Cutting 1X19 Life Line Wire

[Snore]

After analyzing this for a few months, I am replacing the life lines on my boat with 1X19 SS wire.

The question is --- If I wrap the SS wire with electrical tape and use a Dremel with a carborundum cut-off wheel will I get a clean cut? The heat of the cut should not alter anything in the SS. Is that a valid assumption?

Yes I know a wire cutter is another way to go, but a decent cutter will set me back $80 or more. And because the shrouds are a thicker material, when I am done the cutter will have no use on the boat. Whereas a new wheel for each cut will be under a $1 a cut.

In theory the wheel should work. But...

Anyone have experience doing this?

Thanks

[skipmac]

This is how I cut my wire. The heat generated might in theory effect the wire but only a very short section on the very ends of each strand if at all.

What kind of end fittings are you using? Since you're cutting the wire yourself I assume Sta-Lok, Hayn or similar DIY type? If that's the case, the cut end will be beyond the cone in the fitting base and even more not a concern.

[Snore]

Using the sun or fitting for the life lines.

Is there a more cost efficient alternative?


Sent from my iPhone- please forgive autocorrect errors.

[model 10]

Using a cut off wheel leaves a bur on the end of each wire. It doesn't matter with regular swedged fittings so much but with mechanical fittings it drives you crazy.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Why 1x19 instead of something a bit more flexible? Wire I mean.

[Snore]

I went with 1x19 since that is what appeared to be the norm. Candidly for a life line I don't see the need for a lot of flex.

But I will listen to alternative 7/16" wires. What do you suggest?

Regarding burs- if your wrap the rope to keep the strands together, if the blade is new for each cut and you don't push the blade through--- how bad are they?


Sent from my iPhone- please forgive autocorrect errors.

[tkeithlu]

Access may not be easy, but the best way I've found of cutting cable is with a plasma cutter. It melts those sharp ends almost like burning nylon rope.

[svHyLyte]

I used tightly locked wire ties on each side of the cut, which was made with a Dremel tool (tape gums up the wheel). Once the wire is cut, use a very fine grinding drum to polish the ends/edges of the wire for a moment or two. I've us the approach from 1/4 to 5/8" wire with reasonably good success.

FWIW...

[JoelVannordel]

Years ago I replace all the rigging on a new to me Hunter 37C. Great experience. I actually built a quick jig. Take a small piece of 2x4, when looking at the end cut take a skill saw and cut a stripe the 4" way length wise, then take your drill and put a hole the size of your wire cross ways through the slot you just made. Now you can put your wire through the hole and use a hack saw to cut the wire, it worked perfectly for many cuts and fits perfectly in the swagless fittings.

Fast and quick.

Joel

[artisanmach]

I have been thinking about using my 1x19 old but still serviceable standing rigging for my lifelines.

[Stumble]

I have always found a hacksaw with the right blades to work far easier than a cut off wheel for wire. Doesn't take much longer either.

[Mithril Bham]

I am currently doing the same thing. Borrowing wire cutters from friend but you might look at renting some from a hardware store or rigger for a day. Seems to be the way to go.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Snore

Using the sun or fitting for the life lines.

Is there a more cost efficient alternative?


Sent from my iPhone- please forgive autocorrect errors.

Have not used the Suncor fittings myself. Assume they work something like the Sta-Loks. I did order a couple of Suncor shackles that have rusted in about a year in fresh water.

Have not had a big problem with burrs using a Dremel if cut slowly and carefully. Any burrs very small and easily cleaned off with a small file.

Also don't see an issue with 1X19 for lifelines if yours are like mine IE just a slight curve from bow to stern

[Mithril Bham]

Ever thought about Dyneema?

[leftbrainstuff]

Wrap with elec tape and use a good 24 tooth hacksaw blade. A starret blade for example. Two blades will do a dozen lines easy.

I use a wood block with a hole drilled and a slot for the blade.

I prefer to avoid using cutoff tools due to the potential for heat induced microstructural changes. I wont bore you with the details but a background in aerospace welding (as a welder) and a masters of engineering in materials welding and joining means I dont like the potential for carbide migration and accelerated corrosion from friction cutoff methods. These are not approved for load certification methods so are not applicable for standing rigging IMHO. Microstructural analysis shows why this is so.

A dremel will not have the grunt to do the job.

It takes only a few seconds by hacksaw. Hint remove the paint from the blade first.

Your biggest problem will be to find good ss wire. There is so much crap on the market that it's getting very difficult to determine the provenance of wire.

I recently rerigged with Alps wire sourced from Korea and Staloks. I requested batch certification data but have no way of knowing how good it is. Based on some early observations I'm starting my own parallel corrosion and exposure test. The Staloks I love.

I wont trust swaged fittings after watching a few riggers and their old worn equipment. I have good experience with swaging back in the 90s but that was with well maintained machines and a companion test program.

I consider Staloks to have the following advantages / disadvantages over swaging:

1) more consistent when built by me. (than riggers / machines I dont know)
2) similar price overall
3) should be assembled with sealant to exclude moisture for lower fittings. (not mentioned in oem assembly procedure)
4) allow rigging to be replaced line by line. Which was more convenient for us in water.

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