RIB repair. Hypalon and ?

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Easy. Sure. That's the ticket. Nothing to it. I highly recommend you jump right in.

Ever hear the old saying, misery loves company?

Maybe I'll just run a strip a duct tape around the boat & call it a rubrail!

[Ericson38]

I would try a section with 3m's 4000 first, before going the 5200 route. There is a poster here who had good luck with his.

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by Ericson38

I would try a section with 3m's 4000 first, before going the 5200 route. There is a poster here who had good luck with his.

I've never actually used 4000. Does it have the same adhesive properties as 5200?

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I've never actually used 4000. Does it have the same adhesive properties as 5200?

It’s not as tenacious as 5200, how much less? Difficult to quantify, it’s sort of like red and blue loctite.

[skipmac]

In this situation I think you want the most tenacious stuff you can get so I think I would stick with 5200.





Yes, there was a pun in there.

[Scout 30]

[QUOTE=skipmac;2647188]In this situation I think you want the most tenacious stuff you can get so I think I would stick with 5200.






I have to agree there. Failure is not an option!

[Jim Cate]

One issue with 5200 is the long cure time. This was an issue with us when we glued in a new floor on an old Zodiac Mk II. It can be difficult to keep everything aligned and in place while the 5200 cures.

I think there is a "fast cure" 5200 available, but don't know if it's adhesive properties are the same... or how "fast" fast is!

Jim

[Ericson38]

4000 has a 22 minute exact fixture time. 5200 has a 30 hour exact fixture time.

Exact Fixture Time

Fixture time refers to how much time the product can be repositioned or handled after application and before it reaches full cure. Fixture times vary depending on the application and size of the object. Fixture time is also referred to as green time, set time, and time to handling strength.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Ericson38

4000 has a 22 minute exact fixture time. 5200 has a 30 hour exact fixture time.

Exact Fixture Time

Fixture time refers to how much time the product can be repositioned or handled after application and before it reaches full cure. Fixture times vary depending on the application and size of the object. Fixture time is also referred to as green time, set time, and time to handling strength.

Is that for the standard 5200 or the fast cure? All I found so far on the 3M website for the fast cure says tack free in 1-2 hours, full cure typically 48 hours.

[KD8NPB]

As a professional with inflatables, I strongly discourage the usage of 5200, 4200, 4000, and all other polyurethane type adhesive/sealants for this use.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by KD8NPB

As a professional with inflatables, I strongly discourage the usage of 5200, 4200, 4000, and all other polyurethane type adhesive/sealants for this use.

Thanks for the post but can you elaborate as to why you don't like polyurethanes for inflatable repair.

[anacapaisland42]

Hi Richard,

I'm interested why, I need edicatin"
Tx Bill

Originally Posted by KD8NPB

As a professional with inflatables, I strongly discourage the usage of 5200, 4200, 4000, and all other polyurethane type adhesive/sealants for this use.

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by KD8NPB

As a professional with inflatables, I strongly discourage the usage of 5200, 4200, 4000, and all other polyurethane type adhesive/sealants for this use.

I'd also like to know why & what exactly do you recommend?

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I'd also like to know why & what exactly do you recommend?

I don't its so much of don't use, but more why not use the proper stuff for hypalon:

PVC or Hypalon? | Polymarine Paints, Adhesives, Parts & Accessories

Most folk make the mistake of putting too much glue on and then it doesn't bond correctly. Watch the professionals repair ribs and they apply a very thin coat to both sides, time the cure and then fasten together. However, before we get to this stage they will have also thoroughly roughed up the surface with a disk sander, then cleaned the surface with MEK type cleaner.

Done properly it won't fall off again. If an edge is exposed then tape up and run a bead of sikaflex with a wet finger to produce a thin wedge to protect the seam from lifting. Remove tape and don't touch it until it's dry.

One of a series of good video's about making tubes. Sadly Paul passed away but his daughter has taken over the reins.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQlMyjJoi6o

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Pete7

I don't its so much of don't use, but more why not use the proper stuff for hypalon:

Hi Pete,

In my specific situation and the reason I started the thread was because I was bonding Hypalon with PVC, not just Hypalon. Working just with Hypalon was not an issue and there are several excellent products for that but research confirmed PVC requires very different products and techniques and Hypalon specific adhesives do not work with PVC.

Researching bonding the two I found very conflicting and ambiguous information so followed up with phone calls to tech support at several adhesive manufacturers. Most agreed that their product was formulated for one material or the other, one notable exception being MarineTex FlexSet and many anecdotal reports from boaters that used 5200.

Based on the best information I could garner for bonding the two very different materials those are the products I used and a couple of years later both seem to be fine. If I was doing strictly Hypalon repair I would of course follow a completely different route and go with the proper Hypalon specific product.