Cutlass bearing removal without removing shaft

[Fuss]

I see there are some threads on similar subjects back in 2011, but I think this is ok as a new one....

My cutlass bearing is in a tube extending back to the hull so it is not possible to use a puller.
The current replacement method is to remove the prop and then the shaft and then damage the cutlass bearing until it comes out.

Has anyone experience with leaving the cutlass bearing say 10mm protruding?

I then might be in future, able to replace by only removing the prop, loosening the cutlass bearing grub screws and then getting a pipe wrench onto the protruding part.

any comments on this idea?

[sailormed]

The metal on the outside of the cutlass bearing is very thin. As soon as you grab it the pressure will be on the shaft. Not sure that this method will work.

[tkeithlu]

Agreed. You would likely be back at cutting it up with a chisel. Even if you did manage to turn it you still need to pull it out, and remove the prop to replace it.

My bearing has a loose fit, and I crank it out by removing the shaft and then connecting a hook up beyond the bearing down to my truck trailer hitch with a come-along. You might be able to drill a couple of holes in the protruding bearing that then allowed you to hook on to it and pull in an otherwise similar fashion.

[wsmurdoch]

My Pacific Seacraft cutless bearing is installed into a tube in the aft face of the keel. The yard cuts a groove in the brass shell near one end then installs the bearing with the groove exposed. When it is time to pull the cutless bearing out, they grasp the groove between the jaws of a bearing separator (bearing splitter) and jack it out using the two threaded holes in the separator. The bearing separator should grab a significant fraction of the cutless bearing circumference and be the proper size.
My son-in-law has done similar with a similar jury rigged device (and without the groove) made from two parts from a pair of Advance Auto exhaust pipe U-bolts and some bits from his garage.
Bill

[boat driver]

why the reluctance to pull the shaft?
this gives opportunity to inspect shaft for other wear issues /cracking, etc/

[dennismenace111]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Agreed. You would likely be back at cutting it up with a chisel. Even if you did manage to turn it you still need to pull it out, and remove the prop to replace it.

My bearing has a loose fit, and I crank it out by removing the shaft and then connecting a hook up beyond the bearing down to my truck trailer hitch with a come-along. You might be able to drill a couple of holes in the protruding bearing that then allowed you to hook on to it and pull in an otherwise similar fashion.

Lucky guy... I have to remove my engine and pull the shaft into the boat as the rudder prohibits pulling the shaft. Or drop the rudder... thats even more difficult as access to the rudder log is almost impossible unless youre 16 years old and can bend like a pretzel and work by touch only.

[Jesse]

It seems like what you're considering would be more complicated and time consuming than removing the prop-shaft

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by wsmurdoch

My Pacific Seacraft cutless bearing is installed into a tube in the aft face of the keel. The yard cuts a groove in the brass shell near one end then installs the bearing with the groove exposed. When it is time to pull the cutless bearing out, they grasp the groove between the jaws of a bearing separator (bearing splitter) and jack it out using the two threaded holes in the separator. The bearing separator should grab a significant fraction of the cutless bearing circumference and be the proper size.
My son-in-law has done similar with a similar jury rigged device (and without the groove) made from two parts from a pair of Advance Auto exhaust pipe U-bolts and some bits from his garage.
Bill

I managed to do this but didn't need the bearing splitter, once the set screws were removed, it came out easily, maybe abit too easy.
I sanded the new bearing shell and inner tube, removed the sending dust with acetone.
Then a light coating of thinned epoxy and slid it into position with a bit still to push in 1/2".
Be sure to dimple the bearing shell and reinstall set screws, I used 1/4 20 X 1/4" SS for this, very important to do this step.
Be sure to check your alignment in vitro.
Here's a picture of the finished process.
SV Cloud Duster

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Jesse

It seems like what you're considering would be more complicated and time consuming than removing the prop-shaft

Removing the shaft is a more time consuming task.
Especially if the coupler isn't newish.
These couplers are a light press fit to the shaft when new.
Pulling can be damaging, if not impossible.
You would then have to cut it off and at that point you'd pull the shaft.
It took 1 day to do this repair on my vessel.
SV Cloud Duster

[Fuss]

Originally Posted by Boatyarddog

I managed to do this but didn't need the bearing splitter, once the set screws were removed, it came out easily, maybe abit too easy.

I sanded the new bearing shell and inner tube, removed the sending dust with acetone.

Then a light coating of thinned epoxy and slid it into position with a bit still to push in 1/2".

Be sure to dimple the bearing shell and reinstall set screws, I used 1/4 20 X 1/4" SS for this, very important to do this step.

Be sure to check your alignment in vitro.

Here's a picture of the finished process.

SV Cloud Duster

Thankyou very much, This is the answer I was looking for. I’m going to do something similar so the cutlass bearing can be removed by just removing the prop and then pulling the exposed part of the bearing.

[Whitby42]

I had my cutlass bearing replaced at Sadler Point Marina here in Jacksonville, Florida on a 1978 Whitby 42. the existing cutlass was install incorrectly and we had to remove prop, and pull the shaft to remove. When reinstalled, the mechanic made a point to leave the cutlass bearing sticking out about 10 to 12 mm so the process to remove in the future would not require doing more than removing the prop. I also have an enclosed prop from rudder design which does not interfere with removal of the shaft. When rudder is positioned to either side, it leaves ample room to pull shaft straight out.

[Whitby42]

This is my first post after reading many interesting post over the last two years.

[Stasis]

I am curious how this turned out for the OP?

I am in a similar situation. 57' motor cruiser needing a cutlass bearing replaced. It has a long shaft tube so accessing from inside is not an option. I would prefer to not have to pull the shaft and all as it's an older boat with a long shaft and coupling isn't in the best shape. Also I don't think the shaft would come out without removing the rudder. Any recommendations or advice would be greatly appreciated!

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Stasis

I am curious how this turned out for the OP?

I am in a similar situation. 57' motor cruiser needing a cutlass bearing replaced. It has a long shaft tube so accessing from inside is not an option. I would prefer to not have to pull the shaft and all as it's an older boat with a long shaft and coupling isn't in the best shape. Also I don't think the shaft would come out without removing the rudder. Any recommendations or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Longer shafts such as the boat you pictured may even have a pillow block to support the forward end from sag.
You'll have to look at the centerline of the shaft to see if it will clear the rudder,
50/50 chance it will.
I think you'll have to haul and remove the shaft for this one, but more detailed pictures would help here.
My advise is if you need it bite the bullet and do it.
SV Cloud Duster

[kapnd]

You’d think by now some genius would be selling cut less bearings equipped with a flange at the aft end, or even threads and a large nut to at least initiate some movement.