Replacing Floor boards in the Salon

[Catboat Willy]

Good floor replacement discussion on another forum; https://www.catalina36.org/forum/gen...acing-flooring

[Hamish_ct]

Thank you for your advice and stories on the work, Very much appreciate the help and guidance. Another question, has anyone used Seadek, applied on marine plywood to re do the interior salon floor? I had a Marine surveyor recommend that to me as another alternative.

[sail sfbay]

Originally Posted by Hamish_ct

...............Another question, has anyone used Seadek, applied on marine plywood to re do the interior salon floor?........

I had Seadek installed in my cockpit and on the swim platform, aft lazarettes and gunnels over fiberglass by a certified Seadek installer. The installed scanned the areas to be covered and custom made each section. The scanned product can be saved for future reference if you need to replace any section. The product is significantly lower cost that PlasTEAK. The product is a peel and stick and requires no floor sanding and additional glue. It can be easily removed, surface cleaned with acetone and replaced. It is easy to maintain and nice to walk on.

https://www.seadek.com/

[Spot]

Originally Posted by sail sfbay

I had Seadek installed in my cockpit and on the swim platform, aft lazarettes and gunnels over fiberglass by a certified Seadek installer. The installed scanned the areas to be covered and custom made each section. The scanned product can be saved for future reference if you need to replace any section. The product is significantly lower cost that PlasTEAK. The product is a peel and stick and requires no floor sanding and additional glue. It can be easily removed, surface cleaned with acetone and replaced. It is easy to maintain and nice to walk on.

https://www.seadek.com/

SFB,
Do recall the brand of scanner they used?
Thanks!

[sail sfbay]

Originally Posted by Spot

SFB, Do recall the brand of scanner they used?.......

No, it might be a portable Proliner. Scanning was included in the cost and it was far less expensive than Plasteak. Once scanned, they create a computer aided design drawing (CADD) for your approval before fabrication. Happy to send you the CADD drawings and photos of the installation if you PM me as I cannot upload files or photos to this site.

Take a look at this youtube video on how they do it:

SeaDek scan:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YO1-lHxTxY

Proliner scan:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdQUmFxwLGA

[Spot]

Originally Posted by sail sfbay

No, it might be a portable Proliner. Scanning was included in the cost and it was far less expensive than Plasteak. Once scanned, they create a computer aided design drawing (CADD) for your approval before fabrication. Happy to send you the CADD drawings and photos of the installation if you PM me as I cannot upload files or photos to this site.

Take a look at this youtube video on how they do it:

SeaDek scan:

Proliner scan:

Thanks for the links, going to go watch them now!

[John Dibb]

I have just made replacement floor parts for my Bene 361 using 15mm teak/holly. I now have fifteen individual pieces which need sealing/coating to complete.
Any recommendations would be appreciated. Must be non-skid even when wet.

[Jim Cate]

The flooring looks like plywood with a lament.

I'd have thought it was you with the lament, not the sole. The sole doesn't give a damn...

(Sorry, couldn't stop myself!)

Good luck with the repair... you've had some good advice!

Jim

[wingssail]

We originally used Okoume plywood 3/8 16 plys for the cabin sole replacing dark mahogany battens. The floors are fiberglass shimmed with fiberglass batten stock to make them flat. The okuome was varnished. I made patterns with cardboard and cut the plywood myself. It was held down by locking devises, no screws. All pieces could be removed independently to access the bilge. There were smaller access boards.

This lasted well for 16 years but had many dings which pierced the varnish and became black marks. The wood was still strong but we wanted a new sole.

We purchased marine plywood with dark mahogany and silver ash veneer and using our old Okoume as patterns the lumber yard made new cabin sole pieces. They fit perfectly and the existing floors were kept. They were re-finished a few years later in Thailand with sprayed two part polyurethane and they looked gorgeous. The high gloss finish, surprisingly, is not slippery.

Twenty years later they are still strong and mostly look great but a few pieces, the ones which have the most exposure to bilge water, need refinishing.

So use good wood. have good floors to support it, keep it reasonably light, and make it removable. Coat the bottoms with epoxy and use good, durable finish on the top.

You can do this.

[John Dibb]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

I'd have thought it was you with the lament, not the sole. The sole doesn't give a damn...

