How do I repair this anchor shackle?

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by jbinbi

... I don't own an angle grinder, just a hacksaw. Don't know how long it would take to saw thru both sides. Maybe a battery powered sawzall with a metal cutting blade?

An angle grinder is probably the second power tool you should buy (also used for heavy sanding and shaping). Buy one.

I would actually use bolt cutters. But they are not as generally needed around a boat. But I have them.

[jimbunyard]

Am I missing something here? Is that not a square drive socket head in the center of the pin? If so, it is likely a 1/4" or 3/8" or 1/2" drive (it's rather difficult to judge scale in the picture). One might have to use a sharp instrument, say an ice pick or knife blade to clean or scrape the socket out a bit, but it'd be a lot easier to just unscrew it, or at least try to, before resorting to all these heroic measures...whatever happened to KISS?

[model 10]

[QUOTE=thinwater;2407641]An angle grinder is probably the second power tool you should buy (also used for heavy sanding and shaping). Buy one.


An overzealous water cop in California once locked our boat to a mooring ball with a chain and lock. It took me about 30 sec to get the grinder out and cut the lock.

[JPA Cate]

A hacksaw will do the job, and I'll bet he can do it in 5 minutes. If he has the yard do it, it'll cost $100 or so, and the guys will cut it, grinder or bolt cutters. His choice.

Ann

[noelex 77]

Yes just cut it off. I would use an angle grinder, but these can be a little dangerous if you are not experienced. It will only take 5mins with a hacksaw. Usually it is also worth also cutting away the last couple of links of chain as these suffer the most wear, but in the photo your chain looks good. Use eye protection and as Ann and Matt have indicated (but its worth repeating) don't cut steel on the deck unless you are looking for the spotted rust look.

Replace it with a rated shackle from a recognised company. The high test galvanised shackles are slightly dearer but having a shackle that you are confident is at least as strong as the chain even with side loading is good peace of mind.

If you can try the shackle it worth checking the chosen model that cannot become jammed on the shank. Anchors struggle to work if the pull is from an eccentric location. Often Bow shackles are preferred although the existing model looks like a "D" shackle.

[puffcard]

Don't most have a large bolt cutters, big enough to cut their rigging. If not, ask a bigger boat. Using a grinder or saw should be last course of action. Ask, what would a theft use?

[Sailshabby]

Concur with cut and replace (the shackle's not going to heal itself assuming you can get it apart).

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by puffcard

Don't most have a large bolt cutters, big enough to cut their rigging. If not, ask a bigger boat.

We locked ourselves out of our first boat once, while in a marina in Newport, surrounded by biggish very impressive looking boats. I was super surprised when I went around the docks asking for a pair of bolt cutters that I could not find anyone who carried them. It was a combo padlock, and Beth hit the combo by trial and error before I found someone with a tool that would do the job.

[mawtty]

Some times it is necessary to cut off the end ring of the shackle pin to allow unhindered movement through the bow roller assembly.
Tulku tim

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by jbinbi

Came from Lagoon. No idea what they use. Have the latest PS, they just did a test on anchor shackles and have recommendations.

Will have to ask the yard to do this, I don't own an angle grinder, just a hacksaw. Don't know how long it would take to saw thru both sides. Maybe a battery powered sawzall with a metal cutting blade?

Originally Posted by jbinbi

Posting here since it is about a shackle, not just about anchors, but mods, move if you think appropriate.

Checking out the boat for the season. Looked at anchor shackle to check seizing wire. Not only found no wire, but not head on the bolt. How do I take this apart. I don't trust this! (see pic, worth 1000 words). BTW, boat is 2 years old, anchor has been used about 5x.

Maybe I should have titled this, replace, obviously not going to keep this shackle.

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Yes just cut it off. I would use an angle grinder, but these can be a little dangerous if you are not experienced. It will only take 5mins with a hacksaw. Usually it is also worth also cutting away the last couple of links of chain as these suffer the most wear, but in the photo your chain looks good. Use eye protection and as Ann and Matt have indicated (but its worth repeating) don't cut steel on the deck unless you are looking for the spotted rust look.

Replace it with a rated shackle from a recognised company. The high test galvanised shackles are slightly dearer but having a shackle that you are confident is at least as strong as the chain even with side loading is good peace of mind.

