Is there a Quality Anchor Swivel?

[NahanniV]

Originally Posted by Cotemar

I do the same exact thing on my Crosby 209A shackels. I always use the Crosby 209A, because they have double the WLL rating for just a few dollars more. After its all cut and drilled their is still room to put a wrench on it to tighten. They are one of the few shackles on the market that mark the size and the WLL rating into there shackle so you always no what you have even years later.

Do you coat the exposed cut steel with something ?
Or will the remaining galvanizing (zinc) protect it ?

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by NahanniV

Do you coat the exposed cut steel with something ?
Or will the remaining galvanizing (zinc) protect it ?

The remaining galvanizing (zinc) does protect it, but I spay on a coat of cold galvanizing paint.

[foggysail]

Originally Posted by daddle

I have never had a swivel. Don't see why I would want one unless perhaps I was permanently anchored somewhere and was too lazy to check the anchor each week or so.

I use a swivel because the anchor chain twisted so badly it was getting to be a problem for the gypsy during retrieval. I think the boat swinging around the anchor was the cause of twisted chain. I still find my chain twisted but not as badly so maybe the swivel is only half doing its job.

[foggysail]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

There is a good test of swivels here.

Connectors

If you are going to use a swivel make it a good quality one (kong have a good reputation) and put a few links of chain between the swivel and anchor to reduce the side load.

I use a galvanized swivel purchased from West Marine for about $50. It is huge!

But back to your recommendation of adding a few links of chain between the swivel and the anchor--- go for it if you can! I cannot. The distance between my gypsy and the anchor with a swivel and a couple of shackles just about allows the anchor to hang like a dangling ...you know what. If I add more chain, the anchor itself would be at risk of hanging off the bow roller. Big anchors have long shanks and mine is an 80# Manson Supreme

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by foggysail

I use a swivel because the anchor chain twisted so badly it was getting to be a problem for the gypsy during retrieval. I think the boat swinging around the anchor was the cause of twisted chain. I still find my chain twisted but not as badly so maybe the swivel is only half doing its job.

There seem to be three reasons that people fit swivels.
1.Sometimes the gypsy will impart a twist to the chain. Cruisers that have experienced this report a swivel only helps marginally.

2. If the boat remains anchored for a long time and swings around the same way the chain can be wound up.
This must be rare, because I have only ever experienced this once, despite anchoring almost 365 days a year. However a rarely anchor in same place for long, and it it may be more of factor in areas of consistent reversing winds ,or currents. Swivels seem to help considerably.

3. If the anchor comes up backwards the swivel makes it easier rotate the right way. I have always found a quick push with a boat hook solves the problem and even a large anchor will rotate without a swivel, but a bit of trial and error will show if there is advantage.

[cfarrar]

It seems that a fourth reason that chain twists is from using a combined rode. The rope section can spiral on the roller as it deploys, especially when using three-strand rope.

[CarlF]

I use a swivel to make sure the anchor enters the roller right side up. It makes anchor raising considerably less stressful and is much kinder to the windlass if you have ananchor that likes to come up backwards.

I also use the Ultra swivel. Not cheap but it is very solidly built with a design that avoids side loading issues.

Ultra Anchors

[Bash]

Originally Posted by Cotemar

May look something like this.

"Popular "bullet" style in-line swivel, separated from the anchor by a few links of chain in order to ensure that forces applied can only ever be along the axis of rotation."

That's the type of system I use, but it won't solve the OP's problem because there's still a shackle on the anchor that can get caught in the roller. I would never attach the swivel directly to the anchor.

[River Cruiser]

Originally Posted by Bash

That's the type of system I use, but it won't solve the OP's problem because there's still a shackle on the anchor that can get caught in the roller. I would never attach the swivel directly to the anchor.

Exactly! I'am going to check out the Kong swivel. I singlehand most of the time & have a remote windlass switch at the upper helm. I'am not concerned with side loads because the current keeps the bow pointing up river. The current is also the reason I use the helm switch instead of the toe switches at the bow. Some people call them a clevis others a shackle they are the same thing & that is what created the problem in the 1st place. If nothing else ill do away with the swivel & use a connector link.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Bash

That's the type of system I use, but it won't solve the OP's problem because there's still a shackle on the anchor that can get caught in the roller. I would never attach the swivel directly to the anchor.

The Kong swivels have proof ratings for side pulls as well as straight pulls. If the side pull rating matches the rest of your ground tackle, then I don't see anything wrong with attaching it directly to your anchor, a role for which it was designed. It has a very smooth bullet shape so very good for going over the bow roller

That being said, I'm glad to be back to using a plain shackle with no swivel at all. I am using the Wichard forged stainless allen key shackle which looks like this:



It doesn't have anything sticking out of it, so it goes over the bow roller quite well also. I use Loctite on the screw for extra security.

[MarkJ]

Could be the fault of the anchor roller.
I have a bit of electrical conduit as a roller. Works fine.

[noelex 77]

Dedicated anchor shackles like this are hard to find. Hence the need often to modify what is available.
Note the smooth contour and the mousing hole that cannot catch on anything. Locktight is great, but there is a reassurance when mousing a shackle that's hard to beat when you sleep, or leave the boat.


I have a couple of these on my boat, but a 20 mm shackle will no longer fit my chain. It's bloody big. Most things on my boat are oversized, but this is serious anchor shackle.

Why is this style of shackle not readily available in more usable sizes?

Even better make it in 10 -12 mm titanium, my guess is the cost would be about $50-$75, but it would last a lifetime and avoid the biannual replacement of a galvanised/ SS shackle.

[Cotemar]

Here is the Titanium stuff
D Shackles

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Cotemar

Here is the Titanium stuff
D Shackles

Thanks for the link a 3/8 inch schakle wit WL of 6000 lb virtually immune to crevice corrosion is appealing. It's a pity they do dont make a smooth design with mousing capability but at $55 it a could be modified and would last a lifetime. One less thing to worry about and maintain.

[Lagoon4us]

Had a mate whose SS shackles were constantly being plated with Zinc from the chain, he had an all chain rode.

After months of delving he considered he should isolate the Electric Anchor Winch both on '+' and '-' poles, since then no more build up of Zinc on his 'non-zinc' bits.

Seems the chain was an anode.

Cheers