Wireless Switching

[thinwater]

Chandleries carry wireless remotes for windlasses and trolling motor, but that's about it.


On a recent thread I suggested that many loads might better be controlled by switches to free up breaker space, but also to put the switch were it was more useful. For example, nav and deck light switches make sense at the helm.


Has anyone tried wireless witches for any of these? You can get these waterproof and with both a fob and panel switch for $24 on Amazon. Obviously, some helms are better protected than others.


https://www.amazon.com/SRDKG-Waterpr...ps%2C97&sr=8-6

[Sailorman Ed]

We used a wireless fob, worked great! I loved how I could walk around the bows, find a sandy spot and drop the anchor. Same with retrieval , easy to stop and remove the bridle.

[brazenarticle]

I've been using Shelly 1L and shelly Uni relays for the last couple years for switches, temperature and voltage monitors. They can be controlled from a phone or tablet, programmed for various actions and can be used with voice control from Amazon Alexa, Google or similar. There are physical buttons that connect to the relay by wifi, so a relay mounted behind the distribution panel can have a button at the helm.

Mine are wired behind the panel and set up they can be controlled as usual by switching the breaker, generally the breaker is left in the on position and control is by phone, voice, internal program, etc. I added led lights I know what is on or off.

Example, the LPG solenoid when on is programmed to turn off automatically in 30 minutes. If I need more time for baking or something I can tell Alexa to turn on the gas for whatever minutes I want. The primary purpose is to turn it off when not is use, if I forget the timer does that.
Same for the water pressure pump so a drip doesn't empty the tank.
I'll do the anchor light when I have time, the Shelly can time for sunset/sunrise depending on location data or just set it for a specific time.
Be careful, if you fall down the rabbit hole all sorts of possibilities arise. Following websites such as boathackers.com and others I now have custom dashboards local and internet enabled to remotely control Victron devices and other switches, check fridge, freezer and outdoor temps and look around the boat with blink cameras.

[Matt Johnson]

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...yAdapt=glo2usa

I've been testing these for the overhead lights since I wanted light switches in the normal house positions, but didn't want the run wires through bulkheads. Four of these have been going for two years now without issue.

And this too - it looks nicer, but doesn't have dimmer

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...yAdapt=glo2usa

[Constellation49]

The off-road industry has a few options for remote/wireless switches. The Apps allow you to customize your switch for multiple applications. Few examples timers, voltage control to dim, on/off based on time of day etc.

We will likely use these when the time arrives to start wiring our boat.

https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/718849

https://www.switchpros.com/

[Matt Johnson]

Like Constellation49, It's also kinda the reason we went with digital switching on the new build. I have two 31 circuit units that we're installing forward port and aft starboard to allow everything to have it's own breaker - it allows me to monitor current flow of anything installed on the boat - and I can control it from the main panel or any of the onboard chartplotters or wifi device. In theory, it can also control momentary switching like the anchor windlass from the chartplotter too.

We're using the Simarine units, but C-zone and Maretron make similar systems.

[thinwater]

I can see complex digital switching for larger boats and new builds. You can solve a lot of problems at once and save a lot of walking. I was going to follow up with that question.



But this was more for smaller boats or for people with just a few awkward switch locations. For example, my PDQ has an excellent electrical system, but there are just a few switches that could be moved. Mostly just the deck light--it would be nice to toggle that on from the helm. A fob plus a wireless switch near the panel does it. I could also toggle it to find my boat at night! Digital switching would bring no improvements that matter to me.

[SailingHarmonie]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Chandleries carry wireless remotes for windlasses and trolling motor, but that's about it.


On a recent thread I suggested that many loads might better be controlled by switches to free up breaker space, but also to put the switch were it was more useful. For example, nav and deck light switches make sense at the helm.


Has anyone tried wireless witches for any of these? You can get these waterproof and with both a fob and panel switch for $24 on Amazon. Obviously, some helms are better protected than others.


https://www.amazon.com/SRDKG-Waterpr...ps%2C97&sr=8-6

I have used a collection of wireless hardware from Shelly to organize and make convenient our external lighting. It has only been compatible with 24V systems, but it has worked well. Now we can have smart switches for each light configuration at the helm, and the nav station without the hassle of running wires all over the boat.

The switches can be smart enough to configure the lights, and turn on pilot lights as well. It requires a working network and some basic network knowledge, but has proven to be reliable and flexible for us.

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by SailingHarmonie

I have used a collection of wireless hardware from Shelly to organize and make convenient our external lighting. It has only been compatible with 24V systems, but it has worked well. Now we can have smart switches for each light configuration at the helm, and the nav station without the hassle of running wires all over the boat.

