Repairing a Wooden Hull

[minaret]

Originally Posted by jzaraschi

I have seen the results of the Vaitses system, which coincidental happened to be on a 40' S/S sloop. Boat was dried, the method was followed to a 'T'. The boat leaked. Why? Well you have old weak frames with old weak floors, with old weak fasteners and keel bolts.............none of which were replaced.........So now you are out sailing, all the weight wants to move around when heeled over.................get the picture. Over time the glass separated from the hull ( I saw the inspection holes...you could put your fingers between the glass and the hull) at the turn of the bilge............and there you have it a rot sandwich.

Perhaps to a 'T' is not quite right. The full Vaitses method involves using the original hull as a plug to build a new glass hull in place on it. The glass thickness must be correct for hull size, often 1/2" or more of solid glass laid directly on the original hull. Then one countersinks and counterbores for bolts through all the frames of the original hull, and screws into the planking. Then several more plies of glass are laid over all to cover the fasteners. This means adhesion between the glass and the wood is not necessary, as their is a strong mechanical fastening method in place. The original wood hull could rot away completely and you'd be left with a mold for it. I have seen many examples of a relatively thin skin coat described as "Vaitses Method", but it's just not. Very few examples of the full method are out there. It's only worth doing to preserve a very old historic hull shape, and IMHO even then cold molding is a superior approach. But the full method has been used to great success in a number of cases.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by ddefabry

...Is it possible to haul, strip the bottom paint down to the wood and fiberglass over the wood?...

Extremely bad tech.

What you are suggesting is a magic Band-Aid that you can slap onto the outside of your wooden boat to instantly erase decades of abuse, and neglect.

Fuggetaboutit!

[lateral]

https://boatfolly.shutterfly.com/pictures/8#

What we did.
Edge glued (resorcinol) badly, versus tired 3 skin (?)
Advised against it, but did it anyway.

[Cadence]

If should choose to go that route. I would look into C-flex or at least staple the first layer on with Monel or SS staples. JMHO

[Olddave]

Originally Posted by ddefabry

My Sparkman & Stevens 40 has a leaky hull. It'd double planked mahogany over oak frames. Is it possible to haul, strip the bottom paint down to the wood and fiberglass over the wood? Is this possible? Suggestions?

Hi ddefabry
Just don't do it! Wooden boats should be repaired with WOOD not fibreglass.

[crazyoldboatguy]

Greetings - I would suggest strongly against covering the hull with glass. Unless you are prepared to add enough layers to counteract the movement of the wood and also cover it from the inside as well - impractical.

I have replanked my 70 y/o Alden ketch but first insured that the ribs, floors, stringers, clamps and shelves were all in tip top condition along with replacing all the iron bolts. The planking was bronze fastened and was all sealed inside and out with CPES and the seams were splined as well as all the butt joints were scarfed. Of course, then, there was no longer any need to even consider using any fiberglass.

I don't know if a double planked hull could be splined in situ - only the outside layer being accessible. I think you should start with a full evaluation of the hull to find out where it is leaking and why. Don't just do "something".

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by jzaraschi

I have seen the results of the Vaitses system, which coincidental happened to be on a 40' S/S sloop. Boat was dried, the method was followed to a 'T'. The boat leaked. Why? Well you have old weak frames with old weak floors, with old weak fasteners and keel bolts.............none of which were replaced.........So now you are out sailing, all the weight wants to move around when heeled over.................get the picture. Over time the glass separated from the hull ( I saw the inspection holes...you could put your fingers between the glass and the hull) at the turn of the bilge............and there you have it a rot sandwich.

Totally agree. Long term success by an expert is slim. There is absolutely no chance of even short term success by an amateur.