Merged LiFeYPO4 1000Ah Winston prismatic cells and all electric galley...

[CatNewBee]

I have a 220V relay on the MV output, that goes with a contact to the quattro and there is a macro fired up, that sets the current limit to 8A and turns off charge current, so no problem there.

I tested it and it works, but I never needed it yet, the Admiral was trained to take care while cooking, that the hot water boiler is off, and then the Quattro alone is sufficient.

Anyway, I also use the Quattro to power the legacy chargers and charge the start batteries by flipping the switch on the control panel, if legacy charging is enabled by the BMV during this, there is a feedback loop to the LFP bank, so I may lose 5A during charging, but it is not really a problem, it is over-compensated by solar anyway.

BTW I use my customized RaspberryPi CCGX panel to control the Quattro by touch screen and I can dedicated switch it to automatic, inverter only, charger only and off, so I could prevent charging on any source on the Quattro, power assist works in Inverter mode too.

[Mixman1]

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

I have a 220V relay on the MV output, that goes with a contact to the quattro and there is a macro fired up, that sets the current limit to 8A and turns off charge current, so no problem there.

I tested it and it works, but I never needed it yet, the Admiral was trained to take care while cooking, that the hot water boiler is off, and then the Quattro alone is sufficient.

Anyway, I also use the Quattro to power the legacy chargers and charge the start batteries by flipping the switch on the control panel, if legacy charging is enabled by the BMV during this, there is a feedback loop to the LFP bank, so I may lose 5A during charging, but it is not really a problem, it is over-compensated by solar anyway.

BTW I use my customized RaspberryPi CCGX panel to control the Quattro by touch screen and I can dedicated switch it to automatic, inverter only, charger only and off, so I could prevent charging on any source on the Quattro, power assist works in Inverter mode too.

I knew you had a solution! Thank you for sharing. One follow up.... Are you saying that essentially you never need the master volt? I am about to dig in to my Lagoon 400 and considering your approach to utilize the existing 2K inverter to supplement a new Quattro 5K. However, if it is extremely rare or never needed, I would prefer to just take the old inverter out of the system.

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by Mixman1

I knew you had a solution! Thank you for sharing. One follow up.... Are you saying that essentially you never need the master volt? I am about to dig in to my Lagoon 400 and considering your approach to utilize the existing 2K inverter to supplement a new Quattro 5K. However, if it is extremely rare or never needed, I would prefer to just take the old inverter out of the system.

I never really used it yet, I could have teared it out and sell it, but then, you know, everything is electric on our boat, and if the Quattro fails where I cannot fix it, I would have a small backup, enough to cook on one burner or use the oven. Also I would have to remove all the wiring from the inverter and the remote panel leaving a hole to fill...

It is just a backup.

I still have this disconnected transfer relay box under the chart table on the side waiting to be removed, because with the new design MV output fed trough the panel switch to the victron input, there cannot be conflicting sources the victron transfer switch takes care automatically...

.

[Afrinus]

Im just starting off on the LiFePO4 road. CNB, your install thread is really helpfull in understanding some of the issues - thank you!

One question that I think I know the answer to, but not sure about, is regarding multille shunts.
The A-BMS as well as the Victron BMV both use current shunts to calculate SOC.
Are you using the same shunt for both devices? If not, how did you install the two shunts on the negative of your bank?

Thanks
Pieter

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by Afrinus

Im just starting off on the LiFePO4 road. CNB, your install thread is really helpfull in understanding some of the issues - thank you!

One question that I think I know the answer to, but not sure about, is regarding multille shunts.
The A-BMS as well as the Victron BMV both use current shunts to calculate SOC.
Are you using the same shunt for both devices? If not, how did you install the two shunts on the negative of your bank?

Thanks
Pieter

Same shunt (Victron), just connect the wires from the REC properly with the small lugs under the screws on the PCB board of the victron. Both devices just measure the voltage difference over the shunt, no problem, they do not affect each other.

