Originally Posted by Jsta_Rebel
BTW, Has anyone ever pulled the tin off of a household fridge and isolated the compressor / condenser unit to allow for adding proper insulation to the box? I've been thinking that this could be done to make a household refer "keep it's cool better".
You can put your compressor anywhere you like , preferably someplace where you could use some extra heat or where the extra heat can be vented out. You can also put your condenser anywhere you like also . It will be putting out more heat than the compressor and you can even run condenser line through a line that has seawater flowing through it as a liquid cooled condenser. This can all be done with 3/16" 1/4" and 5/16" 3/8" soft copper refrigeration
tubing . You can sweat the joints with a silfos (silver & phosphorous) stick. You need a new liquid line drier and a good vacuuming with a deep vacuum pump before you charge it up.New fridges these days don't use much power these days. A 14 cu ft standard kitchen fridge uses as low as 80 watts and run time is relative to how fast heat leaks
back into your fridge which can also be reduced buy adding closed cell foam insulation to the outer walls and then wrap it with reflective foil bubble wrap with the reflective side facing out. With these tricks you could possibly have your fridge eating 30 watts based on continuous averaging or less once you do the math. The only hard part is finding a good vacuum pump ($400.00)and an acetylene MC tank and torch ($400.00). You could use propane
to charge the fridge. Its a better refrigerant than refrigerant. You can use those cans you buy at the hardware
store to recharge your auto Air-conditioning is mostly propane
.Half a can ( 4 oz ) is plenty for a 14 cu ft fridge. Also the sizes of the tubing is important. Suction could use 3/8" and the condenser lines 3/16". Unfortunately it does take some skill and knowledge to do this kind of work so I recommend you hire someone who is good with a torch so they don't burn your boat