The key to paint compatibility is like over like. Two part over two part and one part over one part. While you can put one part (enamel etc) over two part, you cannot put two part over one part since the solvents penetrate all the way to the primer and will blister, bubble and lift
. If your boat is old gelcoat
, using an epoxy
primer over it after fairing out scratches and pinholes followed by the two part paint of your choice is fine. There are a few types of two part paints.
polyurethanes ( soft and buffable like Imron) These paints offer great gloss, can be touched up but low chemical resistance.
2. Linear polyurethanes (also buffable like Awlcraft and Proline4800) Great gloss, average hardness, can be touched up and good chemical resistance.
3. Alphilydic (sp) polyurethanes (Awlgrip, Alexseal and Pratt &Lambert) which are harder, not buffable and have superior chemical and abrasion resistance. These paints are impossible to touch up or buff.
I can't give information on the Interlux
or Petit paints as I've not used them. See the data sheets
or talk to a rep.
Preparation is the key to any paint job. Using anything with a lower grit than 800 for final sanding
will show through a spray job, refract light and give a dull, cloudy appearance.
If roll and tipping, it doesn't really matter about sanding
as much and grits down to 400 can be used. I have yet to see a R&T job where the brush strokes don't show....
I cannot stress how important a good epoxy
primer is. I would refuse a job if not allow to use one, no matter how much the owner was willing to pay....