Spreader End Covers - Mother of Invention...

[Obi Wan]

Originally Posted by Mendana

Obi Wan, what you need is leather hide. Very soft, smooth and I suspect what you had on there before.

What was on there before was a custom fit PVC cap or something similar. Very low friction. You can see the remnants of the one remaining in the picture. Worked well but just wore out from the sun. I can't see using leather. Won't be low friction when wet and a lot of work to put on.

I have an idea I will try made from a nearly impervious material - will be unique I think. I'll post pics when done.

[boatman61]

Been using sheepskin oddments for years..

[first wind]

Originally Posted by Obi Wan

What was on there before was a custom fit PVC cap or something similar. Very low friction. You can see the remnants of the one remaining in the picture. Worked well but just wore out from the sun. I can't see using leather. Won't be low friction when wet and a lot of work to put on.

I have an idea I will try made from a nearly impervious material - will be unique I think. I'll post pics when done.

i look forward to seeing your idea. i will be needing to do something for my boat

[Sailorbob8599]

Those spreader ends look very similar to mine.
I lucked out and bought a new pair of 'boots' either white rubber or plastic (they felt like rubber) from Pacific Marine Exchange of Bellingham, WN before they went out of business. Sorry i don't have a manufacturers name but maybe someone else knows who make these things.
BTW, where dd all the stock go from that store when they closed the door forever? i

[JPA Cate]

FWIW, there has been no problem with our leather spreader boots, have used them for over 20 yrs, on two different boats. So, if it's something someone is interested in trying, don't let the moisture retention issue bother you. Nor have we had it damage any of our genoas .

Ann

[builder dan]

I have seen a few very corroded spreader tips which the covers had been hiding,Check under them once a year.

[thruska]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

Just out of interest, the soft, yet thick, hard wearing leather is called chromed leather due to it's method of tanning. This is the stuff that welding gloves and the like are made out of.

Having just refurbished my old PVC spreader boots and reused them, I'm not so sure I'd like leather that could stay damp in contact with aluminium and stainless steel. I'd much prefer synthetic materials for this reason.

Sent from my SGP521 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

Industrial all weather fabric.
Sail-lite or Weblon
Contact them for a sample or remnant.
It's tougher than Sunbrella.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Elk Hide - as used by riggers. Probably the #1 option. Design & sew your own.
UHMW Plastic - molded, & or sewn
Cloth - Especially onto the sails, ditto for thin UHMW sheet
Spectra chafe covers, & or patches. Add to all offending bits; rigging & sails
Spreader wheels
Rubberized plastic spreader boots
PVC - tubing or pipe. The latter can be heat molded
Tennis balls

Smooth & mold (by addition & subtraction of material) all sharp rigging; ends, fittings, & bits, prior to adding other protection, such as chafe pro, or covers onto things.

[Schooner Chandlery]

We don't have boots on the main spreaders but I sewed on some leather on the foresail spreaders just in case. I used dark maroon latigo which isn't ideal in color but it was what I had available at the moment. It is longer wearing/tougher than the typical chrome-tan leather which most people use. Either will work fine though.

[rpeskett]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

Just out of interest, the soft, yet thick, hard wearing leather is called chromed leather due to it's method of tanning. This is the stuff that welding gloves and the like are made out of.

Having just refurbished my old PVC spreader boots and reused them, I'm not so sure I'd like leather that could stay damp in contact with aluminium and stainless steel. I'd much prefer synthetic materials for this reason.

Sent from my SGP521 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

Regarding "...leather that could stay damp in contact with aluminium and stainless steel. I'd much prefer synthetic materials for this reason," I agree! I'm surprised by how many people favored leather and didn't mention your concern. Stainless + aluminum + water - a corrosion inhibiter = trouble.

Rick

[S/V Adeline]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

Just out of interest, the soft, yet thick, hard wearing leather is called chromed leather due to it's method of tanning. This is the stuff that welding gloves and the like are made out of.

Having just refurbished my old PVC spreader boots and reused them, I'm not so sure I'd like leather that could stay damp in contact with aluminium and stainless steel. I'd much prefer synthetic materials for this reason.

Sent from my SGP521 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

I have a couple welding uppers, half jacket with sleeves made as you describe, unfortunately most gloves now are basic thin leather with a dual internal synthetic crap layers to provide heat and cut resistant protection that tough leather used to provide. Company can get these much cheaper than traditional style, they are crap.
Regardless of type of leather, it should be bone dry after a couple hours of sunlight. My gloves are dry and stiff every morning just be leaving them on top of my toolbox at the end of day, I wouldn't worry about them holding moisture in the sun and air.

[wingssail]

For me the key requirements were to make a blunt end to prevent piercing the expensive sail (mistakes happen!) and to have a very slippery surface so the sail slides across easily.

I tried leather which were hard to make and sew up there and rubber which was not slippery and duct tape(!) which didn't last.

Now I use a heavy piece of reinforced mylar UV resistant film (I got some PSA film from Challenge. Your sailmaker should have some of this) which is simply wrapped around over a little tape for padding and taped on. I figure I'll have to replace it often but so far it's lasted over a year in the hot Mexico sunlight and it works well.

It takes 30 seconds to put one on.

[barnakiel]

Buy strips of spinnaker nylon from a local loft. Wrap to your heart's content.


b.

[Dymaxion]

Mine must be old school, cork donuts over the shrouds above the spreaders. They rest on top of the spreaders, spin freely and can float up or down. Possibly slices from old fishing floats.