Treating Wet Flooring

[Hudson Force]

I recently had a leak at a fresh water fitting under my forward head sink which I only discovered when I found water seeping between my bilge ceiling and my wood flooring at the step of my main mast.

Of course my first step was to repair the leak and then dry the run of water seepage under a locker and across a couple feet of my flooring, but I'm sure moisture and the potential for rot remains under my teak and holly layer.

I've heard that the ethylene glycol in engine antifreeze is an excellent fungicide and I'm considering running some along the same path from my head to the mast step as a precaution against rot.

So, opinions, cautions, alternate ideas...... What do you think?

[Lepke]

I use borate. I get it in powdered form from a log home supply. I mix it with water and apply it with a garden sprayer. I have a wood boat so also put some straight powder in the bilge. It's the only approved wood preservative I know of. It's not as good as the pre EPA preservatives, but better than nothing.

[GordMay]

Yes, ethylene glycol is an effective fungicide.
➥ The Effect of Ethylene Glycol and Sodium Borate Solutions on the Adhesion of Epoxy to White Oak and White Pine Samples.

[La Porte Rouge]

How did you dry out the flooring? If you didn't use a dehumidifier, then I would strongly suggest getting one and running it for two or three days.

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by La Porte Rouge

How did you dry out the flooring? If you didn't use a dehumidifier, then I would strongly suggest getting one and running it for two or three days.

I'm currently at a marina with shore power and my air conditioners running. They do remove much of the ambient moisture from the air and I've used a small fan on the specific two foot run with the fan aimed at the end grain of the laminates under a seat locker.

Just this morning I poured a cup of ethylene glycol at the source point of the original water run.

After this anti-fungal treatment and drying I'm planning to inject some wood glue and weight the floor down for a term. Presently, there's a bit of a "bubble" with a little movement to the top laminate. ....we'll see.

'and thanks GordMay for the article exposing the decreased adhesion resulting from the ethylene glycol use. I will not be adverse to using some fasteners with bungs for this short run. Fortunately, I'm not dealing with any veneer, but I have a full 3/8" of finished wood over the 1" sub flooring.

[rognvald]

Hud,
I've used acetone as a fungicide and accelerator for drying wood. It will not leave a residue as antifreeze. If there is some rot or you need to re-laminate the subfloor to the teak overlay, check out CPES. I have used it successfully on several projects. It is a scientific product and bulletproof. Good luck on your project. CPES™-Wood based epoxy products to repair and resist wood rot.

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by rognvald

.................
............... If there is some rot or you need to re-laminate the subfloor to the teak overlay, check out CPES. I have used it successfully on several projects. ......................

Thanks, I am not aware of any rot, but I think I'd do best to assume that the fungi is present and a threat.

[rognvald]

Originally Posted by Hudson Force

Thanks, I am not aware of any rot, but I think I'd do best to assume that the fungi is present and a threat.

Hud,
If you flush the area with acetone, it will kill any fungi. Once dried, the CPES can be used to re-laminate the subfloor. If you have access, you can use clamps. If not, wood screws. The advantage of the CPES is that it is microscopically thinner than traditional epoxy and will fill any voids, however small, for a complete seal. It also solidifies any potential soft spots that might have developed over the years. Good luck.