If you can try the shackle it worth checking the chosen model that cannot become jammed on the shank. Anchors struggle to work if the pull is from an eccentric location. Often Bow shackles are preferred although the existing model looks like a "D" shackle.

WTF is wrong with you people? The thing will most likely just screw apart; it's only been used 5 times according to the OP...if they're not up to using a ratchet, then certainly they're not competent with either a hacksaw or, god forbid, a 4 inch grinder. Best to pay the yard guys 100/hr to waste a spare shackle (though they'd probably just unscrew it and use it somewhere else).

Waiting to hear back from the OP....ready and willing to eat some crow...

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

WTF is wrong with you people? The thing will most likely just screw apart; it's only been used 5 times according to the OP...if they're not up to using a ratchet, then certainly they're not competent with either a hacksaw or, god forbid, a 4 inch grinder. Best to pay the yard guys 100/hr to waste a spare shackle (though they'd probably just unscrew it and use it somewhere else).

Waiting to hear back from the OP....ready and willing to eat some crow...

No jimbunyard, you're not alone in your thinking on this. I'm not trying to be mean, just honest. And if that's in question, read my initial post in this thread.
More comments on how to "fix" things =

[Dockhead]

Why God made angle grinders.

I'm not sure if I really understand the question, or what the question could be.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

No jimbunyard, you're not alone in your thinking on this. I'm not trying to be mean, just honest. And if that's in question, read my initial post in this thread.
More comments on how to "fix" things =

I wasted a good chunk of my youth getting rusted together fasteners off of antique cars, so this is in my skill set.

That shackle is well rusted together. An hour or two down the drain soaking it in penetrating oil, vibrating it with something to make the penetrating oil work, then trying to clear out the Robertson head enough to get a wrench in it, or finding another way to get purchase on it, and then at the end of it all, maybe heating it with a torch or putting it through a few heat/cold cycles, you will STILL have at least a 50/50 chance that it won't come apart. Or three minutes with an angle grinder and 100% chances of success. I know which way I would choose!

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

Am I missing something here? Is that not a square drive socket head in the center of the pin?

No, it's a Robertson drive. Do you have Robertson tools on board? I have approximately a half metric ton of tools on board, including a drill press, but I don't have Robertson tools. They were used on Model "T"s, but I've never seen a Robertson drive fastener on a boat. And even if you did have the right tool, that's going to be a job getting enough corrosion out for the tool to fit.

If you've got that kind of time to mess around with a fitting which you're going to throw away anyway -- I have a lot of jobs piled on my boat you could help me with

This is the shackle:



High tensile shackle GREEN PIN at Toplicht

It requires a special order key:




The tool will not go in if the fastener is badly corroded -- the bottom of the opening is precisely tapered. One of the drawbacks of the Robertson drive.

[IslandHopper]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

No, it's a Robertson drive. Do you have Robertson tools on board? I have approximately a half metric ton of tools on board, including a drill press, but I don't have Robertson tools. They were used on Model "T"s, but I've never seen a Robertson drive fastener on a boat. And even if you did have the right tool, that's going to be a job getting enough corrosion out for the tool to fit.

If you've got that kind of time to mess around with a fitting which you're going to throw away anyway -- I have a lot of jobs piled on my boat you could help me with

This is the shackle:

Attachment 149266

High tensile shackle GREEN PIN at Toplicht

It requires a special order key:

Attachment 149267


The tool will not go in if the fastener is badly corroded -- the bottom of the opening is precisely tapered. One of the drawbacks of the Robertson drive.

Actually those are not Robertson, they are square drive, no taper at all. I've got a few of them kicking around but not used on the boat, I've also got a set of metric/imperial 4 Point male impact sockets that make short work of pulling them apart.

I do have one "special" key and basically all it is a piece of bent key steel.....

High tensile shackle GREEN PIN at Toplicht

High-strength, hot-dip galvanized steel shackle, with female square-drive pin.
Works very well as a chain shackle or connection between anchor and chain.
Key sold separately. The compatible key can be ordered below.

High tensile shackle GREEN PIN at Toplicht

Square-drive key for high-strength, hot-dip galvanized shackle with female square-drive pin.
Shackle sold separately.