Bestevaer 49ST

[sy_iris]

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

Thanks for the feedback.
Just as you are doing, we are planning to use a tablet (an older iPad) to remote control the Zeus from the cockpit. This will be clipped onto a RAM mount attached to one of the poles just forward of the entry. It should have good protection there, yet be easily accessible still.

An iPad by the bed will mirror the Vesper, which should make an excellent anchor alarm.

We will start with this and then modify as necessary. It will be fun playing .

SWL

SWL,
I use the same setup with Zeus and iPad. After trying different mounts I have fallen totally in love with Scanstrut's Rokk series. Simply the best and most rugged mounts there is - biased opinion.
Have a clamp mount at the binnacle, a screw mount on a piece of wood to move around and a suction mount for flat surfaces. The two holders that may cahnged around; one for tablet and one for a phone of some kind (gsm or sat). Take a look.
https://scanstrut.com/products-22/rokk-mini

[Seaworthy Lass]

We have been test sailing and trying out systems.

After a couple of doses of decent wind and heavy rain, conditions at anchor near sunset tonight are close to ideal :

[noelex 77]

Swan neck:

We wanted a boat as waterproof as possible. Luxury afloat is often thought of in terms of how many gadgets are installed, but a dry boat is the first requirement. Surprisingly few boats are dry when offshore sailing. Saltwater down below, especially in bedding or upholstery is the pits. Even with extensive freshwater rinses, the salt seems to remain and attracts moisture and mould in the future.

So we specified no deck penetrations at all in the living areas. For example, the jib track which normally has multiple stainless bolts that rely on sealant, is simply welded in place on our boat.

However, wires need to penetrate the deck to enter the mast for the radar and anchor lights etc. It is also nice to have an exit where additional wires can be easily added. Here we adopted an old, but effective “swan neck”. Traditionally, the swan neck is only attached at one end, but a pipe that is welded at both ends (but with a large hole for the wire exit) is as waterproof, but stronger. This allows the swan neck to be used for other purposes such as halyard tie down or to support the whisker pole.

[Pelagic]

Really nice multifunctional idea!

[s/v Jedi]

Did I miss the tour of all the running rigging?!

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Did I miss the tour of all the running rigging?!

Hi Jedi
Lovely to hear from you.

This is one area that was not modified from KM's "standard" recommendations. Not due to lack of interest in this area , but simply because rope is purchased in reels and specifying small quantities of anything not normally used would increase cost significantly. This is also an item with a relatively short life, so we can alter this as needed in years to come.

A brief summary of running rigging supplied by KM:

All lines used for sheets, topping lift, outhaul, kicker, Walder boom break are double braid polyester.
Headsail halyards single braid dyneema with Antal tracks (brilliant system).
Runners mixed (single braid dyneema almost down to deck level, then double braid poly).
Lifelines are 8mm single braid dyneema.

My rope work additions/modifications:

- A few dozen "high strength" soft shackles made with button knots (the latest made with Acera).

- I added eye splices to the headsail sheets, then used soft shackles to attach these to the clews.

- Ditto for the Walder boom break where it attaches to the toe rail.

- A couple of Bullseye loops with low friction rings have been added to the base of the courtesy flag halyards.

- 20mm Tiptoe Twelve (used primarily in the fishing industry) was chosen for shore lines and I spliced loops at one end.

- Acera was the choice for a series drogue that is work in progress.

- Making the snubber using octoplait nylon and Acera is a task for today.
I will have a play with running the nylon through Bullseye soft shackles with low friction rings where it needs to deviate from a straight line as it runs along the deck. This will also lift it off the deck.

- Fore and aft guys for the headsail pole have yet to be added, as do twings for the headsail sheets plus inboard/outboard control of these. Bullseye soft shackles with low friction rings will be used primarily for these.

- I also still need to make retrieval lines for the runners. The runners are about the only system fitted that does not function at all well.

SWL

[noelex 77]

Todays quiz:

How did we end up with this trace at anchor?

120m (400 feet) of chain in 3m (10 feet) of water!!! Is this a record?

[Juho]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Todays quiz:

How did we end up with this trace at anchor?

120m (400 feet) of chain in 3m (10 feet) of water!!! Is this a record?

Testing the bridle (about 10 times), and checking the length of the chain?

[noelex 77]

Yes, we were marking the anchor chain. Well picked Juho.

If you look closely you can see the pauses in the trace every 10m when we stopped to add the chain markers.

Everyone has their favourite system for marking chain. We have found the flexible solid plastic chain markers to be the best solution (the hollow brittle markers are poor). Even with full time anchoring we only lose one or two over the total chain length each year. We normally mark each division with 4 markers so to replace the odd one that decides it prefers to stay with the mermaids is not much of an issue. They are colour coded red, yellow, green, blue, white, with a different colour every 10m over each 50 metres. We have 120m of chain.

However, they are normally a tight fit, requiring some persuasion with a screwdriver to squeeze between the links. This latest batch was easier to jam into place, so perhaps they will not be as reliable.

We also mark each 10m with a single small rope tie (spectra is the best, but we used some scrap polyester this time). These rope ties are the most durable option we have found, but are hard to see as the chain is running out. They do serve as a permanent mark, so in the worst case where all 4 plastic chain markers are lost we don’t have to remeasure the chain.

[Wotname]

Are you using a chain counter (electronic) as well?

[olaf hart]

Chain markers look good.

I like the ties too, I wonder how they would go as counters, one turn round the link for each 10 m chain?

What knot are you using?

[a64pilot]

Source of chain markers, maybe a link?
Paint I used is not going to cut it, it’s mostly gone now and I am going primarily by feel and they way the scope looks from the bow.

[Juho]

Lots of small things to arrange in a new boat.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Are you using a chain counter (electronic) as well?

No, we have not fitted an electronic counter. They are very convenient, especially for boats where the windlass is often operated from the helm and markers cannot be seen.

We have tried to maximise reliability and minimise the time spent repairing things with a combination of fitting the best (and frequently oversized) equipment, together with leaving out equipment that does not truely earn its keep. Redundancy also helps.

This does not mean we have gone totally minimal. For example, a washing machine, bow thruster and watermaker have been fitted (or will be fitted in the near future) but rather than simply ticking the option box we have considered the reliability versus benefit ratio. This is more important than the cost/benefit ratio.

After 10 years of living full time on a similar boat we have a good idea what equipment is important to us. For many people their choices will be very different so don’t assume our descisions will be right for you, but try not to fit a large number of complex systems. Especially with a larger boat it easy to end up with so many systems that time is spent repairing equipment rather than enjoying new locations.

Away from your home port any repairs are more involved as spare parts are hard to find and if you don’t do the work yourself finding reliable technicians is not always easy.

However, chain counters are cool . If these new chain markers do not stay in place I may look at fitting one.

We have asked KM to install large PVC or aluminium pipes throughout the boat to act as conduit, which makes adding new systems, such as a chain counter (or replacing existing systems) relatively easy.

[darylat8750]

The brand name of the plastic gizmos would be appreciated.

I desire a chain counter but if I cruised warm water with a Mermaid to check the anchor I wouldn't think a chain counter was worth the hassle either.