Anchor Shackle

[Cotemar]

I always recommend using the Crosby G-209A Shackle instead of the standard G-209.

The WLL (Working Load Limit) is almost twice as strong as the standard or no name brands and since you have a very expensive boat hanging on it, what’s a few more dollars.

They also forge the WLL and size onto them, so even years later you will know you have a safe shackle

Here is my current set up with pictures.
5/16 High Tensile G4 Chain. (WLL) is 3900 lbs.
Crosby 7/16, G-209A Shackle (WLL) is 5333 lbs. or 2.6 tons
Rocna 20 kg (44lbs)

I make a small modification to remove the large tab on the bolt that usually gets caught on the bow roller.
I cut it off with a hack saw then I drill a 5/64 dia. hole for tie wire.
Still leaves room to put a wrench on the tab to tighten
I use RUST-OLEUM spray galvanizing paint on the cut section

Here are a few places that carry them
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp...38271&id=33936
http://www.riggingwarehouse.com/products/RIGHARD01/RIGHARD01@@2e22/RIGHARD01@@2e22@@2e04.aspx
http://www.westechrigging.com/shackle-screw-pin-crosby-g-209a-038.html
http://rigging.carpenterrigging.com/viewitems/shackles/g-209a-crosby-alloy-screw-pin-anchor-shackles

[Kettlewell]

I use those too, but how do you get that unscrewed once it's been rusting for awhile? You don't leave yourself much purchase. I suppose vice grips would do it, but then you'll ruin the galvanizing.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

I use those too, but how do you get that unscrewed once it's been rusting for awhile? You don't leave yourself much purchase. I suppose vice grips would do it, but then you'll ruin the galvanizing.

I use the Blue Loctite on the threads and have not had any rust problems.

The little tab that is left after cut off is perfect for an adjustable wrench.
Been doing this for a number of years and they loosen the same as tighten. No worries

[model 10]

Very neat work. However, I would use a second shackle. There does not seem to be any provision for rotation.

[JonJo]

Cotemar,

We have the same problem with shackles on the bow roller. Yours is a very neat solution and I guess you could put some gal 'paint' on, if that was an issue. And if it does corrode 'solid' chop it off and buy a new one! I don't see that you need an extra shackle (or swivel) unless you anchor up for 2 weeks and turn with the tide twice a day (any twist should be taken up by the 'swivelliness' of chain and then fall out when you lift it).

[Cotemar]

I have used a 2nd opposing shackle in the past and yes it does give it a bit more rotation.
From the Anchor to Chain connector poll that we did a while back, it did not look to be a popular option for most cruisers. Works for some and not for others.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...oll-95608.html

[boatman61]

I tap the end over with a ball hammer... if/when I want it off.. usually to replace.. a junior hacksaw works a treat...

[Sandero]

Interesting presentation. Please comment on the need to tie shut w/ wire... a common practice. It certainly is a precaution against the bolt unwinding and coming loose. However.... Is this a real life possibility to be concerned about. I say this for the following reasons:

The shackle (at least on my boat) is visible when the anchor is stowed... and visually inspected even if only casually each time the anchor is deployed or when I am at the bow for any reason.

The actual forces on the bolt would only allow any rotation at all if the anchor is hanging free and swinging back and forth. Would this/could this loosen the bolt?

My experience has been that over years corrosion or whatever tends to freeze the bolt and freeing it requires enormous force to loosen the bolt.

So my question is... What WOULD loosen the bolt and isn't wiring it shut for this situation a bit of over kill? I am not advocating not tying it... but am interested in other sailor's comments.

[LakeSuperior]

Originally Posted by defjef

Interesting presentation. Please comment on the need to tie shut w/ wire... a common practice. It certainly is a precaution against the bolt unwinding and coming loose. However.... Is this a real life possibility to be concerned about. I say this for the following reasons:

The shackle (at least on my boat) is visible when the anchor is stowed... and visually inspected even if only casually each time the anchor is deployed or when I am at the bow for any reason.

