air by a big wave and dropped, upside down.

Most boats will survive that scenario without sinking but the devastation can be unbelievably traumatic and demoralizing. I have seen FAR too many vessels abandoned at sea only for the boat to be found sometime later either drifting at sea or laying on a beach or rocks somewhere.

[daletournier]

Originally Posted by Training Wheels

Always thought those were interesting. But here’s a thought, if you’re taking on water, how fast do you want to be motoring?

That's my issue with that setup. I want to pump independently from motoring the boat.

[Pelagic]

Originally Posted by daletournier

That's my issue with that setup. I want to pump independently from motoring the boat.

With my setup, you dont need to be in gear.

With my 2" crash pump, I am pumping out 60 GPM at idle

[Kanani]

Originally Posted by Pelagic

With my setup, you dont need to be in gear.

With my 2" crash pump, I am pumping out 60 GPM at idle

I had the same set-up. Thankfully never had to use it. However the issue is still the same. If the bilge is full of debris...... any pump, electric, hand, prop driven or engine driven will probably fail.

If you can keep debris out of the bilge, most any pump will continue to work. It's just that some will be faster than others with the engine driven pump being best (if the engine will run). I had my pump attached to my 2-cylinder Kubota diesel along with a high output generator and dive compressor. That engine was mounted higher up in the engine room and less vulnerable to flooding.

[Pelagic]

My engine room is pretty much isolated from accommodation debris.
Steel bulkhead aft all the way to deck with sufficient but snall limber holes to strain any contamination.
Fwd bulkhead is all fuel tanks to height of pilothouse with piping to equalize bilge water from fwd.

tthe 2" engine driven pump has a large strum box around its own strainer, so while some debris may find its way to the strum box (at deepest point under engine).... there is enough natural drainage openings, but of small caliber to keep relatively clean water flowing towards the pump.

[p435]

Originally Posted by Kanani

OH!!! an add-on........ My advise on life-rafts....... never try to get in one. They are a death sentence. Your best life raft is your boat. Spend that time saving your boat.

Thanks for that advice as well. I do feel the same but fortunately lack the experience.



Also thanks for your longer post about sea-anchor etc.

[Snowpetrel]

I think another key component is mental preparation. I think you really have to be psychologically prepared for a bad knockdown, capsize or dismasting. It's a remote but ever present possibility once waves get around 30% of your length in height. Active and appropriate tactics may reduce the likelyhood but can never remove the possibility.

Have a plan for this happening. And put it into action to establish control and reduce the chance of panic if something unexpected happens.

Some ideas off the top of my head are

1) Headcount and injury check for all crew. Get helmets on crew (if carried), proper footwear and warm clothes. Gloves are a if they are digging around in bilges to prevent cuts.

2)Stabilise the boat, with drogue or sea anchor if carried. If not this may be a good time to start the engine and slow steam into the waves (checking prop is clear first!). Heaving too may also be an option.

3) make the boat watertight, try to scoop up the worst of the debris inside before everything turns to mush.

4) bale/pump out any water. Try to stop pumps blocking and burning out. Baling by bucket may mean having someone to open the hatch, then close it after each bucketload. A small bucket may be able to be poored down the sink drain. Small buckets are much better than big full ones.

5) check for damage to systems inside. Steering, keel, engine, radio, batteries, survival gear. Check stern tube and seacocks and other vulnerable and critical bits. Hopefully water level is going down.

6) comms to outside source advising them of the situation amd position but stress that ALL IS OK ONBOARD. (Say this loudly to reassure crew, even if you are feeling a bit shaken). Check AIS, nav lights and battery levels. Turn off all unneeded circuits.

7) tidy up worst of the mess, dealing with the most dangerous heavy stuff first. Try to sort out junk from essentials somehow. Prehaps junk into the focs'l, essentials into the toilet area.

Crew to go ondeck if safe and check outside for damage, and secure sails and loose ropes. Hatch needs to be locked behind them. Extra lashings on liferaft and dinghys.

8) get unneeded crew into dry clothes, tell a few jokes. A bit of food and sleep, and set a revised watch roster.

9) check the forecast and develop a longer term plan, but don't sweat it too much yet. For the most part you might be better to sleep on it, and await better conditions (if forcast) before trying to fix stuff too much.

10) chances are rare that the boat will be knocked down again in moderate conditions. If it does keep happening a change of storm tactics needs to be considered.

[p435]

Thanks to all for the very interesting posts.


Additionally to all mono-hull related posts, I would like to read also posts related to catamarans.



With this post I hope to trigger some catamaran sailors to write about their preparations and/or storm experience.

[Saleen411]

Originally Posted by p435

Thanks to all for the very interesting posts.


Additionally to all mono-hull related posts, I would like to read also posts related to catamarans.



With this post I hope to trigger some catamaran sailors to write about their preparations and/or storm experience.

There is an old "Multihull Storm Tactics" thread that I tried to revive. No interest evidently.

[Taipe]

When performing a sea trial deployment of my Jordan Drogue, am going to attach a 5/16" floating line of braided yellow polypropylene to the tail where the weight chain is attached. Retrieval will be done by winching in the polypropylene line which brings the drogue back aboard in reverse, closing the Drogue pockets, which greatly reduces its resistance. The Drogue is 600' long and the retrieval line will need to be about 25' longer to allow it to float and thereby prevent it from fouling the Drogue pockets. I'll give our group feedback on how this works out a few months from now when I am back aboard.

[El Pinguino]

Originally Posted by Taipe

When performing a sea trial deployment of my Jordan Drogue, am going to attach a 5/16" floating line of braided yellow polypropylene to the tail where the weight chain is attached. Retrieval will be done by winching in the polypropylene line which brings the drogue back aboard in reverse, closing the Drogue pockets, which greatly reduces its resistance. The Drogue is 600' long and the retrieval line will need to be about 25' longer to allow it to float and thereby prevent it from fouling the Drogue pockets. I'll give our group feedback on how this works out a few months from now when I am back aboard.

That is recommended procedure with the Seabrake.... with the addition of a small polystyrene buoy threaded onto the line down near the tail....