380: Electric WINDLASS only works with engine running

[seelka]

Hello Lagooners,

while not new to this forum, I'm new to posting something too :-)

I bought a 2nd hand 2009 L380 S2, and currently spend my vacation crawling through its innards to understand mainly the chaotic cabling (yes, I read all the manual(s), and NO, it was of no help here...! ;-)

By default, the electric windlass only works if the port engine is running. Has anyone localized the relay (or whatever causes this)?

I would like to have it work with either engine running, or without any (have meanwhile 5 x 220Ah batteries installed).

Thanks in advance
Karsten

PS: will post upgrades once they're completed, in case I can be of help to someone (700 Wp solar, 2 x 300 W airgens, inverter, dish washer,...)

[MarkJ]

Welcome to the forum.

If yours is an ex-charter boat then thats the way Moorings and Sunsail like them rigged so the guests dont flatten the battery.

But it would seem better if it worked on both engines.

Mark

[colemj]

I remember this issue brought up on another thread - there is a solenoid somewhere that controls this, but I don't remember where. Search the forum for that thread.

Mark

[seelka]

Hello again,

no, it's not an ex-charter, but if one looks at the L380's poor standard battery capacity, it makes sense not to allow windlass operation without engine support...

You bet I searched the forum before posting, but it doesn't seem possible to just search the 380 "prefix" (?). And if I search all of "Lagoon", the number of possible matches just goes through the roof.

Guess I have to contact Lagoon in a couple of days --- and post the result.

Regards
Karsten

[Bendecida]

My Leopard is wired similarly: the port engine switch needs to be ON for the windlass to work (the engine does not need to be running).

I have come full circle to thinking this is a good idea, however I had the port engine battery fail, and guess what ... no windlass, even though my house bank (powers the windlass) and stbd engine/electrical system were working like champs.

So: on my to-do list is to have a switched hotwire to the windlass solenoid, so I can still use the windlass in the face of port engine electrical failure. The 00 cable to the windlass solenoid is hot all the time, so I will get my juice from there.

Cheers!

[Wendi]

Mine is the same, must have the port engine one. It makes sense to get a switch put in so you can use the windlass when the engine or battery cannot run. My 380 is an owner's version, not charter, so it is standard on this model I would think.

[seelka]

Hi Wendi,
yep, but in order to put a bridging switch in, one must know the location of that solenoid... Do you happen to know where it is on your owners version?
Regards
Karsten

[Wendi]

Karstan, I have no idea where that solenoid would be. I am still trying to find the dishwasher.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by Wendi

I am still trying to find the dishwasher.

He is usually found in the engine room or at the bar. Usually at the bar, even though he told you he would be in working on the engine all day.

Come on guys - it can't be that difficult to trace the wires from the windlass to find the cutoff solenoid.

If you don't want it working this way at all, simply reconnect it straight to the batteries. Windlass->breaker->windlass solenoid->batteries. I bet in moving the wires you will find the cutoff solenoid.

Mark

[rabbi]

This is a standard setup on all Lagoons I have been on.
In our 410 it was under the salon seat, just left of the fridge. I suppose it will be in the same position on a 380. It should be very near the windlass, in a dry area.


I remember I added a switch to run it without running the engine, but having sold the boat about 2 years ago I can't remember the details.

[monte]

As mentioned above, the port engine switch needs to be on, but the engine doesn't have to be running. I cant remember if the windlass runs off the engine battery or the house bank. The port and starboard engine batteries are connectable in case one is flat (the switch is in the cupboard under the starboard cabin berth). The switch should be left disconnected unless starting from the other battery is required, to avoid flattening both batteries if a fault occurs. Its not a bad system, I wouldn't rush out to change it. Its rare you would ever want to use the windlass without the engine running anyway, usually you are in the process of anchoring, so need the engines to maneuver, back down on the anchor, or leave the anchorage.

[jdisarro]

The solenoid is under the seat to the left of the fridge. screwed to the bulkhrad that seperates the chainlocker and the interior of the boat.
Do You have a Leroy Somer Windlass. I would suspect you do. If that is the case, know that they no longer manufacture this windlass. I just replaced mine with a Lewmar and upgraded to a chain counter at the helm.

[seelka]

Sorry for the delay & thanks a lot for the last comments.

Attached are pics of all three sides of that compartment next to the fridge. Middle one shows the windlass wires, going up and out through a watertight hose (Quick Hector 1000W). I still couldn't find that solenoid, though. Another L380 owner said he had found his in the left engine room (it would have helped if I had the slightest idea of it's appearance or at least size... ;-).

ANYWAY, I confirm the windlass works on batteries if one just switches on the oil pressure alarm of the left engine -- although the beeping drives you nuts, I will give up on this issue here using this workaround.

Last pictures show some more L380 cabling (maybe someone identifies a solenoid among the mess under the left aft cabin bed....?) Whoever says tracing cables "should be easy" on that boat has at best seen one from the outside. There's no numbering or description whatsoever (not even on the impressive fuse panel!), let alone a plan. Cables (mostly all black for the high load types, sometimes of ridiculously huge diameters, compared to their copper cross section) just disappear inaccessibly into the construction for many meters, no way to move them for identification -- and this is not one of the first prototypes, but the 563rd boat they built this way!

Still -- I'd BUY IT AGAIN !! :-)

Best regards
Karsten

[noelex 77]

I have modified a couple of these for owners, but the last was a couple of years ago, so my memory is a bit vague.

If you find the main winch solenoids (which seem to be behind the seat cushion that is just behind the windlass in the smaller Lagoons. In the larger Lagoons they outside in the box just in front of the mast).

You will find the + feed to the solenoid is only active when the port engine ignition is on. It is just a matter a finding a wire that has + feed whenever the anchor winch breaker is on. The main large + feed as it enters the solenoid is ideal. Run a short jumper from thus wire to replace the + wire from the ignition and the problem is solved.

[seelka]

Just read the windlass (QUICK "Hector" on my boat) features an integrated solenoid --- looks like mystery resolved...