Portable Air Conditioning

[anotherT34C]

I use a small portable basement A/C, with the exhaust ducted to a portlight. It’s only for hot summer days at dock, and goes into a closet onboard otherwise. I was able to scrub out my port water tank during the hottest week in July.

Boat is a Baba 40. Smallish saloon by modern cruising yacht standards.

[DanCan]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I have only a couple of times run them on the generator. Last year it got Africa Hot, I mean near 100F on the ICW coming back to Jax. I ran it a couple of hours then.

Then three or four years ago leaving Brunswick after Christmas it was cold enough that we had a small ice storm, I ran them then for a couple of hours.

That’s about it cruising wise, however if I”m in a marina plugged into shore power, like right now, they stay on pretty much 24/7.

The 5 kw pulls I think about 4 amps, the 16K about 11 amps.

The inrush current for the 16K is huge, 70 amps locked rotor, so I installed a hard start kit a few years ago which helped some. I just a week or so ago installed a soft start, and now the Honda can start and run it in Eco mode, it’s as if there is no inrush current anymore, just a slow climb in amps until it stops at about 11.

Thank you for the explanation. 11 amp/hr seems high but obviously you mostly run from shore. I can see they are effective. I had one in a small apartment but with 2 hoses, one in one out makes them do the job well. Thank you again!

[Cyrus Safdari]

You can install the window units over a hatch if you make a 90 degree duct for the cool air to go down the hatch, thus not blocking up the companion way though reducing cool air output perhaps.

[wsmurdoch]

Originally Posted by Cyrus Safdari

You can install the window units over a hatch if you make a 90 degree duct for the cool air to go down the hatch, thus not blocking up the companion way though reducing cool air output perhaps.

This works like a charm and is cheap. I have done it twice. Once with 1/2" plywood and once with 1" unfaced polyurethane foam. A foam box is easier to make needing only a framing square, a bread knife, and epoxy glue; not a table saw. Foam is a better insulator and does not suffer from condensation on its outside. In both cases I added an interior baffle to separate the stream of warm cabin air coming into the unit from the cooled air returning to the cabin. The baffle formed a diagonal and added greatly to the rigidity of the box. Properly done the LED display was visible, and and the remote easily controlled the air conditioner. The window air conditioner rested atop the deck on blocks of scraps so that it sloped as designed a bit down towards its hot air discharge end. With ratchet straps holding the box down and foam gaskets between the box, the boat, and the air conditioner, the assembly was (is) rain proof. Without them, a tarp tied over the box made it waterproof. I painted both boxes inside and out with latex house paint to make them both prettier and easier to clean. With all the gear outside the boat, there was (is) more room for me inside the boat.

Bill

[Cyrus Safdari]

The baffle is a good improvement

I've seen fabric wind scoops used for short term funneling of the cooler air down the hatch

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by DanCan

Thank you for the explanation. 11 amp/hr seems high but obviously you mostly run from shore. I can see they are effective. I had one in a small apartment but with 2 hoses, one in one out makes them do the job well. Thank you again!

Those are permanently installed Marine AC’s, I have a portable. Used it in the house we rented before we started cruising, but I have not put it on a boat.