The switches can be smart enough to configure the lights, and turn on pilot lights as well. It requires a working network and some basic network knowledge, but has proven to be reliable and flexible for us.

What switches are you using with the Shelly? The I keep running into is finding compatible 12v physical smart switches.

[donradcliffe]

Originally Posted by Matt Johnson

Like Constellation49, It's also kinda the reason we went with digital switching on the new build. I have two 31 circuit units that we're installing forward port and aft starboard to allow everything to have it's own breaker - it allows me to monitor current flow of anything installed on the boat - and I can control it from the main panel or any of the onboard chartplotters or wifi device. In theory, it can also control momentary switching like the anchor windlass from the chartplotter too.

We're using the Simarine units, but C-zone and Maretron make similar systems.

Last weekend on a C-Zone boat was an unmitigated disaster. Ended up hotwiring VHF and AIS, and went with no B&G system. Some
C-Zone documentation says there is a way to bypass the digital switch, but could not find any on this install. My advice was to rip out the C-zone and put in another breaker panel. Just imagine dealing with this mid-ocean.

[SailingHarmonie]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

Last weekend on a C-Zone boat was an unmitigated disaster. Ended up hotwiring VHF and AIS, and went with no B&G system. Some
C-Zone documentation says there is a way to bypass the digital switch, but could not find any on this install. My advice was to rip out the C-zone and put in another breaker panel. Just imagine dealing with this mid-ocean.

Don’t bother reading the manual, just rip it out!

Geez….

In every C-zone box you simply move a blade fuse to another location, and the attached device turns on. It might not be obvious, but to anybody who had a passing relationship with the manual, it is easy and effective. For any remote controlled switch the ABYC requires a way to bypass it in the event of network failure.

[brazenarticle]

Originally Posted by Matt Johnson

What switches are you using with the Shelly? The I keep running into is finding compatible 12v physical smart switches.

You can use the existing breaker/switches in line with the Shelly 1L or UNI and program it so any switch action from the breaker, a phone, tablet or computer command or voice command through Alexa/Google etc turns if from on to off or off to on. Time on, time off or conditional responses can be set up in the shelly device and they remain in effect if it is powered off then restarted.
These are esp8266 or esp32 devices but they run off 12 volts and have a decent app and interface.
Shelly and others make physical wifi pushbuttons, I find it easier to access stuff from phones, tablets, computer or voice on a local network. For the most part I can control anything upgraded from anywhere on the boat or remotely via the local network or the internet.
It's nice to have the convenience but if it all gives up the ghost in the middle of a storm I'll simply be back to throwing switches on the distribution panel.

[SailingHarmonie]

Originally Posted by brazenarticle

You can use the existing breaker/switches in line with the Shelly 1L or UNI and program it so any switch action from the breaker, a phone, tablet or computer command or voice command through Alexa/Google etc turns if from on to off or off to on. Time on, time off or conditional responses can be set up in the shelly device and they remain in effect if it is powered off then restarted.
These are esp8266 or esp32 devices but they run off 12 volts and have a decent app and interface.
Shelly and others make physical wifi pushbuttons, I find it easier to access stuff from phones, tablets, computer or voice on a local network. For the most part I can control anything upgraded from anywhere on the boat or remotely via the local network or the internet.
It's nice to have the convenience but if it all gives up the ghost in the middle of a storm I'll simply be back to throwing switches on the distribution panel.

Exactly like he said…

[donradcliffe]

Originally Posted by SailingHarmonie

Don’t bother reading the manual, just rip it out!

Geez….

In every C-zone box you simply move a blade fuse to another location, and the attached device turns on. It might not be obvious, but to anybody who had a passing relationship with the manual, it is easy and effective. For any remote controlled switch the ABYC requires a way to bypass it in the event of network failure.

I read the manual on line, and then I looked at the output boxes.

There were 2 boxes, each with 6 circuits with blade fuses. The boxes were buried, but my helper took a cell picture to verify there was NO second fuse location. I guess you got fooled by the same manual.

[mcarthur]

Originally Posted by brazenarticle

It's nice to have the convenience but if it all gives up the ghost in the middle of a storm I'll simply be back to throwing switches on the distribution panel.

So if the Shelley's give up the ghost, and they are inline, then manual breaker isn't going to work since the power is still trying (and failing presumably) to go through the (burnt out, failed,...) Shelley.

Surely you'd have to be running the lines in parallel, not inline, with manual from breaker on one line and breaker plus Shelley on the other?