(Sorry, couldn't stop myself!)

Good luck with the repair... you've had some good advice!

Jim

Not sure where the "lament" came from; does not appear in my text. However, there is a lot of finishing to do and while the sole itself may not give a damn my Admiral certainly does!!

John

[John Dibb]

Originally Posted by wingssail

We originally used Okoume plywood 3/8 16 plys for the cabin sole replacing dark mahogany battens. The floors are fiberglass shimmed with fiberglass batten stock to make them flat. The okuome was varnished. I made patterns with cardboard and cut the plywood myself. It was held down by locking devises, no screws. All pieces could be removed independently to access the bilge. There were smaller access boards.

This lasted well for 16 years but had many dings which pierced the varnish and became black marks. The wood was still strong but we wanted a new sole.

We purchased marine plywood with dark mahogany and silver ash veneer and using our old Okoume as patterns the lumber yard made new cabin sole pieces. They fit perfectly and the existing floors were kept. They were re-finished a few years later in Thailand with sprayed two part polyurethane and they looked gorgeous. The high gloss finish, surprisingly, is not slippery.

Twenty years later they are still strong and mostly look great but a few pieces, the ones which have the most exposure to bilge water, need refinishing.

So use good wood. have good floors to support it, keep it reasonably light, and make it removable. Coat the bottoms with epoxy and use good, durable finish on the top.

You can do this.

Thanks for the words of experience and wisdom. I have used marine ply and cut all panels using the old boards as templates, including three sections which came from under cabinets etc. All panels are independently removable to access bilge and storage and are well supported by the Beneteau grid system.

For the polyurethane did you use gloss for all coats or a mixture of gloss and matt? I was considering coating the backs and edges with epoxy and then good varnish on the tops, but started to second-guess my self after reading other articles.

Maybe I should just proceed as planned!

Thanks again.
John

[JPA Cate]

It wasn't you, John. It was Hamish ct, 2nd post by him.

It was one of those autocorrect typos. He meant laminate, the computer mis-translated....

However, I'm among those who would encourage Hamish to strip and re-finish the existing floor. Dings can be filled with 5 min epoxy, and peeled flat while they're a tiny bit soft still, and they will no longer show, when the whole thing is lightly sanded, then varnished. Don't count the hours varnish drys, they're for meditating or doing something else you enjoy.

Ann

[LittleWing77]

Originally Posted by GordMay

C&C Photo Album & Resource Center ➥ C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center

“Mast steps are usually wood based, and they rot or deteriorate. It's often easier to rebuild the existing deteriorated step than it is to pull it and replace. A combination of CPES™[1] and the L&L Resin™[2] can result in a strong step that is largely free of existing rot and protected to a substantial degree from future rot.”
1. Smith’s Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer
2. Layup & Laminating Epoxy Resin

I'm with Gord.

Sorry, Hamish, but you've got your priorities mixed up. In order to preserve the integrity of your boat's hull (assuming you do purchase that boat), you'll need to deal with repair/replacing the the mast step, perhaps also repair /replace the compression post, and entirely getting rid of that leak - all before addressing any sole repair - which is only an interior aesthetic concern.

Fair winds,
LittleWing77

[Jolly Roger]

I recently had to match a large piece of my teak and holly floorboards, the problem was, they were no longer made in the exact same size as my originals. I made my own, from plywood, teak veneer and holly strips.
If you are doing a complete floor, then you can buy teak/holly/maple floors ready to lay, but they ain’t cheap.
It might give you some ideas if you look at the article on my website: VENEERING A SOLE

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by John Dibb

Thanks for the words of experience and wisdom. I have used marine ply and cut all panels using the old boards as templates, including three sections which came from under cabinets etc. All panels are independently removable to access bilge and storage and are well supported by the Beneteau grid system.

For the polyurethane did you use gloss for all coats or a mixture of gloss and matt? I was considering coating the backs and edges with epoxy and then good varnish on the tops, but started to second-guess my self after reading other articles.

Maybe I should just proceed as planned!

Thanks again.
John

Yes we put epoxy on the back and edges. The top was 2-part gloss polyurethane sprayed on, smooth as glass! I don't know how many coats, I didn't do it, I left a couple of boards with Mali in Phuket each week and he did them.