How to clamp a hose below waterline when there is not enough room for two clamps?

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Hartleyg

Ricky,


A nutdriver (or socket wrench) will:
a. Not slip off at an inopportune moment (and these hose clamps are ALWAYS in a nasty spot )
b. Won't potentially break the tightening screw or chinger up the end.
c. Are much easier to align for best (most even) tightening performance


Hartley
S/V Atsa

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Yes, the AWAB, not to keep from cutting into the hose, cause I doubt that would make a proper Marine hose fail.
I think the cut slots are stress risers, built in failure points if you will, regular clamps seem to often break right at one of those slots

Exactly. 99% of the failures I have had on standard, cut slot, hose clamps is when the metal between the cuts breaks or bends. Bending can be worse than breaking as it can jam the clamp.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by RickyEM

Thanks for this discussion. I noticed several of you recommended using nut drivers when tightening a clamp. As opposed, I assume, to a screw driver. Why is this? Is it to torque the clamps? Another reason? Just wondering not disagreeing...

I have two scars on my knuckles that look like smiles that would explain it best, the tail of a hose clamp while not being sharp, can cut like a knife when the screw driver slips and your hand goes into it.

[sailor_ed]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Exactly. 99% of the failures I have had on standard, cut slot, hose clamps is when the metal between the cuts breaks or bends. Bending can be worse than breaking as it can jam the clamp.

Actual conversation I had :

Surveyor "The insurance company says you need 2 hose clamps here."

Me "There's no room on that barb for two."

Surveyor "Well they didn't actually say the second one had to be tight!" (wink), (grin)

[sailor_ed]

Originally Posted by sailor_ed

Actual conversation I had :

Surveyor "The insurance company says you need 2 hose clamps here."

Me "There's no room on that barb for two."

Surveyor "Well they didn't actually say the second one had to be tight!" (wink), (grin)

Sorry skip Mac, my comment was not directed at you... just the way the app did it

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by sailor_ed

Sorry skip Mac, my comment was not directed at you... just the way the app did it

Didn't feel put out at all. I had actually considered that exact solution if the issue came up in a survey.

[Cheechako]

I have changed a lot of hoses in my time, and my tendonitis is a testament to that! In my thinking it's far more important that the hose and fitting match is good and tight than two clamps or type of clamp.
Good marine hose and a proper fitting will often not come off with no clamp at all and a lot of prying and twisting etc. I have had situations with oddball fittings or hose many times that you can pull off with the clamp nice and tight. Some will come right off readily.
The marine industry, and plumbing industry for that matter, is fraught with non standardization of sizes etc. It's just amazing actually how bad it is.

There seems to be an innate fear of hose or valve failure in the sailing community, probably due to the books written in the 60's by hand to mouth cruisers that needed something to write about.
I fell for it too. One 44 ft boat I had, I think had 12 seacocks, so I went on a mission to replace a bunch of them with one big one and hoses. By the time I finished that project, with some fittings that were tight, some not so tight, many feet of underfloor hoses and couplers and Tees, stress on fittings that were cantilevered out of the strum box etc. I knew for a fact that my boat was safer before I started that project.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

The marine industry, and plumbing industry for that matter, is fraught with non standardization of sizes etc. It's just amazing actually how bad it is.

Yes it is extremely annoying all the different standards. Like 3/4" pipe has +/- 1" diameter threads and nothing on it is exactly 3/4". NPT vs NPS. I really don't see the need or benefit to tapered threads. Properly cut straight threads and sealer do a perfectly good job of sealing a connection.

Add BSPP, DIN, and more. Then add parts made in China that for example claim to be a 1" hose barb but no 1" ID hose in the western world will actually fit.

Argh!

[Boatguy30]

Use a high quality AWAB us made or euro made non cutout sold band type and it'll be fine.

[redsky49]

Just to add to the confusion, the T-bolt style also suggests double clamping.


If single clamped, contrary to recommendations, have you invalidated your insurance protection?


Per the Defender listing:


"Trident 720 Series T-Bolt Exhaust Hose Clamps

Band Width: 3/4", Select Clamp Range (1" to 2-3/4")
Material: Band and Housing: 316 Stainless
Sold Individually, (2) Clamps Recommended per Joint"

[Lucky]

Try using the AWAB 3/8" if you insist on installing two clamps. I have similar motors in our cat and only use one clam either side of the pump. Check them every time I check or replace the impellers.
All good advise from the community using single clamps should let you rest assured.
Happy lead free sailing from Lucky

[stargazer]

Originally Posted by Kiwi.

... This problem is quite obvious if somebody looks inside the pipe regularly (hence the Vaseline.)

Since you mentioned Vaseline several times I'd like to pass on what I learned from a plumbing technician who did high end water treatment systems.

Use silicone grease instead of a petroleum grease. The silicone will not degrade the pipe, which is generally petroleum based.

I can't prove the degradation issue, but for me it is very simple to use the silicone grease since I always have some on hand for electrical connections.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by stargazer

Since you mentioned Vaseline several times I'd like to pass on what I learned from a plumbing technician who did high end water treatment systems.

Use silicone grease instead of a petroleum grease. The silicone will not degrade the pipe, which is generally petroleum based.

I can't prove the degradation issue, but for me it is very simple to use the silicone grease since I always have some on hand for electrical connections.

Something I learned some time ago from Peggie - the head mistress. Use K-Y jelly as a lubricant to get those hoses on the barb. Water based and it evaporates completely so it does not damage the hose.

[Cheechako]

I like to avoid petro based products on hoses. Sometimes just warm water works. I usually use Lanolin, which will keep the hose from sticking to the metal fitting and being damaged if you ever have to take it off.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Something I learned some time ago from Peggie - the head mistress. Use K-Y jelly as a lubricant to get those hoses on the barb. Water based and it evaporates completely so it does not damage the hose.

We used “surgical lube” in the Army on aircraft parts, or Crisco on fuel O rings.
Dishwashing soap is also good as it won’t rot rubber. Even cooking spray “Pam” lots of options.