Fischer Panda Valve Adjustment

[OJJJ]

I have a Fischer Panda PMS 4500 FCB generator with a Farymann 18W430 engine. I had been using the generator on a daily basis for a year with no issues (original install 2008 now 496 running hours). Then one day the generator took an unusually long 10 second crank to start and the next time I tried to use the generator it would not start at all. I went through the entire fuel system and it all checked out. I finally checked the valve clearance and found the intake valve had 0.2 mm clearance but the exhaust valve had zero or negative clearance holding the exhaust valve slightly open! I adjusted the clearance to 0.2 mm (cold engine) and she started right up! Problem solved!

Fast forward two weeks. I'm again using the generator normally on a daily basis. Then (surprise!) the engine has an unusual long start. The next time I try to run the generator it didn't start at all. Ah ha! I've seen this trick before so I first check the valve clearance. The engine was still warm from running the night before but both the intake and the exhaust valve had zero clearance. I did not touch the intake valve but adjusted the exhaust valve to 0.1mm clearance and the engine started right up. However, now I have some unburned fuel in my exhaust and there is a new rattle in the engine.

Question: what is the proper valve clearance and valve adjustment procedure for this engine?

The book I have states states 0.1-0.2mm clearance for a cold engine. I won't have a cold engine until I stop through a marina next week. What could I expect the valve clearance to be on a warm engine?

Any other thoughts, hints or suggestions?

[bobconnie]

If I could not find a published warm setting, I would try .05 and see if it works, it should ! Even .075 would seem to me to be a good place to start. Im not a faryman mech, but if theres any warentee left I would sure try to find a Fisher-Panda person as they seem to be valve setting hater!! be carefull with warm setting the valves,because they cool rather rapedly when the covers are removed !! Just a thought

[OJJJ]

I left the covers off the generator today to cool off the engine. While not totally cold I adjusted both the intake and exhaust valves to 0.15mm. The generator started right up and seems to be running OK. I'll check more out tomorrow morning in the daylight. There is still a new rattle but it may be a loose bracket. I'll keep checking.

I'd still like to know if this is the appropriate valve clearance or what is the correct procedure for adjustment.

[perchance]

" A happy valve is a tappy valve"

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, OJJJ.

Chapter 8.9 “Adjusting Valve Clearance” ➥ http://www.dieselpower.co.uk/wp-cont...Manual-18W.pdf

[HappyMdRSailor]

Valve tighten after warmup... Your valves tightening is somewhat of a mystery with lots of possible reasons, but if it were me and I had continuing problems with this...

I would personally adjust valves hot at say 0.05...

[DeepFrz]

Are you guys all talking the same measurement here? Because if you are .05 mm is very very tight.

[a64pilot]

Although I have not read the manual that Gord posted and that IS the thing to do. Follow the manual.
In theory an engine fully up to operating temp should have close to zero valve lash.
But as already said "a happy valve is a tappy valve" rings with a lot of truth. Valves wear at the seat, which means as valves wear they tighten up or lose clearance. being a little loose to start with is not harmful and is conservative in that as wear occurs you will lose clearance. I'd set them at .1 mm hot if the manual does not give a hot clearence. A little loose won't hurt.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Are you guys all talking the same measurement here? Because if you are .05 mm is very very tight.

Deepster...

Agreed... 0.05mm = 0.002" is tight! I think most of us were going off gut feel of cold to hot values based on the OP's original data specs (.1-.2mm) and experience with how clearances change... Tough to measure, BUT>>>

0.2mm=0.008" seems like a "very normal" cold clearance... It would easily close to 0.1mm=0.004" hot... I change my answer on viewing the data in the attachment to 0.1mm hot ...

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by perchance

" A happy valve is a tappy valve"

Yes.... much better than a burndy seaty....

[OJJJ]

@GordMay - Thanks for the engine manual link! The engine manual procedure states the exhaust valve should be adjusted when the intake is fully open and vice versa. I was adjusting the valves when both valves were fully closed. I'll try and cool the engine off today and try again tonight.

[Finistere]

Entec West which uses a Farryman Engine suggest checking valve clearance every 300 hours and set the clearance to .006 inch.

Put the Handcrank into the Camshaft and rotate it counterclock-wise until you feel hard resistance from compression. Check the gap between the valve stem and the anvil on the rocker with a feeler gauge. There should be a very slight drag with a .006 inch gauge.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by OJJJ

@GordMay - Thanks for the engine manual link! The engine manual procedure states the exhaust valve should be adjusted when the intake is fully open and vice versa. I was adjusting the valves when both valves were fully closed. I'll try and cool the engine off today and try again tonight.

That's unusual, I've always checked valves at TDC on compression stroke

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

That's unusual, I've always checked valves at TDC on compression stroke

Tis definitely SOP.... But... Maybe the cam profile starts ramping ever so slightly @ TDC???

[OJJJ]

I set the valves to 0.006" per the operating manual procedure and I guess the engine is "happy tappy". It will get a workout next week when we're back on the water. Thanks for all the thoughts above!