Is "De-Wiring" a Thing?

[Dieseldude]

Originally Posted by pcmm

Lol that's not "olden days" we still use those toning devices to check wires after doing network wiring, very current technique. The devices are called "wire trackers"

but sometimes its just better to gut the wiring and start fresh (depending on the boat) When I bought my morgan I gave each of my kids a pair of side cutter pliers and told them to have fun and cut every wire out of the boat ( it was that bad) I paid them by the pound of wire they removed.. They gutted the boat in a weekend and it cost me $100ish.

After thay ALWAYS buy your wire by the spool and plan out the wiring ahead of time to try to determine a common wire size that works for the majority of devices) I'm mostly wired with 16 and 14awg (alll LED lights).

Whether to pull all old wiring can be a cost benefit and safety issue. Standardizing to just a few sizes can be convenient. It will not hurt to use a gauge or two larger than required. A couple pages back, I put in a note on "toners".


Much time can be saved with a "fox and hound" type circuit tracing set. That is a trade name and generically, they are called toners. One part is a radio transmitter that you connect to a wire. The other is a receiver that is moved close to the wire along its length. It will receive the signal when in close proximity. They do not work through metal barriers and shielded cable though. Here's and example of a "Tone & Probe Kit" https://www.homedepot.ca/product/kle...kit/1001632690

Without a toner, the hard way of identifying wires is by ohm meter with long test leads. It is handy to have a meter with the continuity beep function. Get some banana plugs, alligator clips, and flexible wire to make leads that can be run the length of the boat for end to end continuity test of each wire. Of course care must be taken to insure that wires under test are actually disconnected so that you do not zap yourself and your equipment. Making a short between the ends of two wires under test is a way to check by continuity without the long test leads.



There has not been much discussion on the thread about labeling methods. It seems that good rugged labeling systems are not cheap. I have used the Critchley markers on various jobs. They are quick and convenient. Their weakness is that since every letter of the alphabet and every number must be included in a set, a kit can be costly. Upon completion of the job, there will be a lot of unused left overs. And certain characters can be depleted quickly. Systems that use a label printer require the costly printer.

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by Dieseldude

There has not been much discussion on the thread about labeling methods. It seems that good rugged labeling systems are not cheap. I have used the Critchley markers on various jobs. They are quick and convenient. Their weakness is that since every letter of the alphabet and every number must be included in a set, a kit can be costly. Upon completion of the job, there will be a lot of unused left overs. And certain characters can be depleted quickly. Systems that use a label printer require the costly printer.

Those label makers aren't too expensive any more. the DYMO Rhino 5200 is less than $180 CAD s should be even cheaper in USD. The are worth every penny if you are doing a rewire.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Paradise1

Anyone who has a boat more than a couple of years old has likely seen it. Bundles and bundles of wires and cables running up and down the boat and from bow to stern. Many are working original wires, but many are dead, being bypassed with new wires with upgraded electronics and other things. My electrician did some work last week and said most of the wire conduits and throughways are so tightly packed and full, that he couldn't run a new wire if he had to. Apparently, the problem is that with upgrades comes all new wire/cable, rarely ever pulling out the old. I know people do it, but I certainly don't have tens of thousands to rewire the boat. This seems nuts! Is there such a thing as boat de-wiring, somehow systematically tracing and removing old, obsolete wire?

If there are extra wires in there, leave them. Then use them later. Why pull them all out so you can put them in?
I did the "anal thing" once removing some old wires. Two weeks later I'm running a wire or two back in.

Of course if your boat needs rewiring due to old corroded wires that's a different thing. But run extra wires when you do!
I like that channel shaped snap shut conduit through the engine room etc. You can add wires in that, or exit a wire along the way if necessary later.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_...RoCFH8QAvD_BwE

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

If there are extra wires in there, leave them. Then use them later. Why pull them all out so you can put them in?
I did the "anal thing" once removing some old wires. Two weeks later I'm running a wire or two back in.

Of course if your boat needs rewiring due to old corroded wires that's a different thing. But run extra wires when you do!
I like that channel shaped snap shut conduit through the engine room etc. You can add wires in that, or exit a wire along the way if necessary later.

Depends on why the old wires are no longer in use. If they're from equipment that was removed, but the wires are in good condition, sure, they can be re-used in the future. But if they were replaced due to corrosion or damage, then they're just dead weight sitting there.

[JC Reefer]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Some more ...



(I literally have thousands of these )

Those pics are amazing

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

If there are extra wires in there, leave them. Then use them later. Why pull them all out so you can put them in?
I did the "anal thing" once removing some old wires. Two weeks later I'm running a wire or two back in.

Of course if your boat needs rewiring due to old corroded wires that's a different thing. But run extra wires when you do!
I like that channel shaped snap shut conduit through the engine room etc. You can add wires in that, or exit a wire along the way if necessary later.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_...RoCFH8QAvD_BwE

Nope remove redundant wires ,if you feel the need , pull through a mouse line tied to the end of the wire you’re pulling out

Wires need to be installed to suit the gear , it’s not a great idea to reuse wiring from another install.

[OldManMirage]

I would also add that not just de-wiring but de-hosing can be a thing too, as I am in the process of replacing the entire fresh water system on my 40 year old boat. Needless to say some of the old hoses are pretty gross looking and there is no way anyone would want to drink out of them.

Add to that bilge pump hoses and other things like that and you got a real mess on your hands.

But when it's all said and done, you have great satisfaction. And it's not really difficult, just takes time to do it right. I'd say one of the biggest expenses can be electrical panels if you need to replace them. I think I can get away with just breakers, but I'd love to just do the whole panel if I can. We'll see how the budget goes.

[wingless]

Yes, I always remove / retire old unused wires that have no future usage and update the OEM or my custom schematic wiring diagram whenever I perform changes or upgrades.

This task is not appropriate for many to effect as it requires a specialized skillset.