Anchor Roller Refurbishment?

[nigelmercier]

My Anchor Roller needs refurbishment.




It occurred to me that I could just replace the middle of the rollers, so two tapers on the sides, and a flatter section in the middle. Something like this:



For the axles I hope to bore and tap the existing rods and use countersunk M6 A2 screws. Is this a good plan?

Has anyone else replaced their rollers? How did you do it?

[Stu Jackson]

try a trailer supply vendor. That's big enough to look like the roller on the front of a boat trailer. I've seen them in West Marine, but, of course, you'd never go there because of the high prices.

[captjcook]

Wind line is one manufacturer, their rollers are marathane which holds up. Trailer rollers are not up to the task and wear out quickly under chain load.

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...odid=undefined

I recommend using loctite on screws...


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[svHyLyte]

The wear patterns on those rollers should be telling you that the rollers don't--roll that is. I suspect if you dismount them you'll find that the pin holes have been worn elliptical such that, when loaded up, the rollers simply don't roll freely. The pins that act as the "axles" of the rollers may also be bent, adding to the problem, which can happen when an anchor roller is overloaded. (Keep in mind that an anchor roller is designed to support the weight of the anchor rode and anchor as they are deployed/recovered, but not "in service". Service loads should/need be carried by snubbers, not the anchor roller,)

It would be wise to entirely replace the rollers and likely the pins. If you cannot find OEM replacements, there are any number of after market vendors. One could also get by with a slightly under width roller from a different manufacturer by using cut washers as bushings on either side of a too narrow roller so long as the gap between the side plates and the shoulders of the roller is too narrow to allow the rode to become lodged.

FWIW...

[MarkJ]

I make my own rollers.
The op's suggestion to add a section in the middle of the old roller with my method would work well:

I use grey PVC electrical conduit. It lasts a couple of years. I found a foot of it in Turkey 5 years ago and cut another 2 inch piece every 2 years or so.
No need for a groove as the snubbed takes the chain tension off the chain.

Sent from a stupid phone that replaces words with weird stuff.

[Spade Anchor]

We have an easy option for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNFpc_DwTN8

[Mantus 1]

Hello nigelmercier, We have some bow roller assemblies on our website. Take a look and let me know if the roller would be something you would like? Then let me know what size you would need. Bolt size, and how wide it needs to be. I hope we have one that will work for you. We do have just the roller available in some sizes.

[Jim Cate]

General comment:

I believe that making the diameter of the roller as large as possible within the constraints of your assembly will substantially reduce the frictional losses in hoisting the tackle. For example, for 10 mm short link chain, I like a rolling diameter of around three inches or more. Few, if any commercial rollers offer such, so a bit of lathe work may be required, but the rewards are worth the trouble IMO.

And further, I believe in making the whole thing strong enough to easily absorb working loads. The maximum forces don't occur whilst anchored, even in storm conditions. Rather, they occur when breaking out a buried anchor in lumpy conditions. It is all very well to say that you shouldn't apply those loads to roller or windlass, but in reality, it will happen, and a bent roller axle or windlass shaft at that time is a bother!

Jim

[nigelmercier]

Update on completed unit. I increased the axles to 16mm, narrowed the whole swivel unit by 4mm to allow for a small protrusion of the screw heads and made 2mm washers out of acetyl.

[Spade Anchor]

[QUOTE=nigelmercier;2146538]Update on completed unit. I increased the axles to 16mm, narrowed the whole swivel unit by 4mm to allow for a small protrusion of the screw heads and made 2mm washers out of acetyl.



Nice setup, very similar to the one we produce.

A small suggestion, the screws you have that go into the rollers, you may want to replace them with a bolt that goes all the way though the roller with at nut on the other side. This small change will make it a lot more robust.

[barnakiel]

Very nice. The design calls for a swivel so I assume you have one already.

As I do not use a swivel we used keel rollers for our re-furb.

You did very nice job: looks great and sure will serve years!

Cheers,
b.

[nigelmercier]

Originally Posted by Spade Anchor

... A small suggestion, the screws you have that go into the rollers, you may want to replace them with a bolt that goes all the way though the roller with at nut on the other side...

No room, see picture in OP.