Anchor chain claw

[coopec43]

The maker of my anchor winch (Muir) says I shouldn't use the winch as an "Anchor bollard". I presume I need an "anchor chain claw"(?) attached to the bollard. I'm wondering what everyone is using.

I like the Austlift G70 Hi Clevis style however my anchor chain is 10mm. Do they come in that size? I presume that claw could be attached to the bollard with a 10mm chain and "D" shackle?

And when I attach the anchor to the chain should I used a particular sort of "D" shackle - high tensile or maybe 316 SS? Should the pin be "tethered"?

Are there any other matters I should consider?


Standard bow shackle with safety bolt which enables all components to be tethered

[sailormed]

«*And when I attach the anchor to the chain should I used a particular sort of "D" shackle - high tensile or maybe 316 SS? Should the pin be "tethered"?*»

I use an ordinary good quality galvanised shackle with the pin secured with safety wire.

[Ballsnall]

Originally Posted by coopec43

The maker of my anchor winch (Muir) says I shouldn't use the winch as an "Anchor bollard".

Good advice!

I presume I need an "anchor chain claw"(?) attached to the bollard. I'm wondering what everyone is using.

Lots of different options.

I like the Austlift G70 Hi Clevis style however my anchor chain is 10mm. Do they come in that size?

Yes

I presume claw could be attached to the bollard with a 10mm chain and "D" shackle?

No, ideally you would use 3 strand nylon rope to buffer the anchor loads.

And when I attach the anchor to the chain should I used a particular sort of "D" shackle - high tensile or maybe 316 SS?

Chain to anchor shackle should match braking strain of your chain as a minimum. Ideally it would be of the same same material as the chain and anchor but not of great importance.

Should the pin be "tethered"?

If you mean moused, then yes always mouse your shackles.

Are there any other matters I should consider?

A lot of people love to use a swivel attachment for the anchor to chain. Never seen the need myself but there are some obvious advantages.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by sailormed

«*And when I attach the anchor to the chain should I used a particular sort of "D" shackle - high tensile or maybe 316 SS? Should the pin be "tethered"?*»

I use an ordinary good quality galvanised shackle with the pin secured with safety wire.

Thanks for that: that set up sounds good.

After reading your comment I decided to do a google on "strength "D" shackle vs chain link"and came up with this excellent bit of information(which I am still digesting)

What are the Differences Between Types of Shackles?
https://www.uscargocontrol.com/blogs...es-of-shackles

[Alan Mighty]

Originally Posted by coopec43

The maker of my anchor winch (Muir) says I shouldn't use the winch as an "Anchor bollard". I presume I need an "anchor chain claw"(?) attached to the bollard. I'm wondering what everyone is using.

A chain stopper. A device, through-bolted to the deck, that takes the tension from the chain (and thus relieving your anchor windlass of the chain tension).

A chain stopper is another way of doing the job of transferring the forces in your anchor rode to your hull (and away from the bearing of your anchor windlass).

https://www.theboatwarehouse.com.au/...chain-stopper/

[coopec43]

Quote:
I presume claw could be attached to the bollard with a 10mm chain and "D" shackle?
No, ideally you would use 3 strand nylon rope to buffer the anchor loads.QUOTE

I presume the 3 strand rope would have to be spliced?

Three strand splice? I think I could manage that (with practice)

[Ballsnall]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I presume the 3 strand rope would have to be spliced?

Three strand splice? I think I could manage that (with practice)

Easy peasy, get yourself some SS thimbles.
Tip: use a bit of electrical tape on the ends of the strands to prevent them from fraying.
You'll be a pro in no time.

[sailingharry]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I presume the 3 strand rope would have to be spliced?

Three strand splice? I think I could manage that (with practice)

The splice is the strong, permanent, seman-like way to do the job. But there is no fundamental reason why you could not also do it with a bowline. For the same strength, you would need to upsize the line one size.

[pdx_sailing]

A rolling hitch to the anchor chain, tie off end to deck cleat. Cheap and easy.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by pdx_sailing

A rolling hitch to the anchor chain, tie off end to deck cleat. Cheap and easy.

Is there a reason to use that instead of a bowline (with the line through a link)? Perhaps easier to undo? Or...?