The actual forces on the bolt would only allow any rotation at all if the anchor is hanging free and swinging back and forth. Would this/could this loosen the bolt?

My experience has been that over years corrosion or whatever tends to freeze the bolt and freeing it requires enormous force to loosen the bolt.

So my question is... What WOULD loosen the bolt and isn't wiring it shut for this situation a bit of over kill? I am not advocating not tying it... but am interested in other sailor's comments.

As a diver it makes me pretty happy when sailors don't seize their shackles. I am the proud owner of several nice anchors from the local mooring field. For one anchor the shackle and pin were right next to it.

Look at the mechanics of the yacht at anchor with a modest swell and some wind for tension or some current. Then anchor system tension is constantly cycling but most importantly in an asymetrical mode.

With less tension the chain or rode hangs in a cantenary. When it start to tension the shackle lifts slightly with tension and rotation on the shackle pin. When the tension comes off the shackle lays down with rotation but much less tension on the shackle pin.

The net effect is that the shackle pin simply trys to either tighten or unscrew depending on the direction the shackle pin is inserted through the anchor.

[Kettlewell]

I have used teflon plumbers tape on the screw pin for decades, and it allows for easier removal even if the shackle hasn't been opened in years. The photo shows a rig I set up using an extra big Crosby link (with a high WL). Doing this means that the pins on both shackles face the same direction, reducing the possible points of hang up by quite a bit. Since I did this I have had many fewer times when the head of one of the pins catches on the roller. I too think it is very unlikely that a well-tightened pin will come undone, but I do use a standard plastic wire tie (the black ones last the longest) to secure them. They are very easy to remove quickly if you need to undo a shackle in a hurry.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by defjef

Interesting presentation. Please comment on the need to tie shut w/ wire... a common practice.

So my question is... What WOULD loosen the bolt and isn't wiring it shut for this situation a bit of over kill? I am not advocating not tying it... but am interested in other sailor's comments.

Under storm conditions the chain acts as a pair of pliers to loosen the shackle pin. The pumping of the waves on the boat and chain will tighten on the pin and loosen the shackle pin connection causing a rotation effect. The Blue Loctite on the threads and the tie wire stop this from happening in the worst of conditions when a good connection is needed most.

[cfarrar]

Cotemar,

Is that a standard ACCO 5/16" G4 end link? I thought the largest pin that it could accept is 3/8", so I've been using the 3/8" 209A. I guess maybe I could use the 7/16", too!

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by LakeSuperior

As a diver it makes me pretty happy when sailors don't seize their shackles. I am the proud owner of several nice anchors from the local mooring field. For one anchor the shackle and pin were right next to it...

Indeed ➥ When having a mouse on a boat is a good thing.

Mousing the shackle seems a rather simple/cheap way to mitigate the likelihood of a low-frequency but very high negative consequence occurrence.

[Kettlewell]

I've never had a pin on one of my shackles show even the slightest sign that it has loosened, even after hurricanes and whatever. Maybe it's because I always tighten them with a wrench or pliers? I don't know, but based on my own experience if the shackle is tightened well it is unlikely for it to unscrew. Apparently it happens, based on what the diver said, but I wonder if it also has to do with the quality or condition of the shackle? On the other hand, when inspecting a rental mooring one time I pulled up the first bit to look at it and the pin of the top shackle fell out into my hand. It was the wrong pin for the hole and the threads didn't have a hold! That's one reason I'm not wild about picking up rental moorings.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by cfarrar

Cotemar,

Is that a standard ACCO 5/16" G4 end link? I thought the largest pin that it could accept is 3/8", so I've been using the 3/8" 209A. I guess maybe I could use the 7/16", too!

Yes it is an ACCO 5/16" G4 chain using Crosby 7/16, G-209A Shackle

They are snug, but mate perfectly.

Most cruisers are not aware of this chain to shackle combination and that is why I did the close up photos.