I upgraded my shunt to a 1000A version, you can just unscrew the pcb and screw it to the bigger one, but need to change the shunt data in both REC and BMV. But the standard 500A will do.

You need the serial interface and the REC software, if you want to callibrate the shunt or change any settings. You don't need the shunt from REC if you have a BMV.

[Afrinus]

Thanks CNB. That was what I hoped the answer would be.
[emoji1303]

[Wingflyer]

CatNewBee, Are your MPPT's controlled by the REC BMS and if so, how? Thanks!

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by Wingflyer

CatNewBee, Are your MPPT's controlled by the REC BMS and if so, how? Thanks!

no, it is not. But it could be by the remote switch input on the controller and a relay signal from the opto coupler stop charge output relay, like the quattro.

Not necessary, and I prefer it that way.

[Wingflyer]

Thank you!

[Afrinus]

CNB, you might have mentioned this somewhere earlier in the thread and I've missed it.
What is your strategy for times where you might store the boat.
If your MPPT's are not controlled by the BMS, the battery will be fully charged permanently. The LFP's want to be stored at around 40% SOC.
My plan is to have a "storage" profile and an "active" profile for the REC where the "stop charge" will come on at a much lower voltage. Time between is sufficeintly long in my case that it warants the changon of settings on the BMS.
This said, my MPPT's will be controlled by the stop charging output

Pieter

[CatNewBee]

Originally Posted by Afrinus

CNB, you might have mentioned this somewhere earlier in the thread and I've missed it.
What is your strategy for times where you might store the boat.
If your MPPT's are not controlled by the BMS, the battery will be fully charged permanently. The LFP's want to be stored at around 40% SOC.
My plan is to have a "storage" profile and an "active" profile for the REC where the "stop charge" will come on at a much lower voltage. Time between is sufficeintly long in my case that it warants the changon of settings on the BMS.
This said, my MPPT's will be controlled by the stop charging output

Pieter

Set the MPMT to a low value, like 13.8V Absorption / 13.4V float. They don't get full then (70..80%). The batteries don't care much about SOC in storage anyway, just stay away from the low side, or you will wreck them.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by Afrinus

CNB, you might have mentioned this somewhere earlier in the thread and I've missed it.
What is your strategy for times where you might store the boat.
If your MPPT's are not controlled by the BMS, the battery will be fully charged permanently. The LFP's want to be stored at around 40% SOC.
My plan is to have a "storage" profile and an "active" profile for the REC where the "stop charge" will come on at a much lower voltage. Time between is sufficeintly long in my case that it warants the changon of settings on the BMS.
This said, my MPPT's will be controlled by the stop charging output

Pieter

on my setup I just adjust the solar controller to stop charging at 13.2 if layup is expected to last more than a month .

[s/v Jedi]

30% SOC is optimal for storage iirc. A good way to do that is using the relay in the Victron battery monitor

[Afrinus]

Cat, be careful.
The batteries do care about SOC when stored.
It might not matter for you as you seem to be living the life - where you wont go to long term storage.
Its well documented that storing batteries at full charge reduce lifespan pretty quickly.
Theres more data out there, but Mainsail has done some controlled experients where a 100Ah cell lost as much as 11% over a year.
Seems 30 to 40% is optimal storage SOC.

Interesting that you go to 13.8V. That's my 100% SOC.

Pieter

Originally Posted by CatNewBee

Set the MPMT to a low value, like 13.8V Absorption / 13.4V float. They don't get full then (70..80%). The batteries don't care much about SOC in storage anyway, just stay away from the low side, or you will wreck them.

[arsenelupiga]

Originally Posted by newhaul

on my setup I just adjust the solar controller to stop charging at 13.2 if layup is expected to last more than a month .

and then lightening strike comes damaging electronics in unpredictable ways.

maybe voltage sensor gone and then overcharging.....

dont you think this is dangerous and better to disconnect batteries physically?