-Chris

[GrowleyMonster]

Originally Posted by ranger58sb

Is there a reason to use that instead of a bowline (with the line through a link)? Perhaps easier to undo? Or...?

-Chris

If you run your snubber through a chain link, you are probably using line that is too small to do the job. A rolling hitch might not be very elegant, but it will do the job with zero extra hardware and allow you to use a snubber heavy enough to never fail. Secure the bitter end with a cable tie or a few wraps of electrical tape for more security. Any place where the snubber passes through a chock or touches the deck edge or anchor davit roller, you should have a piece of fire hose or similar, for chafing gear. A devil's claw at the end of your snubber is super convenient and uber kewl. I have used an ordinary chain hook. For a little extra insurance, you might want a riding pawl on deck between your windlass and your anchor davit, or just a nice big deck cleat that you can figure-eight your slack anchor chain on. And yes, you REALLY need some way of taking the persistent load off your windlass, so you are correct to be concerned. Simply throwing a few turns around a samson post or cruciform bitt or heavy duty deck cleat is great, but a three strand nylon snubber will help reduce the shock loads from the boat pitching should the weather come up a bit.

Splicing all types of fiber rope is pretty much an essential part of your skill set, and three strand laid rope is super simple. A good fid will help you make a nicer splice, and to splice hard laid rope that beginners find extremely hard to splice otherwise. This type of fid is pretty good, because you can tuck a strand while the fid is still holding the gap open. With the standard type of wooden fid, you have to hold your gap open with your fingers when you pull the fid out, to tuck the strand, and if it closes up on you, it will pull yarns from the strand and unlay the strand.

https://www.defender.com/product3.js...9491&id=33517#

You need a roll of electrical tape and you need your knife to be nice and sharp. A small torch for melting strand ends is nice but not absolutely essential. Heat shrink tubing is GREAT for finishing off a splice or a plain rope end but likewise, not strictly essential. Some tarred #12 net twine or heavy waxed sail twine are nice for whipping. When you apply tape to a rope end or a strand, make sure you stretch it as it goes on. The multiple layers apply tremendous compression and keep it very solid and rigid. Don't use masking tape or duck tape. They don't stretch like vinyl. There are lots of youtube videos. Follow along, practice with some small rope. Learn to make eye splice and chain splice, yeah, but also the short splice, which is how two rope ends are usually joined together. I suggest also looking for old threads on this forum on splicing three strand, or start your own thread with a post.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Alan Mighty

A chain stopper. A device, through-bolted to the deck, that takes the tension from the chain (and thus relieving your anchor windlass of the chain tension).

A chain stopper is another way of doing the job of transferring the forces in your anchor rode to your hull (and away from the bearing of your anchor windlass).

https://www.theboatwarehouse.com.au/...chain-stopper/

^^^^^^
this , and use the hook on three strand for a snubber.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by GrowleyMonster

If you run your snubber through a chain link, you are probably using line that is too small to do the job. A rolling hitch might not be very elegant, but it will do the job with zero extra hardware and allow you to use a snubber heavy enough to never fail. Secure the bitter end with a cable tie or a few wraps of electrical tape for more security. Any place where the snubber passes through a chock or touches the deck edge or anchor davit roller, you should have a piece of fire hose or similar, for chafing gear. A devil's claw at the end of your snubber that you can figure-eight your slack anchor chain on. And yes, you REALLY need some way of taking the persistent load off your windlass, so you are

Splicing all types of fiber rope is pretty much an essential part of your skill set, and three strand laid rope is super simple. A good fid will help you m

https://www.defender.com/product3.js...9491&id=33517#

You need a roll of electrical tape and you need your knife to be nice and sharp. A small torch for melting strand ends is nice but not absolutely essential. Heat shrink tubing is GRE apply tape to a rope end or a strand, make sure you stretch it as it goes on. The multiple layers apply tr.

Thanks for that

[Flatswing]

Simplest and quickest way (other than a rolling hitch) is to splice an eye into the end of your 3 strand nylon snubber & attach to the chain with a soft shackle which is also easy to make out of Dyneema. The soft shackle - sized to pass through a chain link is much stronger than the chain itself.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by GrowleyMonster

If you run your snubber through a chain link, you are probably using line that is too small to do the job.

Ah. Good point. Thanks.

-Chris