Sealing slightly over-sized hose

[Kenomac]

I'd try the new rubber space age military shrink tape being sold at the boat shows, I've used it successfully a few times for the same problem. It only requires a couple of wraps to increase the fitting size to match the hose. Then you'll be able to clamp the hose down tight.

It's not a bad idea to have a dozen or so rolls of this tape onboard for emergencies to close of leaks. It's the kind that stretches and only sticks to itself. It's actually mean for this sort of purpose.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

I think the thread got side tracked from the question. So anyone else with a "best" method for sealing loose barbed hose fittings other than tape?

If you're dealing with a situation where a failed connection could sink your boat, I don't think there is a "best" method for sealing loose barbed hose fittings other than tape.

I think what you need is an adaptor to adapt the size hose that fits your generator to the size hose that fits your seacock or thruhull. Having written this and reading it, have you considered changing the seacock and thruhull to match the size that fits the generator?


You could make an adapter by buying two bronze barbed fittings, one to fit each sized hose and then taking them to a welding shop and having them welded or brazed together.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by sailorboy1

I think the thread got side tracked from the question. So anyone else with a "best" method for sealing loose barbed hose fittings other than tape?

Best method is to use the hose that is slightly too small for the fitting, use a heat gun on the end of the hose that will soften it and make it more flexible, lube the fitting with a few drops of dish washing detergent and the hose should slide right on. I have even used this method with reinforced hoses with success.

When the hose cools it will firm up and grip the fitting so well that to get off you have to reheat it or cut it off.

[Canuck Sailor]

I use a large piece of heat shrink tubing, cut it to the length of the barb and then heat the heat shrink and tubing if necessary to get the hose over the enlarged barb. No leaks, no seams and it works very well.
1/2" to 5/8" no problem. I have used two layers to step up from 1/2" to 3/4" in an emergency when out of touch with no problems and left it as it worked so well.
Different sizes of heat shrink tubing are a great emergency fix for many things. Oar grips/handles that don't slip are another use with giant heat shrink tubing.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Best method is to use the hose that is slightly too small for the fitting, use a heat gun on the end of the hose that will soften it and make it more flexible, lube the fitting with a few drops of dish washing detergent and the hose should slide right on. I have even used this method with reinforced hoses with success.

When the hose cools it will firm up and grip the fitting so well that to get off you have to reheat it or cut it off.

BTW, don't use heat on that stiff white poly hose if you are ever using it. It later cracks!

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

BTW, don't use heat on that stiff white poly hose if you are ever using it. It later cracks!

Oh. Now you tell me.

I better go back and check on what kind of hose I used on all the fittings. By poly do you mean poly vinyl chloride (PVC) hose?

Off the top of my head the only ones I recall that were white were flexible PVC hose, 3/4" and 1" and I don't think I had to use heat on that but maybe.

The hose that really needed heat was the clear, reinforced, below water line rated, bilge pump hose. The reinforcing bit was non-metallic but a coil of some kind of stiff plastic colored green.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Canuck Sailor

Different sizes of heat shrink tubing are a great emergency fix for many things. Oar grips/handles that don't slip are another use with giant heat shrink tubing.

Good idea. Might have to get a bit of giant heat shrink for the spares bin.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Oh. Now you tell me.

I better go back and check on what kind of hose I used on all the fittings. By poly do you mean poly vinyl chloride (PVC) hose?

Off the top of my head the only ones I recall that were white were flexible PVC hose, 3/4" and 1" and I don't think I had to use heat on that but maybe.

The hose that really needed heat was the clear, reinforced, below water line rated, bilge pump hose. The reinforcing bit was non-metallic but a coil of some kind of stiff plastic colored green.

Here's a pic of the type. It has a hard plastic "wire" reinforcing. It doesn't stretch at all and so can be very difficult to get on fitting of the stated size. When it first came out I thought it may be great, for head hoses etc because it's mostly non permeable. So I installed it on one boat. It seems so damn tough. Had to heat to get on the fittings. Within a couple months I noticed circular cracks happening on the hose.. one was spraying water like a bandit! I will no longer use it for marine application on anything. I also had a failure using it for home use between a pump that vibrated and a solid pipe.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

It's not a bad idea to have a dozen or so rolls of this tape onboard for emergencies to close of leaks. It's the kind that stretches and only sticks to itself. It's actually mean for this sort of purpose.

They call it "Rescue" tape here. Less expensive at a hardware store than a marine store, but then again what isn't?

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Here's a pic of the type. It has a hard plastic "wire" reinforcing. It doesn't stretch at all and so can be very difficult to get on fitting of the stated size. When it first came out I thought it may be great, for head hoses etc because it's mostly non permeable. So I installed it on one boat. It seems so damn tough. Had to heat to get on the fittings. Within a couple months I noticed circular cracks happening on the hose.. one was spraying water like a bandit! I will no longer use it for marine application on anything.

That does look exactly like the flexible PVC hose I used in a couple of spots, including water supply line to the head and vent lines from the holding tanks. I worked on so many hoses at that time I can't remember if I heated that one or not. Guess I'll find out in a few months.

At least the tank vent lines won't be under pressure.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

I'd try the new rubber space age military shrink tape being sold at the boat shows, I've used it successfully a few times for the same problem. It only requires a couple of wraps to increase the fitting size to match the hose. Then you'll be able to clamp the hose down tight.

It's not a bad idea to have a dozen or so rolls of this tape onboard for emergencies to close of leaks. It's the kind that stretches and only sticks to itself. It's actually mean for this sort of purpose.

Found this tape years ago and immediately threw out every roll I had of regular electrical tape which is 100% guaranteed to turn into a gooey mess after a couple of years on a boat.

The shrink tape aka rescue tape is good for all sorts of stuff but even from the hardware store it isn't cheap. If I recall it's also UV resistant.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

They call it "Rescue" tape here. Less expensive at a hardware store than a marine store, but then again what isn't?

Yeah, Rescue Tape is just a retailers name for the self amalgamating electrical tape I mentioned early on. Commercial electricians use it on 600 volt line fittings etc. Good to something like 350 degrees and becomes one mass of product once used. Has to be cut off. I've seen it in construction up to 3" wide.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-...-tape/=122edp4

[sailorboy1]

Trident told me once to never heat hose.

[a64pilot]

This stuff will take to heat and stretch very well, so far without any failures.

Shop Watts 3/4-in x 1-ft Reinforced PVC Reinforced Braided Vinyl Tubing at Lowes.com

[foufou]

The barbed fittings for pex pipe are a smidge smaller than regular barb fittings. That might be useful but you might have to redo there threaded end with a metric pipe die