OEM oil filter substitute

[Paul L]

From the Baldwin writeup FlyingCloud referenced, it says that the by-pass comes into play in 2 cases. A clogged filter as already mentioned and unlikely. The other case is at startup with cold oil. A very likely case. If I go to the remote filter, it looks like my choices are 8-12 psi by-pass. The OEM Yanmar appears to be 16psi as is the Wix. The Baldwin equivalent is 20 psi. The OEM filter (and its cross referenced equivalents) won't fit on the remote filter setup. Is there any harm in using an 8-10psi by-pass on an engine spec'c as 16 psi? It seems that you run the engine longer with no oil filtration at startup -- probably fine. I guess the only issue is if somehow the by-pass kicks in after the engine is running for an extended period.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by Paul L

Anyone have technical knowledge about filters?
I'm looking at the specs for filters that I might use with remote filter kit for my Yanmar. Of course, I don't have access to the actual Yanmar specs. The Wix cross-referenced filter 51568 shows a by-pass pressure of 16psi. The FRAM cross-referenced filter PH3593A shows a by-pass pressure of 12psi. The Fram PH16 used on the remote is spec'd as 8-10psi. How critical is the by-pass pressure on an oil filter? What does the by-pass actually do?

Use a remote filter head that will take the Fram PH8A (Ford filter) or Wix 51515, Baldwin B2 etc.. The Fram is 12PSI the WIX is 8-11 PSI. When I did mine I simply matched and/or exceeded the factory filters specs...

In doing this research I learned that not all filters, even when they show as a cross reference, do not have the same specs... Take the 3593A and now cross reference that and begin looking at specs from Wix, Baldwin, Donaldson, Fleetguard etc. and you may likely find they vary even though they show as a "cross reference" the specs vary, even the gasket OD's and ID's can vary slightly on some...

I had a bitch of a time getting oil filter specs from Westerbeke so I cross referenced to Mitsubishi (the block my engine really is) then tracked it down that way. The PH8A (I mostly use a WIX 51515 but have used a and a Baldwin B2 as well. I just found a cross over that exceeded all the specs my engine required.

[MarkSF]

Originally Posted by FlyingCloud1937

Tech tips at Baldwin filters.

Also just to note, at Fisheries Supply in Seattle, they had a display of 4 filters all cross referenced to the same engine. Baldwin, Wix, Frame, and i don't remember the other one. Each filter had a portion of the canister cut away so you could see the internal differences of the filter brands.

What was notable was the pleat count in the Baldwin was about 150% greater then the other filters. Also the seals at the top and the bottom of the canisters were more robust on the Baldwin. As well as a much more rob center tube.

Tech tips from Baldwin Filter for filter construction and micron efficiency,
Filter Performance Testing.

I have no relation to Baldwin, just use their product, after much research into the best filter.

Lloyd

You can find Wix / Baldwin comparisons that show that Wix has more pleats and better construction, too. These comparisons aren't very helpful as construction, and pleat density, seem to vary within brand. What's clear is that they are both highly-respected brands and widely used in fleets.

Wix Filter/NapaGold HD Oil Filter vs Baldwin HD: FleetFilter Secure Online Store - Wix, Fram, LuberFiner, Baldwin

[a64pilot]

Baldwin is an excellent filter, Wix , Purolator are up there with the Baldwin or close anyway.
Supposedly Mobil 1 and K&N are the best and are priced accordingly.
I wouldn't put a Fram on my lawnmower, but that is based on a Consumer reports article years ago, times may have changed.
Bypass will occur when a pressure differential exists above the valves cracking pressure, bypass is actually pretty common, usually on a cold engine start, sometimes the oil is just so thick it bypasses until it thins out a little. Never seen it but it's theoretically possible to clog a filter so bad it will bypass, you want bypass to occur as the alternative is little to no oil flow. Bypass is one good reason to warm an engine before putting it under load
An anti-drainback valve is essential on a filter that is not mounted mounting flange up, it prevents oil drain back after shutdown. Without one every time the engine is started it goes without oil pressure until the filter fills up. If you mount the filter so the mounting flange is up, you don't need an anti-drainback valve, but it doesn't hurt if you have one.
All things being equal a larger filter is preferable, it increases oil capacity, it's filtering media has much more surface area, and is much less likely to bypass.
Often engine "packaging" determines filter size, not what is best for the engine, and often filter manufacturers that manufacture a "factory branded" filter will changed based on what X manufacturer can get cheapest, often the factory filter is a poor filter, not what you wanted to hear I know.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Baldwin is an excellent filter, Wix , Purolator are up there with the Baldwin or close anyway.
Supposedly Mobil 1 and K&N are the best and are priced accordingly.
I wouldn't put a Fram on my lawnmower, but that is based on a Consumer reports article years ago, times may have changed.
.

