Trim for smaller replacement portlights

[Cyrus Safdari]

So I'm in the process of installing smaller replacement portlights on my boat, and I've built up the cabin around former holes to take smaller ports. The question is what to do about the unsightly gap inside the cabin, between the liner and new portholes. There's about an inch of space running lengthwise beneath the new porrhole and about a 5x7 gap in front. I cant possibly fill it in and match the texture of the liner; I think my only real option is to cover it with some sort of trim, like vinyl material or I was thinking of buying some fiberglass reinforced board and cutting out trim to cover the gap. Any other tips or suggestions? Or photos?

Thx

[skipmac]

What size ports? I have several teak trim pieces made for 5"X12" ports that I didn't use. Will make you a deal if they fit yours.


Skip

[Cyrus Safdari]

They're larger than that, i'm using Lewmar #3 replacement. I could use a piece of teak laminate but wood would stand out too much. I need something to match the existing liner

[skipmac]

The trim rings I have are larger than the 5X12. 5X12 is the size of the hole in the cabin so the inside measurement of the trim matches that. The outside dimensions of the trim pieces I'm guessing is about 8X15. Is that even close?

[Reefmagnet]

A vinyl floor tile cut to shape hides a lot of sins. If you use one, remove the original stick-on glue and use contact cement to glue into place.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

A vinyl floor tile cut to shape hides a lot of sins. If you use one, remove the original stick-on glue and use contact cement to glue into place.

Or a sheet of shower stall plastic. Make a template and cut a solid piece for the entire wall section, instead of trying to cover each port I do visually. . Nice, bright white.

[Cyrus Safdari]

Originally Posted by Paul L

Or a sheet of shower stall plastic.

Is that like the "FRP wall panel" in smooth white that the Lowes Hardware website offers, but for ordering only not available in stores? I would have wanted to check it out, if I didn't have to order it. Solid sheets of fiberglass would come in handy for many projects, if that's what it is. Otherwise, I was considering laying up my own panels.

One long panel going down each side covering all the portholes would exceed the 8 ft length of these Lowes panels, so Ill have to either make a trim piece for each or couple ports, glass over a seam or preferably just cover the seam with a piece of teak trim.

For me the advantage is that a panel would cover the poor paint job by the PO which is blistering and peeling. Sticking vinyl headliner material to that is a losing bet, and I dont want to deal with the paint job issue just yet.

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by Paul L

Or a sheet of shower stall plastic. Make a template and cut a solid piece for the entire wall section, instead of trying to cover each port I do visually. . Nice, bright white.

That's actually exactly what we are using for our portlights, so i agree. The only issue is that the edges need to be covered with trim if not extended full length and width as the product is about 1/8" thick and the core dark brown in colour. Vinyl floor tiles are much thinner, easier to cut and the edges can be left exposed without sacrificing appearance too much.

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[Cyrus Safdari]

White gelcoat along the edges?

My old ports were 3 feet long so I guess I could use vinyl floor sheeting as trim rather than 12X12 tiles that would leave a couple seams?

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by Cyrus Safdari

White gelcoat along the edges?

My old ports were 3 feet long so I guess I could use vinyl floor sheeting as trim rather than 12X12 tiles that would leave a couple seams?

The stall panels have butt and corner joiner trims that look quite smart. Pinchweld is an option for exposed edges.

Vinyl flooring is thin enough that you don't really need to be concerned too much with the edges. The are designed to be layed with exposed seams, after all.

[Cheechako]

Pics would help. What are you trying to match? I have some plastic sheets , mottled on one side. But they are probably 1/4" thick.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

That's actually exactly what we are using for our portlights, so i agree. The only issue is that the edges need to be covered with trim if not extended full length and width as the product is about 1/8" thick and the core dark brown in colour. Vinyl floor tiles are much thinner, easier to cut and the edges can be left exposed without sacrificing appearance too much.

Sent from my SGP521 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

The stuff I've used is white all the way through. The sheets are large so there shouldn't be a lot of seems.

[bmax242]

hi you can go to a plastic supply store , not sure who to recommend in your area , but you can get sheets of abs plastic in various thickness's and colors in 4 x 4 or 4 x 8 sheets you can cut this to fit around your windows and it is water resistant and has a nice finished look..you can screw on with little caps so the screws will not show or use flush head screws and paint them .....hope this helps

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by bmax242

hi you can go to a plastic supply store , not sure who to recommend in your area , but you can get sheets of abs plastic in various thickness's and colors in 4 x 4 or 4 x 8 sheets you can cut this to fit around your windows and it is water resistant and has a nice finished look..you can screw on with little caps so the screws will not show or use flush head screws and paint them .....hope this helps

Or glue

[bmax242]

i don't recommend glue as if you need to remove the trim for any reason it is a hassle there are sealers u can use 3m 5200/5300 or silicone screws work well ...also the abs has different finishes for different looks. A little sandpaper can help to smooth the edge if you do not get a smooth cut.
cheers all