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Old 10-10-2022, 06:06   #16
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Re: Anchor chain claw

I use a prussic loop and a soft shackle all of dynnema
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Old 10-10-2022, 06:42   #17
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Re: Anchor chain claw

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatswing View Post
Simplest and quickest way (other than a rolling hitch) is to splice an eye into the end of your 3 strand...
But why go any more complicated than the rolling hitch? The rolling hitch is, in my opinion, a better solution besides being cheaper, faster, and easier to set up. Apparantly I'm becoming the CF resident rolling hitch evangelist, since this is the second time in a few weeks that I've posted about the virtues of the rolling hitch. But you know, it's great! I can't help myself!

As others have noted, the point of the whole setup is to transfer the load on the anchor rode away from the windlass. Letting the windlass hold this load is a good way to break it. Using nylon or otherwise stretchy rope to transfer the load is desirable because the stretchiness absorbs shock loads that are generated when the boat "dances" around on the anchor. This helps avoid dragging anchor.

The best way, IMO, to use stretchy rope (called the snubber) to transfer the load from the anchor rode to the hull is to simply tie a rolling hitch around the chain, then cleat hitch the snubber to a bow cleat. Some advantages of this method:

1. You can tie a rolling hitch around either rope or chain anchor rode. This means it's great for a combination rope/chain rode where the snubber may need to attach to either material.

2. It is easily adjustable. Adjusting the length of the snubber is as easy as tying and untying the cleat hitch, which is a matter of not more than a couple seconds.

3. It is easy to overhaul if chafe occurs. If the end of the snubber that ties onto the chain starts to chafe, simply cut a foot or so off the end and you are done. No need to splice a new eye or reconfigure any hardware. Just cut it off and you have fresh un-chafed rope to tie with.

4. It's cheap. You literally only have to buy a suitable length of rope. I use a retired climbing rope because it is extra super stretchy. I got it for free from a climber friend who was getting rid of it. There is no stainless or other hardware to buy and keep spares of onboard.

5. The simplicity makes it strong. There is no worry about whether the eye is spliced correctly, or the hardware is rusting, or if the turning radius on the splice is too small. There's only one thing to worry about doing right, and that's tying a very simple knot. Practice it 10 times and you will have it down, I promise.

The only downside I can see is that it takes slightly longer to tie the rolling hitch onto the chain than it would take to put a chain hook on. But that is a very minor difference. The rolling hitch probably takes me about 15-20 seconds to tie, vs 5 or so seconds on the hook. But saving 15 seconds per day every time I set the anchor really doesn't matter to me.

I suspect that the reason this method isn't more widely used may be that people are not confident that the rolling hitch will stay securely tied. After ~450 nights on anchor using it, I can attest that it does not easily shake loose, and it's not a difficult hitch to tie. Would recommend.
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