I have a fair number of customers who have had the basic orange Fram filters installed when I get there. They are the only filters I have ever found empty! This essentially means the anti-drainback valves failed to prevent drain back.. I have had at least 3-4 orange Frams that I have found empty. While not a huge number that is about 8-10% of the orange Frams I have come across....

That said I have never found one of their Tough Guard or better series empty and I do see a fair number of those in use too.......

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

..... When I did mine I simply matched and/or exceeded the factory filters specs...
.....

Fair enough, but which numeric direction is exceeding factory specs for by-pass pressure. If an OEM filter is 16psi, is an 8-10psi filter exceeding or degrading? Not clear to me.

[FlyingCloud1937]

Yanmar 4Lh-HTE Filter Spec from the Yanmar manual.

Originally Posted by FlyingCloud1937

Yanmar 4Lh-HTE Baldwin Look up = B161-S Lube, and BF7534 Fuel/Water Separator Spin-on with Threaded Port .

Lloyd

[a64pilot]

You guys sure the bypass valve is in the filter? I don't think that's very common is it?

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

You guys sure the bypass valve is in the filter? I don't think that's very common is it?

Did you see the link to Fram? It was news to me. Guess I never looked, after tearing one apart that had been tightened by some idiot with a wrench.

Worth a look.

[a64pilot]

What link?
Done some thinking since my post, it's common in the automotive and airplane world for the bypass valve to be part of the oil filter adapter on the engine, but maybe no on smaller marine Diesels, I honestly haven't looked.

If I remember right Fram's have several "issue" from paper end caps on the filter media to an unusually small amount of media, to a rather large micron number of filtration.
I think Mobil 1 and K&N are the same filter, but the K&N has a 1' Nut on the bottom to make it easy to remove and a place to safety wire it like an aircraft filter.

Have you ever seen magnets to put on filter housings? I thought that a bunch of snake oil until I cut open a few and found very fine ferrous metal filings stuck the the filter housing right where the magnet was

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

What link?
Done some thinking since my post, it's common in the automotive and airplane world for the bypass valve to be part of the oil filter adapter on the engine, but maybe no on smaller marine Diesels, I honestly haven't looked.

If I remember right Fram's have several "issue" from paper end caps on the filter media to an unusually small amount of media, to a rather large micron number of filtration.
I think Mobil 1 and K&N are the same filter, but the K&N has a 1' Nut on the bottom to make it easy to remove and a place to safety wire it like an aircraft filter.

Have you ever seen magnets to put on filter housings? I thought that a bunch of snake oil until I cut open a few and found very fine ferrous metal filings stuck the the filter housing right where the magnet was

Go back or just Google Fram. The had put on a link about a ball bearing type valve. As I said, I never saw one. Might just be I hadn't torn one apart in eons.

[Paul L]

Some filters have a by-pass and others don't. The ones with it specify the by-pass opening pressure. The model numbers listed in this thread all have by-pass valves in the filter.

[dohenyboy]

I suppose if you hose-clamp a magnet on your oil filter it would not hurt anything


Sent from an undisclosed location on the high seas or from the lounge chair by the pool, you decide.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by dohenyboy

I suppose if you hose-clamp a magnet on your oil filter it would not hurt anything


Sent from an undisclosed location on the high seas or from the lounge chair by the pool, you decide.

Sounds like a good idea. Remember when some oil pan drain plugs had a magnet. May still?

[zeehag]

i fnd new by removal and comnparison inside the auto parts store, as that is only way i can find filtros here.