Bow Protection

[bgallinger]

I have a big Mantus anchor which I love, but I'm afraid it will punch through the gelcoat on the bow when I recover the anchor to deck. Does anyone know where to buy a stainless steel guard/plate for the bow?

[skipmac]

What about just buying a sheet of SS and bending it around the stem and trim to fit?

[model 10]

I think all the nice ones you see are custom.

[bgallinger]

I thought of buying a sheet of 20 gauge SS and cutting it myself. The thing is, it would end up looking like I cut it instead of a nice pro custom job. I know these are available for smaller power boats to protect the bow at the roller when trailering.

[Stu Jackson]

Most likely there are metal fabricating places you can find. Go find one or two and go talk to them. That's what I'd do. Good luck.

BTW, I had the same original question for our C34 since I anchor out a lot. After 17 years, no issues, no need for ss.

We have a Rocna, use it at least every other week for a night or two on the hook.

Unless you have a plumb bow, I don't see the need for it.

[bgallinger]

I use a 44# Mantus for my 34ft hunter. I sleep really well while on the hook, but I have punched 2 small holes in the gelcoat.
I'm on the hard in Ft. Pierce and after a month, I still can't get any quotes!
Crazy.

[Cheechako]

Take a piece of cardboard/poster paper. Wrap it around the bow area you want to cover. Cut some off to get close to shape, wrap again and trim to fit the bow and perimeter you want. Better take two pieces of poster paper!
Take your template to a sheet metal shop. Ask them to cut, deburr and polish it. You don't want it too thick or you wont be able to bend it. Probably .025" or so would work.
.025 will dent when the anchor hits it likely, but thick stuff you cant bend. Another option is hard rubber, or strips, or teak or iron bark wood.... depending on where your anchor is hitting. You could braid a salty "beard" out of rope. (line? cordage? haha)

[bgallinger]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Take a piece of cardboard/poster paper. Wrap it around the bow area you want to cover. Cut some off to get close to shape, wrap again and trim to fit the bow and perimeter you want. Better take two pieces of poster paper!
Take your template to a sheet metal shop. Ask them to cut, deburr and polish it. You don't want it too thick or you wont be able to bend it. Probably .025" or so would work.
.025 will dent when the anchor hits it likely, but thick stuff you cant bend. Another option is hard rubber, or strips, or teak or iron bark wood.... depending on where your anchor is hitting. You could braid a salty "beard" out of rope. (line? cordage? haha)

That would work well. I would bend it using a rubber hammer, then secure it to the hull using 4200 adhesive. Also, 3M makes a tough clear coat material which comes in a roll. Same stuff used on Mercedes for bug protection.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by bgallinger

That would work well. I would bend it using a rubber hammer, then secure it to the hull using 4200 adhesive. Also, 3M makes a tough clear coat material which comes in a roll. Same stuff used on Mercedes for bug protection.

Actually... now that you mention this.... make the template and go buy some of the grey rubbery non skid sticky tape! Cut it to the shape you need. I think it comes 4" wide. Easy, removeable etc. A couple 4" strips will likely do it. It comes white and black too!


As an ex sheet metal guy I can tell you , you wont likely get sheet metal to lay down intimate contact with the hull. It would have to be very close and then held in place with the 4200 dries.

I'm liking the adhesive strip more and more... also marine stores sell adhesive Treadmaster rectangles for ladders... great protection!


https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...E4v3oATl9oP4Cw

[Robin3]

how about a stainless steel door kickplate, one of the wider nes cut in half would make 2 panels one for each side of the bow. Holdingit in place whilst the 4200 or whatever sets is the hard bit I think. You can buy bendable pre-shaped bow plates in the UK but very costly about $150 IIRC and don't know how good they are or how hard to fit

[model 10]

If there is much of any compound curve in the area you want to cover, you should give up on a 1 piece metal part. If that is what you want, the people who can do it are fewer and more expensive and it probably means forming and welding.
If you just want to cover the leading edge for a short distance do as suggested. Form up a part from poster board, you can wet it so it will hold it's shape. Take the part around to some guys and see if anyone could hammer one out. They are way more likely to help if you go to them rather than them going out to your boat for such a small project.

[JPA Cate]

In the Brisbane area of Queensland there are a couple of guys who do welding on boats. That sort of business provided us with the sheet s/s we used on this boat before she was painted. After that, Jim got a hard rubber sort of deal for it, still had to be screwed and glued, but works quite well. It is about 5/16" thick PVC matting.

Ann

[bgallinger]

This is what I would like

[Cheechako]

That would be the expensive version!

[model 10]

That would be fun to make. Not that hard really. It looks like a $1000 part.
So, here is how I would make it. It's made from 2 pieces of stainless maybe 16 -18 ga. You should probably go with the thinner because it's easier to work with. Cut each half to the rough shape you want. You are going to need something round to form it over, something heavy. A piece of railroad track or some sch 40 steel pipe might work. Use a dead blow hammer and a body hammer and dollies so you keep the marking down. Shape the parts pretty much perfectly. Sand the surface smooth and trim all the edges then take it to someone with a tig welder. Tell them to use rod and not just melt it together as you will be grinding the weld down. Sand and polish the heck out of it and there you go.