I had a fuel polishing system. I don't any more.
Having looked at a few opened old fuel tanks and seen where the suction tubes end up I can state with absolute certainty that an onboard fuel polishing system does not do anything and can not do anything unless fuel suction tubes are extended to the bottom of the tank.
First off unless your suction tubes go to the very bottom you can not polish all the fuel because you can not even get to the stuff on the bottom. Second the fuel
pump you are using is not going to really stir anything up with the small amount of return fuel. This is maybe different if your in a
power yacht with a pair of 400 hp cats or similar but no sailboat engine is going to move enough fuel to stir up anything. It certainly is not going to break up an algae mat. The simple fact that your engine is able to run means your not sucking up water from the bottom of the tank so if there is water and algae there you are not sucking it up.
Every older diesel tank I have opened has had water in it from just below the fuel suction tube including mine. My fuel tanks purported to hold 500 liters. I decided to inspect them and after the
electric fuel pump ran dry and had done all it could I opened the tank to see what was there and there was a lot of fuel there below the level of the suction tube. The suction tube was 2 inches off the bottom of the tank.
With an
oil change vacuum I sucked up 25-30 liters of fuel out of the bottom of that tank. When I ran this through a water separator low and behold it was all water and algae out of the bottom of that tank. Almost no fuel at all.
I have come to the conclusion that the only way to avoid the bugs is to use a biocide and as much as possible keep water out of your tanks and the only way to do that is to configure your fuel system so that it takes fuel off the very bottom of the tank. This means that if there is any moister there it gets sucked up and separated in your water separator . You need to watch this fuel separator all the time, preferably with a
fuel filter water
sensor that Racor sells. If you do that there is no need for a polishing system.
Then there is the bugaboo about making sure the fuel tanks are full for the
winter so they don't condensate. Well many of us did not use the fuel we had 3 yrs ago. I know I did not. So if you top it up every year you never ever use up the old fuel and have fresh fuel. You just keep topping up the stale fuel with fuel that will soon be going stale.
When you read the next part you will see this is not required or even helpful.
I have a marina buddy who is a diesel
engineer and he used to run
service on 400-500hp ( i need to confirm size) diesel generators in out of the way places in the world. By a simple calculation we can assume they are using say 30 US gallons per hour or 700 gallons a day.
By my recollection of what he said, they would fill a clean day tank with clean (dry no water) fuel and run that machine on that tank for 24 hrs and at the beginning of the next day would switch to another day tank and would then drain 2 or 3 gallons of water out of the previous day's tank before they refilled that in preparation for the next day.
Where did all that water come from?
Condensation from hot fuel. Cold fuel going through a hot engine comes out hot on the return and goes back into the tank and
condensation forms.
I never thought of that till he told me. Our boats have the same problem to a much lesser degree. Impossible to keep water out of the fuel. He confirmed this to me.
Once you think about this for a bit you can see the futility of leaving your diesel tanks full every
winter when you do not even burn off the fuel you had on board 3 yrs ago. All your doing is ensuring that you will always be using stale diesel fuel. (yes that is a thing)
In my mind, what is required is 2 good Raycor FG 500 turbine fuel water separators with bowl probes to sense if there is water in the bowl. You set the probes up on an
alarm system. You set these filters up in parallel so that only one is being used at a time but so that you can switch over from one to the other in a flash. As soon as you have a fuel problem or a water
alarm you look at the filters and swap if required by the simple expedient of 4 valves. Open 2 to bring the new filter on line and close 2 to isolate the old filter. Now you can do what is required to fix the problem filter
If you have any fuel pump between the tank and the filters relocate them to after the FG500s. Raycor says the pumps have a tendency to emulsify the water in the fuel and it can't be separated out.
With that in mind I also took out the 2-30 micron pre-filters I had before the FG 500s. If going through a pump is going to emulsify the water into the fuel then going through a filter is going to do it too.
As I said, I was
sold on my fuel polishing system until I could see that it did nothing.
PS: If you put the suction tubes to the bottom you need a coarse
screen on the tube to make sure nothing too big gets sucked in. Some of the
sealant I used to seal the
inspection ports fell into the fuel, hardened and then got sucked up and clogged the suction tube. That was rather hairy.