pourable filler

[ssanzone]

i am looking for a product that i can pour, shape / mold and will dry hard. it needs to be sandable and closed cell so I can later epoxy to it.

i am leveling and smoothing the hull in advance of laying down the new sole... evening out the high and low spots in the hull.

surfacing putty will work well but required volume (and incremental progress vs single application) makes it less than ideal.

thoughts on a product?

-steve

[Roy M]

I wanted to fill the spots in my hull where the stringers would catch water and crud, thereby making it possible to drain that water into the bilge. I mixed West System with 407 filler (phenolic spheres or "micro-balloons") to a consistency where it would self-level. It worked like a charm. For deeper areas, specifically, the engine compartment bilge, where I could trowel, I first used spray foam, leveled it out as best I could, then used the epoxy with filler to do the final leveling. Before foaming, however, I installed two-inch electrical conduits, one just to connect the bilges forward and aft of the compartment, for drainage, the other for any future needs.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Roy M

I wanted to fill the spots in my hull where the stringers would catch water and crud, thereby making it possible to drain that water into the bilge. I mixed West System with 407 filler (phenolic spheres or "micro-balloons") to a consistency where it would self-level. It worked like a charm. For deeper areas, specifically, the engine compartment bilge, where I could trowel, I first used spray foam, leveled it out as best I could, then used the epoxy with filler to do the final leveling. Before foaming, however, I installed two-inch electrical conduits, one just to connect the bilges forward and aft of the compartment, for drainage, the other for any future needs.

WEST epoxy should not be used as a pourable, because the exotherm temps are too high if poured in thickness of more than about 1/4", which often leads to cracking and long term failure. If you read the manuals you will see that it is not supposed to be applied in thickness more than this. If you must use WEST this way, use Tropical hardener and multiple thin pours. WEST is also relatively heavy and expensive when mixed this way.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by ssanzone

i am looking for a product that i can pour, shape / mold and will dry hard. it needs to be sandable and closed cell so I can later epoxy to it.

i am leveling and smoothing the hull in advance of laying down the new sole... evening out the high and low spots in the hull.

surfacing putty will work well but required volume (and incremental progress vs single application) makes it less than ideal.

thoughts on a product?

-steve

If you need to make a big pour, Chockfast Orange. Not very easily shapeable, but it will not crack and you can make massive pours with it.

[daddle]

Blocks of lightweight foam, or two part foam. Then laminate over it. Any other way, for fills over a centimeter, is kinda "shadetree" and heavy too.

[Roy M]

Guess I must be lucky. No problems observed. All of the times I've done it.... As for cost, time is money, too. I use what I've got.

[Benz]

Check out the horribly expensive products made by Belzona for that purpose. Might be worth it. Or you could be old-fashioned and pour in some concrete, as soupy as is needful. It can be glassed over when fully cured.

[tropicalescape]

Originally Posted by Benz

Check out the horribly expensive products made by Belzona for that purpose. Might be worth it. Or you could be old-fashioned and pour in some concrete, as soupy as is needful. It can be glassed over when fully cured.

I have a two part Belzona product that I was given and it will fix anything and can be goobed on very thick..The fellow that gave it to me worked at the steam station in Jax beach Fla and he said it would even work on high pressure hot water pipes and under water..good stuff but very expensive..

[minaret]

Originally Posted by daddle

Blocks of lightweight foam, or two part foam. Then laminate over it. Any other way, for fills over a centimeter, is kinda "shadetree" and heavy too.

Nope. Like I said, Chockfast Orange. It's made for this, far from "shade tree". Very light weight, extremely strong and hard. It's been spec'd in some very high end builds I've done. It's often used for potting in engine beds and pour aligning heavy machinery on ships. It's bombproof. Can be poured to a depth of several feet with no exotherm problems. I've filled large keel cavities with it.

chockfast orange - Bing Images


ITW Chockfast Marine | Epoxy Grouts, Adhesives, Repair Products, Coatings

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by minaret

If you need to make a big pour, Chockfast Orange. Not very easily shapeable, but it will not crack and you can make massive pours with it.

I'll second the chock fast. I've personally poured it 4" thick 6" wide and two feet long. There were eight of these blocks poured to align and secure a 2 megawatt generator to a propulsion engine on a ship.

[Blue Crab]

Originally Posted by minaret

Nope. Like I said, Chockfast Orange.

Thanks for this tip and Coosa board.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Blue Crab

Thanks for this tip and Coosa board.

No problem, happy to help. Both are tried and true products, will not fail you. Top shelf stuff.

[daddle]

Originally Posted by minaret

No problem, happy to help. Both are tried and true products, will not fail you. Top shelf stuff.

Too heavy. But hey, most here have heavy boats or just don't care. Difficult to shape after hardening. Expensive. Overkill. I'd use foam. But OP didn't say how thick.

And I would be finished with the project in a day.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by daddle

Too heavy. But hey, most here have heavy boats or just don't care. Difficult to shape after hardening. Expensive. Overkill. I'd use foam. But OP didn't say how thick.

And I would be finished with the project in a day.

Pour foam is open cell and absorbs water. If you have to glass over it you wont be done in a day, or even in a week.I rarely use it for anything. Chockfast you just sand it for prep and pour. The whole point of a self leveling pour is that you don't need to shape it. It's cheaper than using WEST. And it won't crack or fail in the bond when the boat flexes.

[ssanzone]

thanks for the advise.

i am looking into chock fast now. ballon would work okay as would filler other than the expense as i have a lot of area to cover (lots of small sections).

minaret hit the nail on the head with the open cell foams besides they expand WAY too much for anything other than big areas.

my default plan is to sure
Colloidal Silica & 105/slow 205 @ .75: 1 for the self leveling and the 1.5:1 for the 2nd application where more shaping is required.